Tamiya F104 Pro!
#9166
Has anyone used the new Tamiya tires (1031, 1032) on the F104 Pro? What changes did you make from using the other Tamiya F1 tires? Trying to prepare for the TCS race. Thanks.
#9169
I recently purchased a used f104 chassis. T disassembled the chassis and reassembled it, installed the x1 top deck conversion (54331), the 53901 TRF damper, and the high traction t-bar. With the adjusting ring turned to the bottom of the shock I am getting noticeable rear pod droop without anything else being installed in the car. I followed the kit instructions that came with the conversion kit, TRF damper, and the t-bar. Any help or advice??
Also any pictures of the metal upright set (54357) installed on your car??
Also any pictures of the metal upright set (54357) installed on your car??
#9170
Tech Apprentice
I recently purchased a used f104 chassis. T disassembled the chassis and reassembled it, installed the x1 top deck conversion (54331), the 53901 TRF damper, and the high traction t-bar. With the adjusting ring turned to the bottom of the shock I am getting noticeable rear pod droop without anything else being installed in the car. I followed the kit instructions that came with the conversion kit, TRF damper, and the t-bar. Any help or advice??
Also any pictures of the metal upright set (54357) installed on your car??
Also any pictures of the metal upright set (54357) installed on your car??
If you dont have extra o-rings just use spacer or a piece of fuel tubing etc.
-Pate
#9171
The instructions do differ a little bit, the TRF damper instructions have the black o-ring (ba19) at the end of the shaft outside the cylinder up against V5, not inside the cylinder like the X1 instructions. I also see I may have forgotten a part. I will disassemble and double check in the morning and repost my findings and such. I downloaded the X1 instructions and will use those when reassembling.
#9172
I rebuilt the shock and put the BA19 o-ring on the rod inside of the shock like the X1 kit directions say. The TRF damper instructions have you install this o-ring on the rod outside of the cylinder before you attach V5. I removed this and with the shock adjuster turned all the way against the stop, I have no rear pod droop at all, which I believe is the way it should be. Thanks for posting those instructions fastvee.
#9173
Tech Apprentice
No problem.
I do like some droop , but it is easy to adjust with the #V5.
Now put softest spring you can find on that shock and go drive it.
(I love the gold spring http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2364 ) , if you dont have it and drive on asphalt I suggest you get one. I use 25-30wt oil with that spring on med/low grip asphalt
I do like some droop , but it is easy to adjust with the #V5.
Now put softest spring you can find on that shock and go drive it.
(I love the gold spring http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2364 ) , if you dont have it and drive on asphalt I suggest you get one. I use 25-30wt oil with that spring on med/low grip asphalt
#9174
Tech Addict
iTrader: (14)
A couple of questions
I am trying to understand the possible adjustments for the front end on my X1. I have watched the the youtube vids from rc F1 blog guy and that has helped. I am messing around with front droop and from what I can see there seems to be and inherent amount of droop in the front upright area. Just wondering what the benefits/drawbacks are to preload the spring.
I ran the car for the first time last week at a TCS race. I found out that I like to break the C5 plate. Seems the original one lasted longer than the replacements. The original looks like a fiber reinforced piece, the others look to be plastic only. Just wondering what other peoples findings have been. Is it helpful to get the aluminum upgrade parts for the motor pod area? better durability?
The car is box stock except for the adjustable uprights. Tamiya (54357)
I ran the car for the first time last week at a TCS race. I found out that I like to break the C5 plate. Seems the original one lasted longer than the replacements. The original looks like a fiber reinforced piece, the others look to be plastic only. Just wondering what other peoples findings have been. Is it helpful to get the aluminum upgrade parts for the motor pod area? better durability?
The car is box stock except for the adjustable uprights. Tamiya (54357)
#9175
Can anyone give me tips on how to install the metal uprights on the f104 or any pictures of how they have theirs installed??
#9176
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I am trying to understand the possible adjustments for the front end on my X1. I have watched the the youtube vids from rc F1 blog guy and that has helped. I am messing around with front droop and from what I can see there seems to be and inherent amount of droop in the front upright area. Just wondering what the benefits/drawbacks are to preload the spring.
I ran the car for the first time last week at a TCS race. I found out that I like to break the C5 plate. Seems the original one lasted longer than the replacements. The original looks like a fiber reinforced piece, the others look to be plastic only. Just wondering what other peoples findings have been. Is it helpful to get the aluminum upgrade parts for the motor pod area? better durability?
I ran the car for the first time last week at a TCS race. I found out that I like to break the C5 plate. Seems the original one lasted longer than the replacements. The original looks like a fiber reinforced piece, the others look to be plastic only. Just wondering what other peoples findings have been. Is it helpful to get the aluminum upgrade parts for the motor pod area? better durability?
With the lower pod plate, you are better off with plastic, it's cheaper. Both types will break, the graphite piece probably easier. keep a spare with you.
#9177
Tech Elite
#9178
Thanks Sydewynder, that's how I have mine setup.
#9179
Ok another question.
I have the 3x35mm Titan Turnbuckle (53528) installed in place of the standard rods on the f104. I see Tamiya makes 2 turnbuckle wrenches, 53602 & 42122, which would be the proper one to use with the turnbuckles I have??
Could you suggest a different brand wrench for the turnbuckles if you don't like Tamiya??
I have the 3x35mm Titan Turnbuckle (53528) installed in place of the standard rods on the f104. I see Tamiya makes 2 turnbuckle wrenches, 53602 & 42122, which would be the proper one to use with the turnbuckles I have??
Could you suggest a different brand wrench for the turnbuckles if you don't like Tamiya??
#9180