EAT DIRT

Yes you can

morgoth

I had a chance to my car out this afternoon!

I reconverted my electric car to nitro. After my exam I wanted to take a break from studying and go to the backyard track of the friend.

The car has the short chassis on it and the new battery tray. The track 50% dirt and 50% astroturf (which bummer for find a right setup, it's always give and take). It wasn't dry, but not too wet either. Perfect conditions!

I was running 450/400 with the 8.0 front and 8.5 rear spring, full droop. And almost the shortest wheelbase (because my Tekno V4 is a +5mm chassis).
I drove my car a few laps and it's totally different than electric, while I drove that setup last with the tekno chassis and electric motor. The nitro car felt a lot lighter and more nimble. But it was also bouncing more over the bumps.

Anyway, after a few laps, I didn't like the handling of the car. It wasn't stable at all and I had too much traction roll. And oh, wheelies :/ Went too a longer wheelbase (0.5mm shim in the back, rest in the front) and reduced the droop. The car was a lot better with these adjustments. I didn't bring other spring/swaybars with me. Just some basic tools, but that car was drivable now.

I wanted to test the car with the battery in the back also, but the car was actually going well, that I wanted to get more drivetime. I'll do the back to back testing an other time. After my exams probably
The car was very good and easy to drive. There's a long sweeper at the end of the straight and my electric car was kinda unpredictable and hard to control at the end. The nitro car was so much better in that turn, much easier to drive and more predictable.

Sideshow Bob

although you have HV savox, i use normal 1258/1256 digital ones, with a transponder and run 6.6V 1600 Life pack which takes me all the way through our 45min main no problem, so you should be fine i think

3DRCRACER

iTrader: (1)

I recently (6 months ago) went to lipo from life and nimh packs and this is what I found. IF your standard voltage servos are questionable or old. lipo voltage will probably take them down eventually. I have had good luck with 7955's in the past on life and nimh, but lipo has resulted in more failures with them. As they are failing I am switching to the HV servos. If your servos are new I feel they will not last as long as if they were run on standard voltage. I have a 7955 I am still running on lipo from day one and 3 that died at various intervals. Beware, you are taking a risk.

Make sure your receiver will handle the extra voltage.

As far as run time, the lipo you mention will have no problems with running 45 minutes. I have ran them for much longer than that in practice sessions.

mikal

iTrader: (34)

The servos I mentioned are Hitec. The 7940 is a high voltage servo so I am not really worried about that one. However, I am going to buy a new steering servo and based on my previous post am I better off with the Hitec 7955 or the Hitec 7950? I would prefer the 7955 because it is 30 dollars cheaper, but I want something that will last (preferably more than 1-2 seasons). Also, the receiver I will use is a spektrum SR3100. Which would be the more ideal set-up? By the responses given, I assume I do not need a regulator, correct?

Thanks for the help,
Mike

morgoth

Have you tough about the Hitec 7945TH as a steering servo? It's slightly faster than a 7955TG and deliver more than enough torque for a buggy. On 7.4V it's a killer servo!

Pin2Win

iTrader: (19)

I run only run Hitec. I run 7955's and 7954's on lipo direct. I've had all of them fail. I set all my end points well short of full throw and still had them fail......8lbs buggy traveling 35+ miles an hour puts a lot of strain on them. it happens. Good thing about Hitec is their warranty best in the bizz if you ask me. I do agree running strait lipo is hard on servos HV or not you are running a componet at is max.

mikal

iTrader: (34)

Am I safer with a regulator? If so, which one for the battery previously mentioned?

Thanks, Mike

morgoth

My other car has normal servo's in them so I'm still doubting about running LiFe so I don't need a regulator in that car. I guess the servo's will last longer if I don't go lipo?
How long did you use them before they failed? I ran my Hitec 7954SH for a year in my elektro mbx6 and it's still in great shape imo. No play or weird noises.

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

anyone will do the smaller the better and be sure to go the highest amp regulater available, 5A is the go.
cheers

chad bradley

I use a 6v/5amp protek regulator (for some reason the link says product not found)? I hope they keep making it, its super small and I've used the same one the past year and half in my buggies.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13509

and this is the reciever battery
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Balancer-Plug

chad bradley

Man I miss going to the Farm (except for the orange dirt you can never get off your socks, lol).

yes here is the setup sheet

plus2ss

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, what's a good set of replacement bearings? The stock bearings are great, but they don't quite freespin. Im looking for an upgrade. Maybe the advantage ceramics? Or should i just clean and relube the stockers with oil intsead of grease?
Oh, and Chad, You the man!

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

i use these, worked great for me: http://www.4chobbysupply.com/servlet...Bearing/Detail

croracer

iTrader: (12)

AVID BEARINGS, you can't beat them $1 bearings. Clutch bell bearings last easily a gal, and wheel bearings can go longer.

or TKO bearings are priced cheap as well.