Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

It's not cut and dry like that. Sometimes it's good and other times it's not. It really depends on the situation. If it's bumpy, then some flex is good because the suspension can't process the vertical forces fast enough from undulations. If it's super smooth then the stiffer the chassis, the better because the car will do what you want it to since you have a fixed suspension geometry from the arms, springs and dampers that are designed to make the car behave in a specified way.

asw7576

Absolutely.

Try 3mm first. If your car doesn't get grippy feeling, then you might forget to use 4mm chassis.

Bing

I won't use 3 racing stuff if i were you. I also not suggest using Kawahara chassis either. I saw their 4mm chassis bended after crash.
mugen chassis u won't notice much difference using 3mm or 4mm chassis. The setting and performance won't be totally off. Just little tune.


3mm
pro: flex, light, better grip cornering
con: easily tweak after crash, not stable straight line.

4mm
pro: stable on straight, no tweak after crash
con: less grip cornering, heavier

tantalus007

iTrader: (17)

Hi guys… just acquired a used super slightly used mtx4 and the car is awesome… I would just like to know what are the necessary upgrades needed for this car… as of the moment I can say that it has the front cvd’s and alloy wheel hexes… anything else??? are the 3racing or kawahara parts any good???

Am currently using the old configuration of the belt tensioner, although I’ve read on how to revise it… will this affect the handling of the car and how… sorry I a asked a dumb question… am totally new to running nitro…

Thanks and cheers to everyone…

P.S. Congrats to Team Mugen for capturing the 2006 worlds title…

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

I would just try getting rid or weight on any car.

I added the TI pivot balls, TI screws, skyline line lightened main shaft and rear carbon fiber attachment for the camberlink (gives you more camber setting options.)

Bing

Hops you need for mtx-4:
Front CVD, Teflon Brake Pad, 4mm rear shock tower, Alu wheel hub, Ti steering rod, Ti turn buckle rod, Ti pivot balls, ventilate brake disk, alu engine mount, T0270 side belt, Steel 1st and 2nd pinion gear, and Kawahara rear swaybar set. mugen 4mm chassis is optional.

jaykay

I use the cvds at all tires, 4mm rear shock tower, Alu wheel hub, Ti steering rod, Ti turn buckle rod, ventilate brake disk, , Steel 1st and 2nd pinion gear, mugen 4mm chassis, teflon brake pads, rubber belts (front, side, rear), ti screw set

why swaybar?

wallyedmonds

the 3 racing 1 is like the kanack chassis where its not milled out the 1mm is to the botom of the chassis and its the stiffest the mugen and kawahara chassis are not as stiff,they add the 1mm on top of the chassis,,now with a stiff chassis the car setup is the setup what i mean is the shocks do what there sapost to do now with a thiner chassis the chassis is more part of the setup when you go fast in a turn it will flex more than if you go into a turn slow.a thicker chassis is faster and more consistent you have to play with setup. and with high grip tracks yes you use harder tires but you keep the shocks soft.on more bumpy tracks you thickin up the oil and you may use harder springs but realy you have to try diff things for your driving and your tracks you will find the right setup.but dont go nuts on hopups that you dont need.tho they can look realy cool.this is all i got kawahara rear sways,alloy hexs,ti ball ends,the thick rear shock stay,kfatory rear shaft just cuz the mugen one got old and slopy.3racing cluch bell,kawahara 1st and 2nd gear holders.and rubber belts.front cvds,and as for the breaks i just put on the teflon pads,and a 1peace motor mount,oh and from my mtx3 i used the ti screws and the ti steering rods

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

MTX-4 Knowledge Base: click here

Bing

Easier to adjust. Save lots times.

get Kawahara rear swaybar set, but dont' buy Kawahara front swaybar set.
JP front swaybar set is better.

jaykay

ok, thats was also my first idea.

Yome

Hey guys,

i just installed a sirio S12 STI on my MTX4. but i can't get the carbuartor to slide to fully open without hitting either the fuel tank of the carbon upperdeck.

Do you guys have the same problem ? If so, how did you solve this ?

Regards,
Youri

Slo-MTX4

iTrader: (1)

You either have to dremel the top deck or take a bit off the bottom of the ball.

asw7576

Throttle Knob ( on the engine's throttle ) is moveable 360 degree.

wallyedmonds

mine fit fine just got to fined the right angle it will sort of touch the tank but no probs with that and the motor wasent in the car long enuff anyways cuz the crank broke again.