NEW XRAY T2
04-02-2006, 06:07 PM
#4246
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Thanks. I also forgot to mention it will accommodate stock and BMI chassis. You can contact me at [email protected] for more info.
04-02-2006, 06:26 PM
#4247
Originally Posted by Get 'N' Faster!
hey guys does anybody know where you can find the solid top deck for the t2. if so let me know thanx.
TeamPickles.com
04-02-2006, 06:53 PM
#4248
Originally Posted by Art Jensen
Here is a little something I have been working on for awhile. I’ve had the idea for a few years and I think the T2 can really benefit from it. It’s a squaring fixture designed to perfectly square the T2 front to rear, side to side, and corner to corner...... Let me know what you guys think.
04-02-2006, 07:09 PM
#4249
Originally Posted by killingtime
I like it! The only suggestion I can think of right now is to make the edges a bit wider. If you run outdoors on asphalt and scuff off a little of the bottom edge of the chassis, your product won't work. But if it's contact patch was wider, it would still work.
maybe your not getting the concept the whole bottom of the chassis lays flat in this thing. so it doesnt matter if the edges of the chassis is scuffed or not.
04-02-2006, 07:17 PM
#4250
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I see your point. I actually do run outdoors and have the usual wear on the left rear of the chassis. It is not a problem do to the hold down spots. They are pretty far in. The chassis would have to be worn to the point of needing to be replaced for this to be a problem. Also, I only put the ledge in the very front and back so you can see that the area under the chassis in the middle lays perfectly flat. The minate you see this thing and hold it in your hand, bolt the car up to it, you will see how far off what we thought was straight is. I used it today on Jarrod Scott and Steve McNichols' car. They loved it.
04-02-2006, 08:48 PM
#4252
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I am just trying to start with the T2 and possibly the RDX. The thing is that the T2 is a button head top plate car. This tool will help this car with tweak issues more than a car with a counter sunk top plate. The screws on a counter sunk top plate car kind of locate everything where it wants to being that it drops down into the same spot evry time. I am going to test next on the RDX. If it makes a difference in squaring up the car, I will make them. If it does not, I don't want to produce something that doesn't do anything but waste peoples' money. I will see what the demand is for this, and if sales support it and it works, I will make it for more cars.
One other thing I would like to mention, The use of 3x8 counter sunk screws along with counter sunk washers works better than the o.e. buttonhead screws. It increases the surface area of the fastener and the screws pinch down on the graphite instead of rubbing against it every time you loosen and re tighten. I got the hardware from Schumacher USA (Take Off brand). Thanks for the interest guys.
One other thing I would like to mention, The use of 3x8 counter sunk screws along with counter sunk washers works better than the o.e. buttonhead screws. It increases the surface area of the fastener and the screws pinch down on the graphite instead of rubbing against it every time you loosen and re tighten. I got the hardware from Schumacher USA (Take Off brand). Thanks for the interest guys.
04-02-2006, 08:57 PM
#4253
Any out door setups for a t2?
04-02-2006, 09:08 PM
#4254
Originally Posted by Art Jensen
I see your point. I actually do run outdoors and have the usual wear on the left rear of the chassis. It is not a problem do to the hold down spots. They are pretty far in. The chassis would have to be worn to the point of needing to be replaced for this to be a problem. Also, I only put the ledge in the very front and back so you can see that the area under the chassis in the middle lays perfectly flat. The minate you see this thing and hold it in your hand, bolt the car up to it, you will see how far off what we thought was straight is. I used it today on Jarrod Scott and Steve McNichols' car. They loved it.
I just want to make sure your succesful with this... it'll be for everyones benefit.
04-02-2006, 09:13 PM
#4255
Originally Posted by goop
maybe your not getting the concept the whole bottom of the chassis lays flat in this thing. so it doesnt matter if the edges of the chassis is scuffed or not.
04-02-2006, 09:16 PM
#4256
Originally Posted by stiltskin
. I think its called "cogging effect". The other issue with the larger spur is that it moves the motor forward more on the chassis. Not good, not bad, just different. Depends on what you want. Hope that helps.
Wouldn’t that be “Flywheel effect”? Cogging effect occurs with electric motors.
Last edited by Michal101; 04-02-2006 at 09:26 PM. Reason: humor needed
04-03-2006, 11:07 AM
#4257
Originally Posted by Art Jensen
Here is a little something I have been working on for awhile. I’ve had the idea for a few years and I think the T2 can really benefit from it. It’s a squaring fixture designed to perfectly square the T2 front to rear, side to side, and corner to corner. I designed it to accommodate screws going all the way through the bottom. The battery taping area, the lower bell crank area,and the servo mounting screw sections are pocketed so the chassis can rest perfectly flat with no obstruction. Just take a completely assembled T2 ready to go on the track and bolt it to the fixture using the 4 weight screw holes on the chassis corners. Then loosen all the top plate, bulkhead, diff cover, etc, etc, screws and re-tighten them. It works very well. It has a 3mm ledge around the outside so you can use it as a car stand. The unit shown is just the prototype. The production version will have 3-inch long thumbscrews to fasten the car to the plate. Let me know what you guys think.
what's the predicted price for this. it's going to make it easier and faster to take the tweak out of the car,if i'm not mistaken.
04-03-2006, 11:12 AM
#4258
Art JensenTorque Plate
Originally Posted by Art Jensen
I see your point. I actually do run outdoors and have the usual wear on the left rear of the chassis. It is not a problem do to the hold down spots. They are pretty far in. The chassis would have to be worn to the point of needing to be replaced for this to be a problem. Also, I only put the ledge in the very front and back so you can see that the area under the chassis in the middle lays perfectly flat. The minate you see this thing and hold it in your hand, bolt the car up to it, you will see how far off what we thought was straight is. I used it today on Jarrod Scott and Steve McNichols' car. They loved it.
I would have to say that this is a fantastic pit tool. When I had my car ready to go, the last thing I would do was put it in the torque plate and everything flattens out perfectly. There was no hoping that I tightened down the screws the right way so I didn't have to even think about! It was balanced on the tweak station every time as a result and it was one less thing to worry about. What a product, can't wait for production!
04-03-2006, 11:16 AM
#4259
Originally Posted by HRCRACER123
Nexus.. I got a nice pair at my Local sears Hardware store..
Superfly.. You have to file down that one part on the rear aluminum bulkhead that hangs down. It has been done successfully.
I have a question. Last night I was at the track and borrowed those chassis balancing things. My friend with the same car had to add 10 grams of weight on the battery side for it to be balanced.
When we did mine I needed like 30 grams of weight on the other side where the motor is. Its just weird to see that big of a diffrence. I mean I do have smaller electronics than him but that is a big diffrence. And when I look at all the pro drivers set-ups they add weight on the battery side to. Anyone have any idea's?Where have you guys put your weights?
Superfly.. You have to file down that one part on the rear aluminum bulkhead that hangs down. It has been done successfully.
I have a question. Last night I was at the track and borrowed those chassis balancing things. My friend with the same car had to add 10 grams of weight on the battery side for it to be balanced.
When we did mine I needed like 30 grams of weight on the other side where the motor is. Its just weird to see that big of a diffrence. I mean I do have smaller electronics than him but that is a big diffrence. And when I look at all the pro drivers set-ups they add weight on the battery side to. Anyone have any idea's?Where have you guys put your weights?
Harold, You have a smaller servo for starters....
