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Schumacher Mi4

Old 05-19-2012, 11:39 PM
  #3556  
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
guys, i went to Nor-Cal today, for practice prior to the Reedy next week.

Traction was so off the hook that it felt like we were racing on carpet. the car felt like it was slowing as it went around the corners, (which it was doing). i couldnt get the car to work for a while. what did work was going to stiffer springs. i ended the day with associated red springs up front(22 lbs), and associated brass colored springs, (19 lbs) on the rear. 45 wt oil, 3 hole pistons in the shocks all ar1
Any other suggestions for the race next week?
I took today as a prep day....
I ended up putting on Tamiya 3 hole pistons
42 1/2 oil in the front, 35 in the rear..
4 dot plate in the rear.
Smokem plate front middle hole
Optional roll center in the back, slammed all the way down (3mm shims)
1mm applied to inner ball studs (all)
Car rotated very well on power thru turns..very snappy initial turn-in

So hopefully armed with two cars with different setups will help.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:54 AM
  #3557  
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Hipster, i sent you a P/M

Rich
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:27 AM
  #3558  
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Originally Posted by Double D Donuts View Post
Hello everyone! I am finally upgrading from my original MI4 which will be handed down to my girlfriend! I just ordered the new MI4CXL and am expecting it to be here soon. Any tips when building a new kit? I've built tamiya basic kits before (TT01, TA05) but not a "racing" quality kit when new. What are the do's and dont's? any modifications?

One thing a local racer reccommended was to take all of the bearings, let them sit in rubbing alcohol to remove the grease, and then add a light oil to them. wrong? right?
one more tip, the rear a-arm, when fully compressed with the shock attached, may rub on the inside rear wheel rims,,,,just file that section down on the a-arm a lil bit so the shock can fully compress and the wheel doesnt rub--
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:11 AM
  #3559  
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hey there.

just finished another blog entry that can be found at http://hofaaa.wordpress.com

have fun reading!
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:00 PM
  #3560  
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
Hipster, i sent you a P/M

Rich
Just wanted to thank Rich. For sharing ideas at the Reedy race. But next time hope the weather is better.

Last edited by olhipster1; 06-02-2012 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
Just wanted to thank Rich. But b

For sharing ideas at the Reedy race.
Hey hipster, no worries....i enjoyed the racing and the shared ideas also. thank you for your help, my car has never been better.

thanks again,

rich
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:42 PM
  #3562  
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
Hey hipster, no worries....i enjoyed the racing and the shared ideas also. thank you for your help, my car has never been better.

thanks again,

rich
i also want to thank skypilot, hit tips were spot on!

thank you ritchie.

Rich
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:19 AM
  #3563  
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I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.

Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?

Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.

thanks appreciate your help
Attached Thumbnails Schumacher Mi4-pully.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-chassis.jpg  
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:09 AM
  #3564  
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.

Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?

Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.

thanks appreciate your help
Contact A-Main hobbies in Chico, CA. They sell the replacement parts you need. it wont set you back too bad.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:14 AM
  #3565  
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Hey guys, I have run my new CXL for a few weekends now and I am getting the car closer to my liking. My problem is the car is still pretty slow compared to my original mi4.

The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.

My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?

Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.

Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:25 PM
  #3566  
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Originally Posted by Double D Donuts View Post
Hey guys, I have run my new CXL for a few weekends now and I am getting the car closer to my liking. My problem is the car is still pretty slow compared to my original mi4.

The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.

My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?

Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.

Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?
sounds like the car may be "too planted". you may want to try and loosen up the rear end a bit. remember, "loose is fast". try putting 1 or 2 mm of spacers under the rear camber link plate. that will leesen it up a bit. or try stiffer rear springs, or thicker shock oil in the rear.

to get a good idea of where you are at with the car, we really need to know what your setup is. send us that first, then we can set you down the right path.

Rich
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:59 AM
  #3567  
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
sounds like the car may be "too planted". you may want to try and loosen up the rear end a bit. remember, "loose is fast". try putting 1 or 2 mm of spacers under the rear camber link plate. that will leesen it up a bit. or try stiffer rear springs, or thicker shock oil in the rear.

to get a good idea of where you are at with the car, we really need to know what your setup is. send us that first, then we can set you down the right path.

Rich
Hi Rich,

My car has been built to the box stock set up according to the manual. Everything is box stock minus camber which is 2* all around.

The only other changes I have made were adding a 1mm shim to the rear arms for more toe. local racer said that would help the car rotate more. I also upped the shocks to red front and green rears. I had done this since it is what was on my older car. I may switch back.

By adding the spacer to the camber link plate, what does it do? As in, how does it effect the car?
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:15 AM
  #3568  
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Originally Posted by Double D Donuts View Post
Hi Rich,

My car has been built to the box stock set up according to the manual. Everything is box stock minus camber which is 2* all around.

The only other changes I have made were adding a 1mm shim to the rear arms for more toe. local racer said that would help the car rotate more. I also upped the shocks to red front and green rears. I had done this since it is what was on my older car. I may switch back.

By adding the spacer to the camber link plate, what does it do? As in, how does it effect the car?
spacers under the camber link plate will give you a bit less grip at that end of the car. Something else you may want to try is the carpet top deck. That takes away some of the flex, which also takes away some of the grip. You have to remember, that in Europe, they are ALWAYS trying to find more grip. They race in the rain, other stuff like that. In my old 1999 set up book, I remember seeing a setup for wet tarmack, covered with wet leaves.

They are not blessed with the sunny weather like we are.

Try different things. At the Reedy race, I finished with no spacers under the front camberlink plate, 42.5 oil, 3 hole pistons up front. 1 1/2 mm of spacers on the steering rod link, (the ackerman link), 2 1/2 mm spacers on the rear of the front wishbones mount, 1 1/2 on the front of the wishbone mount, (this moves the front arms forward a bit). Also remember at the Reedy this year we had different types of grip on different days, due to the tire of choice, and the weather.

In the back I had 3 degrees of rear toe, a 1/2 mm spacer between the rear hub ands the wheel, and 35 wt oil, w/3 hole pistons. blue springs front, wht springs rear. I measured the droop on the blocks, and had 5 mm on the front, and 4 1/2 in the back.
For warmer weather and different tires, I would use something completely different. You just have to try different things, and 1 thing at a time, so that you will know what each change to the car does.

Rich
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:35 PM
  #3569  
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?

Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
Hi thanks for the answer but am trying to work out why it happened.

And I do buy my parts from AMain Just bought the Spec-R Gear diff.

cheers

Last edited by Taman; 06-06-2012 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
Hi thanks for the answer but am trying to work out why it happened.

cheers
I would doubt it was an overtightened belt...the belt would have snap off with that much pressure or seriously overheated the motor.

Perhaps a pebble/screw or something was caught in the rotation of the pulley. Fence falling off and a pulley all mashed up prob could not be caused by too many things.

Wish had a better answer but just guessing, hard to find a definite answer on it
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