Originally Posted by EDWARD2003

Has anyone had issues with the 2013-2014 differentials "gumming up" like slightly locking up after a run? Or even after a fresh build?

I've recently built three differentials with fresh orings, greased properly, oil (mugen differential oil). All meticulously done. When sitting at a cool state the differential is smooth and free moving. However, a couple days ago I was testing my motors boost settings and decided to hold one of the tires to act as a bit of a load for the motor. After a few burps of the throttle, I noticed the differential would start to gum up feeling. It's only when the differential is worked hard.

I decided to take apart and rebuild the differential again. I thought I might have been too conservative with the grease on the outdrives and orings. Once again, under a cool state it's butter smooth, then once I burp the throttle while holding the tire it would do it again.

Do you think the differential is building up some internal pressure when it's getting warm? Thus putting pressure on the outdrives?

What are your thoughts?

I build and measure the weights of each differential. Currently at 1,000 mugen with 15.0g on digital scales.

Or should I just stoping doing burping the throttle while holding the tire? Lol

Originally Posted by rhodopsine

I think you are just experiencing thermal expansion. When you blip the throttle, you make the differential work way more and faster than it would under normal situation. Friction makes heat build up, therefore the "sticky" feeling. I wouldn't worry about it. If it were really a problem, you'd see it pop on the forums quite a bit, and while yokomo's diff aren't the best in the business, they're still pretty good.

Martin Paradis

Originally Posted by BruceCampbell

Does anyone have any pics or knowledge about when tyres have gone past or are going past there grip points

what should a tyre look like when it still has good grip or rubber left. Jst need some sort of gauge so I can try and get this understeer lack of traction under control

Originally Posted by Bar

Speed 6, try removing the front motor mount screws underneath the chassis and put a long grub screw to secure the mount so it has no chance of coming loose in a heavy impact, Tamiya often run there cars like this with the 419, they have options by just removing screws though

Originally Posted by BruceCampbell

Front motor mount screws? not sure I understand what u mean here

Originally Posted by jimjav

rc_square24

front
shocks, 450 cst, 3 holes 1.1, 20% rebound, pink spring, black bladder.
standard toe blocks, camber 1.5, toe out 1, droop 6mm (under block)
No roll center shims, short camber links
0.5 bumper steer, 1 mm ackerman
Ride height 5.2mm
Spool, 4 degree c hubs

Rear
shocks, 450 cst, 3 holes 1.1, 20% rebound, blue spring, black bladder.
standard toe blocks, camber 1.5, toe out 3, droop 5mm (under block)
No roll center shims, short camber links
3000 cst in the rear diff
Ride height 5.4mm

Body, mazda 6 speed
Tires, sorex 28 with black insert
All plastic parts are grafite, and I am using roche dcj in front
Esc Muchmore ETS, Motor MuchMore 17.5T timming 20, Ratio 4.5


Thanks

Originally Posted by buzz777

Would go for a slightly different setup. 500 shock oil all round (no bumps on carpet) and if you feel you need front to be less aggressive go for Blue spring fronts as well.

Front and rear 0.5mm or even 1mm spacer under camber both ends.

Rear camber 2 degrees

5mm front ride height

5.2mm rear ride height

4.5 rear droop

Originally Posted by Glarke

Heya guys, looking for a bit of help. My first weekend with a touring car the other week and I was running setup as described below.
Car was very pointy into the corners (so much so that for the first lap or two I would clip apexes), and a little pushy on the way out.
What should I be looking to do in order to calm the steering down on the way in and gain a little from mid corner out?

Originally Posted by EDWARD2003

Has anyone had issues with the 2013-2014 differentials "gumming up" like slightly locking up after a run? Or even after a fresh build?

I've recently built three differentials with fresh orings, greased properly, oil (mugen differential oil). All meticulously done. When sitting at a cool state the differential is smooth and free moving. However, a couple days ago I was testing my motors boost settings and decided to hold one of the tires to act as a bit of a load for the motor. After a few burps of the throttle, I noticed the differential would start to gum up feeling. It's only when the differential is worked hard.

I decided to take apart and rebuild the differential again. I thought I might have been too conservative with the grease on the outdrives and orings. Once again, under a cool state it's butter smooth, then once I burp the throttle while holding the tire it would do it again.

Do you think the differential is building up some internal pressure when it's getting warm? Thus putting pressure on the outdrives?

What are your thoughts?

I build and measure the weights of each differential. Currently at 1,000 mugen with 15.0g on digital scales.

Or should I just stoping doing burping the throttle while holding the tire? Lol