Schumacher Mi4
#3556
Tech Elite

iTrader: (101)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,123
Trader Rating: 101 (100%+)

guys, i went to Nor-Cal today, for practice prior to the Reedy next week.
Traction was so off the hook that it felt like we were racing on carpet. the car felt like it was slowing as it went around the corners, (which it was doing). i couldnt get the car to work for a while. what did work was going to stiffer springs. i ended the day with associated red springs up front(22 lbs), and associated brass colored springs, (19 lbs) on the rear. 45 wt oil, 3 hole pistons in the shocks all ar1
Any other suggestions for the race next week?
Traction was so off the hook that it felt like we were racing on carpet. the car felt like it was slowing as it went around the corners, (which it was doing). i couldnt get the car to work for a while. what did work was going to stiffer springs. i ended the day with associated red springs up front(22 lbs), and associated brass colored springs, (19 lbs) on the rear. 45 wt oil, 3 hole pistons in the shocks all ar1
Any other suggestions for the race next week?
I ended up putting on Tamiya 3 hole pistons
42 1/2 oil in the front, 35 in the rear..
4 dot plate in the rear.
Smokem plate front middle hole
Optional roll center in the back, slammed all the way down (3mm shims)
1mm applied to inner ball studs (all)
Car rotated very well on power thru turns..very snappy initial turn-in
So hopefully armed with two cars with different setups will help.
#3557
Tech Addict

Hipster, i sent you a P/M
Rich
Rich
#3558

Hello everyone! I am finally upgrading from my original MI4 which will be handed down to my girlfriend!
I just ordered the new MI4CXL and am expecting it to be here soon. Any tips when building a new kit? I've built tamiya basic kits before (TT01, TA05) but not a "racing" quality kit when new. What are the do's and dont's? any modifications?
One thing a local racer reccommended was to take all of the bearings, let them sit in rubbing alcohol to remove the grease, and then add a light oil to them. wrong? right?

One thing a local racer reccommended was to take all of the bearings, let them sit in rubbing alcohol to remove the grease, and then add a light oil to them. wrong? right?
#3559

hey there.
just finished another blog entry that can be found at http://hofaaa.wordpress.com
have fun reading!
just finished another blog entry that can be found at http://hofaaa.wordpress.com
have fun reading!
#3560
Tech Elite

iTrader: (101)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,123
Trader Rating: 101 (100%+)
#3561
Tech Addict
#3562
Tech Addict
#3563
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (67)

I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
thanks appreciate your help
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
thanks appreciate your help

#3564
Tech Addict

I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
thanks appreciate your help
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
thanks appreciate your help

#3565
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)

Hey guys, I have run my new CXL for a few weekends now and I am getting the car closer to my liking. My problem is the car is still pretty slow compared to my original mi4.
The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.
My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?
Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.
Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?
The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.
My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?
Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.
Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?

#3566
Tech Addict

Hey guys, I have run my new CXL for a few weekends now and I am getting the car closer to my liking. My problem is the car is still pretty slow compared to my original mi4.
The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.
My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?
Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.
Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?
The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.
My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?
Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.
Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?

to get a good idea of where you are at with the car, we really need to know what your setup is. send us that first, then we can set you down the right path.
Rich
#3567
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)

sounds like the car may be "too planted". you may want to try and loosen up the rear end a bit. remember, "loose is fast". try putting 1 or 2 mm of spacers under the rear camber link plate. that will leesen it up a bit. or try stiffer rear springs, or thicker shock oil in the rear.
to get a good idea of where you are at with the car, we really need to know what your setup is. send us that first, then we can set you down the right path.
Rich
to get a good idea of where you are at with the car, we really need to know what your setup is. send us that first, then we can set you down the right path.
Rich
My car has been built to the box stock set up according to the manual. Everything is box stock minus camber which is 2* all around.
The only other changes I have made were adding a 1mm shim to the rear arms for more toe. local racer said that would help the car rotate more. I also upped the shocks to red front and green rears. I had done this since it is what was on my older car. I may switch back.
By adding the spacer to the camber link plate, what does it do? As in, how does it effect the car?
#3568
Tech Addict

Hi Rich,
My car has been built to the box stock set up according to the manual. Everything is box stock minus camber which is 2* all around.
The only other changes I have made were adding a 1mm shim to the rear arms for more toe. local racer said that would help the car rotate more. I also upped the shocks to red front and green rears. I had done this since it is what was on my older car. I may switch back.
By adding the spacer to the camber link plate, what does it do? As in, how does it effect the car?
My car has been built to the box stock set up according to the manual. Everything is box stock minus camber which is 2* all around.
The only other changes I have made were adding a 1mm shim to the rear arms for more toe. local racer said that would help the car rotate more. I also upped the shocks to red front and green rears. I had done this since it is what was on my older car. I may switch back.
By adding the spacer to the camber link plate, what does it do? As in, how does it effect the car?
They are not blessed with the sunny weather like we are.
Try different things. At the Reedy race, I finished with no spacers under the front camberlink plate, 42.5 oil, 3 hole pistons up front. 1 1/2 mm of spacers on the steering rod link, (the ackerman link), 2 1/2 mm spacers on the rear of the front wishbones mount, 1 1/2 on the front of the wishbone mount, (this moves the front arms forward a bit). Also remember at the Reedy this year we had different types of grip on different days, due to the tire of choice, and the weather.
In the back I had 3 degrees of rear toe, a 1/2 mm spacer between the rear hub ands the wheel, and 35 wt oil, w/3 hole pistons. blue springs front, wht springs rear. I measured the droop on the blocks, and had 5 mm on the front, and 4 1/2 in the back.
For warmer weather and different tires, I would use something completely different. You just have to try different things, and 1 thing at a time, so that you will know what each change to the car does.
Rich
#3569
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (67)

Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
And I do buy my parts from AMain

cheers
Last edited by Taman; 06-06-2012 at 10:12 PM.
#3570
Tech Elite

iTrader: (101)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,123
Trader Rating: 101 (100%+)

Perhaps a pebble/screw or something was caught in the rotation of the pulley. Fence falling off and a pulley all mashed up prob could not be caused by too many things.
Wish had a better answer but just guessing, hard to find a definite answer on it