6LikesSchumacher Mi4
05-07-2012, 04:46 PM
#3526
Tech Addict
05-07-2012, 05:26 PM
#3527
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
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plus the darn plane tickets keep changing in price.
3 weeks ago...550....two days 332...today 460....WTF...
sucks...
i should have bought it two days ago...
05-07-2012, 10:19 PM
#3528
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Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
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,,
05-08-2012, 08:11 AM
#3529
Tech Addict
05-08-2012, 08:28 AM
#3530
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
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will be good to share info...
if you guys have any questions...feel free to ask...
i'll do my best to help out.
Not sure how traction will be out there...so will probably take two cars...one setup for high grip and other setup for med to low grip.
05-08-2012, 10:14 AM
#3531
Grip is good, see you there.
Rich, no box yet,
Rich, no box yet,
05-08-2012, 11:27 AM
#3532
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
What's going on....
The kit is very easy to build.
YouTube "Mi4 or Mi3" there should be a few videos on how to build diffs and shocks...
diffs
- will say the hardest part is putting on the fence (outside part to hold belt in).
The trick is to take an exacto knife and scrape the inner edge off the fence..then it just snaps into place.
(do the same for the pulley fence)...same process in the MI3 thru Mi4CXL
-don't forget to follow the instruction when building the diff...the lock grub screw is super important.
shocks
-they go together very easy. just choose the correct o-ring. Red or blue are fine. the clear is going to leak.
butter smooth.
bearings
-i just oiled mine right from the box (no cleaning). still on my original set.
spool
Use the black plastic outdrives in the front and Grey soft in the rear. Greys are softer and when used in the front it bind the bones eventually.
No modifications needed to make the car work..just find the right setup for your driving style.
the rest is very easy...same as building others.
*Suggest* get a few extra spur gears...other brand spur gear do not fit the car.
layout electronics with the motor in the most forward position...this will give you the largest window for spur and pinion combination. There is a lot of room, double what most other brands have.
A few pages back I uploaded a setup (for CLX but on CX sheet) I've been using and there a number of others on the Schumacher website.
The kit is very easy to build.
YouTube "Mi4 or Mi3" there should be a few videos on how to build diffs and shocks...
diffs
- will say the hardest part is putting on the fence (outside part to hold belt in).
The trick is to take an exacto knife and scrape the inner edge off the fence..then it just snaps into place.
(do the same for the pulley fence)...same process in the MI3 thru Mi4CXL
-don't forget to follow the instruction when building the diff...the lock grub screw is super important.
shocks
-they go together very easy. just choose the correct o-ring. Red or blue are fine. the clear is going to leak.
butter smooth.
bearings
-i just oiled mine right from the box (no cleaning). still on my original set.
spool
Use the black plastic outdrives in the front and Grey soft in the rear. Greys are softer and when used in the front it bind the bones eventually.
No modifications needed to make the car work..just find the right setup for your driving style.
the rest is very easy...same as building others.
*Suggest* get a few extra spur gears...other brand spur gear do not fit the car.
layout electronics with the motor in the most forward position...this will give you the largest window for spur and pinion combination. There is a lot of room, double what most other brands have.
A few pages back I uploaded a setup (for CLX but on CX sheet) I've been using and there a number of others on the Schumacher website.
I'll have to redo the fences on the diff. it seems that they aren't straight and there is very little space for the belt (almost exact size).
My shocks only came with the clear o-ring. Is it okay to run as-is or should I replace them now?
How important is the bearing oiling? They felt nice and smooth so I just put em right in. They did have an oily coating on them.
Also is there a strength difference between the 64pitch and 48 pitch gears? I figure the 48 would be stronger since there is more tooth to grab. I will be running in the mod class with a 7.5 on a large outdoor track.
05-08-2012, 12:11 PM
#3533
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
I'll have to redo the fences on the diff. it seems that they aren't straight and there is very little space for the belt (almost exact size).
once they snap in it could be a bit difficult to take off...
My shocks only came with the clear o-ring. Is it okay to run as-is or should I replace them now?
You can run the clear..but change them if they do leak..very cheap...the Associated Red orings work..as well as a few other brands.
How important is the bearing oiling? They felt nice and smooth so I just put em right in. They did have an oily coating on them.
they do come oiled...or at it feels like it...but I just put a few drops just in case.
Also is there a strength difference between the 64pitch and 48 pitch gears? I figure the 48 would be stronger since there is more tooth to grab. I will be running in the mod class with a 7.5 on a large outdoor track.
Easier to gear with 64 pitch...but 48 pitch is a bit more hardier and I feel the braking is a bit more effective with 48 pitch...but it's quite a bit louder with 48p.
either way is fine..comes down to personnel preference.
once they snap in it could be a bit difficult to take off...
My shocks only came with the clear o-ring. Is it okay to run as-is or should I replace them now?
You can run the clear..but change them if they do leak..very cheap...the Associated Red orings work..as well as a few other brands.
How important is the bearing oiling? They felt nice and smooth so I just put em right in. They did have an oily coating on them.
they do come oiled...or at it feels like it...but I just put a few drops just in case.
Also is there a strength difference between the 64pitch and 48 pitch gears? I figure the 48 would be stronger since there is more tooth to grab. I will be running in the mod class with a 7.5 on a large outdoor track.
Easier to gear with 64 pitch...but 48 pitch is a bit more hardier and I feel the braking is a bit more effective with 48 pitch...but it's quite a bit louder with 48p.
either way is fine..comes down to personnel preference.
05-08-2012, 01:02 PM
#3534
Tech Addict
sent over an email to Mark to see if I can get a shirt or two....
will be good to share info...
if you guys have any questions...feel free to ask...
i'll do my best to help out.
Not sure how traction will be out there...so will probably take two cars...one setup for high grip and other setup for med to low grip.
will be good to share info...
if you guys have any questions...feel free to ask...
i'll do my best to help out.
Not sure how traction will be out there...so will probably take two cars...one setup for high grip and other setup for med to low grip.
05-10-2012, 07:14 PM
#3535
apparently theres some sort of HEE HAW marathon happening on Kentucky TV as my car has been sitting there since the 2nd. absolute non sense going on over there.
05-10-2012, 09:55 PM
#3536
this is going to keep me from doing the reedy...
http://www.cbp.gov/linkhandler/cgov/...llbearings.pdf
http://www.cbp.gov/linkhandler/cgov/...llbearings.pdf
05-10-2012, 11:56 PM
#3537
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
this is going to keep me from doing the reedy...
http://www.cbp.gov/linkhandler/cgov/...llbearings.pdf
http://www.cbp.gov/linkhandler/cgov/...llbearings.pdf
Not sure what the pdf is for...
What section or paragraph says/states I can't check in a car?
Don't have time to check all those pages.
05-11-2012, 11:55 AM
#3538
It was suppose to be a link to home land security form for bearing compliance. Yes a form for ceramic bearing I ordered. The whole shipment is being held,
05-11-2012, 08:16 PM
#3539
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
The kit bearings are pretty darn good....
Ceramics placed in-line would be nice to have...
On the outer parts not such a good idea.
See u guys at the Reedy race.
Good luck to all.
05-11-2012, 08:34 PM
#3540
I've had every car since the Mi3, I've always used the ceramics thoughout except for the outter front wheels, there is a difference.
see you at Reedy, I'll try and remember to bring a banner for you guys to sit under/by. I'll be doing pit b duty.
and in case theres any confusion,
Mark and Schmacher have been top notch in all of this doing their best to get my shipment freed up. the issue has been with UPS/customs.
see you at Reedy, I'll try and remember to bring a banner for you guys to sit under/by. I'll be doing pit b duty.
and in case theres any confusion,
Mark and Schmacher have been top notch in all of this doing their best to get my shipment freed up. the issue has been with UPS/customs.