fleggasaurus

Hi Guy's

This past weekend I was really struggling with rear end traction. Coming into corners and out of them the ass end of my truggy was always stepping out and being a handful to drive. I know it wasn't my diff oil setup as it was happening both on power and off power and definitely wasn't struggling to put the power down as on a few occasions was wheelstanding out of the corners with my worked 25.

My thought is that it's the anti squat and toe angles. Do you want to go to a bigger anti squat (say 1 ups in adj. rear braces) or do you want to be going the other way and have the numbers down????

Thanks in advance.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

LMAO

Nothin like an OS Speed.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Current setup please.

fleggasaurus

7000f 10 000c and 7000r

camber linkages
middle on front tower and inside hole closest to shock tower on fron hubs
bottom of rear tower and second hole in on rear hub from tower.
Rear hub in the middle

suspension all std pistons, springs and oils in std locations
Std droop and ride height with 2 deg camber all round.

Front end is the standard toe and antisquat plates but the rear is adjustable with 0's in the front and 0's in the rear.

Thanks for the help.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

You're too high on the rear diff. I would try 7/10/2 or 7/10/3 for diff oils. I would also switch to 1's up in the forward plate of the rear end. That will give you 3 degrees of anti-squat which should help you. Those are the two things that stand out to me. The standard setup is usually a pretty good neutral starting point. Never hurts to go back to that and start over when you're having issues. I would think most of your problem is coming from the 7k rear diff fluid.

Taxman

iTrader: (1)

I am having the opposite while on or off the gas. Front end push really bad. I cant get it to turn. I am going to Drakes setup for a big race this weekend and see what happens. The only thing I dont know about is the adjustable pivots with 1 up or down or neutral. What is this?

I hope it helps it turn, I went about 3 laps down in a 20 minute main to a really fast local VP sponsored guy. One of Steve Slaydens team mates I think. Most of it was due to my slow corner speed trying to stay off the outside walls.

Greg B

iTrader: (68)

Check your servo-saver and make sure she is cranked down pretty tight.
The stock setup seems to let the truck rotate very well.

Taxman

iTrader: (1)

I will check that. The other thing I thought about was a weak stock steering servo. I can see in the high speed corner we have that the momentum of the truck tries to pull the front wheels straight. At least it looks that way to me. So I have a 7955tg that goes in this week too. I am thinking the servo because it wasnt doing this when I first got it. And it is progressivly getting worse.

siv06

You might also try tightning the little grubscrews on the rear roll bar - I was amazed how much quicker it rotated with this little tweak

fleggasaurus

Thanks very much for the helpful info. I had a sponsored local losi guy give me his truggy setup and his diff oil setup was 10 000f, 20 000c and 10 000r and I thought that was a bit drastic so thought I would try 7 10 7. From my understanding of what your saying, Is the 7000 in the rear diff putting too much power down and then giving me too much drive out of the corners making if feel like a rwd only truggy and causing my issues???? I'm running a 25 and it was near over the top power on the weekend and the driver was struggling to keep it under control so I take it a lighter rear diff setup would definitely help????

Sein

iTrader: (7)

What tires are you running? If you are running the stock losi rtr tires then that would be the reason you are pushing. Those tire are a very hard compound. Try getting a set of M3 VTR Holeshots or AKA city blocks/I beams. Even better, find out what that guy is running that was lapping you and run those. They make a world of a difference.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

That's that stock servo I told you about. They just can't cut it in a truggy. You really need something with a lot of torque for the truggy. 7955 is a great choice.

You don't need to worry about the adjustable pivots/inserts. The settings he runs on the adjustable pivots are pretty much what comes out of the box on the truck's stock fixed pivot blocks. Put that setup on there, get that servo in there and tighten down your servo saver a bit. 

Like Sein said you should definitely look into the tire situation. I don't know if you're running box stock tires or not, but if you are, that's part of your problem.

Yep that's pretty much what's happening. With 7k in the rear you are getting a lot more rear drive than you want. When you get on the power it is washing you out. You want the rear end to follow the front around which is one reason for the lighter rear diff fluid.

The other thing is clutch setup. It sounds like you just have too much motor. I know that seems radical to some people, but it can happen where you just have too much. Clutch setup is a great way to help settle down a punchy engine. You can go softer on the springs to allow the clutch to engage earlier which will cut down on the wheel spin on power. You can also try going to a heavier flywheel(Losi steel for example) which will have a similar effect. I think too much power combined with a couple setup issues is causing all of your problems. What clutch setup are you running?

alexrckid

anyone have experience with this new front drive shaft...??
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...sal-Driveshaft

Sein

iTrader: (7)

I have it installed and I noticed a little better steering as far as turn in, it turns in sharper, if that makes sense. I like it; it also seem to get better wear then the original one.

alexrckid

gotcha...sounds good.....thanks.