JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

The box setup is pretty spot on and is a very good starting point.

Stock shock oils are 35 front and 30 rear with #55 pistons front and #56 pistons rear. I like to run 32.5 wt oil in the rear, but that is the only change from stock in that department.

The 2.3 sway bars are a good starting point.

Here are a couple links so you can see what setups I run personally.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7433392-post7336.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7433399-post7337.html

sluggo_sx8

iTrader: (5)

I really like proline tires but there wings plan out suck. I only run the stock ones now but I have a few buddies that use the vp pros and they out last anything I have seen so far. I would say they are the best bang for your buck. Do they help in anyway I am not sure, I think that is a personal pref.

lennybigblock

me too i have the same problem with my truggy, how to be sure to order new axles shaft this year.

Sein

iTrader: (7)

I like the stock one too and I think I'll just change the color of my stock one.

Orph3o

Hi Guys,
I got the RTR (I was missing a good controler and a start box so it was the way to go...).
I have sold the 454 engine, and I am planning on getting either the Werks b5 or the OS .25XZ (P).

I am selling the engine, but keeping the stock exhaust.

Can you tell me if this exhaust will be decent with those engines? I am planning on getting a JP2/3, but I also have to get decent servos and an engine warmer (I live in Canada, and breakin the engine early in the season means low temps).
I would like to delay a bit (if feasible) the acquisition of the exhaust.

I plan on racing (sportsman, not competition) and I am wondering if those engines are good enough. I am a bit worried about having a .21 in such a big truggy, even though everyone seem to run on .21
Also I had a really great time with OS in the past (Revo) but I have never seen a Werks.

Thanks for your answers!

rider313

iTrader: (94)

The B5 is more than enough for this truggy. The best pipe for that mill is the werks 2013. I would get some good servos. JUst look on ppl's signatures and see what the are running to find that out.

Have you had nitro engines in the past? or is this your first?

If it is your first nitro engine. I would stick with the losi 454 and learn how to tune it first. then once you have that down i would upgrade. So you dont fry a $200 mill learning to tune.

nitroal

iTrader: (46)

get the b5 and use the money you save to buy a werks pipe. these motors have awsome runtime and power. you won't be dissappointed.

Racinpig

iTrader: (13)

I've ran the B5 with a jp3 and a 2013. The jp3 was good but the 2013 really wakes it up.

lennybigblock

try this; http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-System-T-2050

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=19750

low cost

Orph3o

Thanks for all the replies!
I have had nitros before, used Traxxxas, OS and Picco.

Two questions now for the werks.
Recommended "basic" gear ratio?
Best break-in method? (I am used to heat cycle, but could try something else).

As I have never been in the truggy category (I am and will forever be a fan of Monster Trucks, Revo being my fav.) I am extremely surprised to see how Werks seems to be the place to go, at such a reasonnable price point.
I have had a great experience with OS (all .21) and that's why I was thinking about this...
If it goes well, I may have my revo hosting a Werks when my current mill decides to give up.

Regarding Servos, do you think a 200 ounces is enough for steering? I have a brushless futaba in my my Revo Platinum and it has been more than enough for my needs. I see all you guys running 300+ (Hitec 5950++) but as I still have to learn the linkage on the T 2, I don't want to burn it because of user malfunction

I have just subscribed to this forum, and while I feel most of you have concerns I'll probably never have (yes you technical racers I am still learning a lot.
Can't wait to roll this truggy!

I have already torn it appart and rebuilt (to learn how it's made (and retightening everything...). I have used the Race roller setup sheet as I read it was a great basic setting.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

B5 + 2013 = Plain and Simple Awesomeness

deadmancourt

iTrader: (11)

+1...they look awesome...im gonna start running the wings soon but i want to get a wrap for them 1st

deadmancourt

iTrader: (11)

+1....or if its not your first rodeo...any of the $200 engines nowadays will get er done period

Orph3o

Hi guys,

I was trying to remove the TRT 454 engine when I realized it was Imperial...
Went to the store, got some but I am stuck on the clutch... I can't remove it.
All my other cars are 100% metric, this is a sad day
However, I have noticed that the RTR is a mix bag of Metric and Imperial... very confusing.

Can someone tell me what imperial size I would need to remove the Losi Clutch? very very small black hex. I tried to remove the clutch "nut" while holding the flywheel with a plier with no luck.


Bonus question: Can I replace the imperial parts by Metric ones? I am just unsure if only the heads are imperials...

Thanks.

builtb16a

iTrader: (1)

the hex bolt to remove the clutch bell is a 5/64. once the bell comes off you can either remove the clutch shoes, or remove the complete flywheel assembly.

the black hex bolts that hold the shoe pins (4ea) into the flywheel is a 1/16th.
the black nut (1ea) that holds the flywheel on the collet is a 8MM.