BruceCampbell

HPI Silvers?

5.5 read and 5.0 front was ride height sorry

Whats the reason re ESC tape and not too much and ESC punch levels?



Main issue a bit of lift off oversteer on corner exit or understeer mid corner if put the throttle on... assuming this transfer the weight to rear a bit more and thus reduces steering mid corner

evochick

iTrader: (5)

sorry these ones, its generally the go to spring.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/hpi-sho...hpi6543/p31205

with ride height, it depends on how bumpy the track is, but generally only a 0.2mm difference front and rear, this should help with the weight transfer oversteer off throttle, even try level if its still lift off oversteer assuming your droops are ok.

Sorry with the esc tape, I found I had overdone it in the past effecting flex a little, not huge, but a difference,

As for punch over gearing, easy to change and doesn't effect terminal speed.

BruceCampbell

Cheers

I was also looking at Low profile Brushless servos, over low pro digital servos as they seem smoother and more efficient with the electrics

HYPA

iTrader: (3)

I can get a good deal on a BD7 RS2. Is it worth spending the extra for the RS3 or not? Are there any essential upgrades for the RS2?

Bar

iTrader: (1)

Brushless Servo's aren't as smooth as Coreless digital ones, check out the Highest range of low profile servo's they are amazing

Salkin

+1, we're using the Highest DLP650 servo and it is the best we've had.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

2014 or 2015?

Which is the better of the two models? Why?

Bar

iTrader: (1)

the 15, biggest improvement is the 15 diff, the battery hold down system is awesome as well, other than that it's not that different, just little bits

BruceCampbell

so after hrs of frustration trying to get better traction can someone shed some light on

Rear Roll centre lowering. I read in off road book more angle lower roll centre, but in other book, flatter or 1mm shim on the wheel hub end...so im a bit confused. or is offroad V onroad different in relation to roll centre

Body shell LTR-c or Mazda

Tyre type for outdoor asphalt, low grip.

essentially the BD7 2015 I have drives like a pig, even after many hours or trying different things. Just witnessed another BD7 run 13-14 sec laps a local hobby store, so it aint the car just the setup. running 13.5 blinky mode.. after any ideas before she gets shelved and or sold...

Worst87

Hi Bruce,

to lower your rear roll center you can:
a) put MORE shims under the upper inner link
b) put LESS shims under the upper outer link (rear hub)
c) put LESS shims under the lower inner suspension pick-up points

But i would highly recommend to ask your local heroes for some help.

The LTC-R seems to be the fastest body, simply because it generates a lot of front downforce. If you are a rookie or intermediate driver the Mazda 6 is the better choice.

The most thing you need is more knowledge about identifying car handling and then translating this into the correct setup changes.

You could also post your setup here and explain what changes you want in handling.
If it "drives like a pig" i dont know how to help.

BTW: If it has not enough steering then lowering your rear roll center will increase your problem

BruceCampbell

so that sort go's againsn't what I was told today..roll center wise less shims on inner link more shims on outer link (Wheel hub) to lower roll center, get more roll and better rear end traction...

Basically it under steers like crazy go into corners, thru corners and then sorta out as well.

Te ass end does tend to be tail happy a bit as well, but that calmed down a little.

Suggestion was made take everything back to stock settings as per a setup sheet start again.. but I rekon ive tried that a few times with not much gain.

Yes car setup, knowledge and maintenance is the biggest issue

BruceCampbell

I will add it was a local guy that pointed several issues with the car after seeing theres hoot around 4-5secs a lap quicker.. we tried a few things, but overall lap times didn't really improve..or car get a great deal of improvement

beidle99

iTrader: (9)

in case anyone is interested in a 2013 for 17.5 or VTA i'm selling mine
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...d7-2013-a.html

Bar

iTrader: (1)

Speed 6, try removing the front motor mount screws underneath the chassis and put a long grub screw to secure the mount so it has no chance of coming loose in a heavy impact, Tamiya often run there cars like this with the 419, they have options by just removing screws though

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Has anyone had issues with the 2013-2014 differentials "gumming up" like slightly locking up after a run? Or even after a fresh build?

I've recently built three differentials with fresh orings, greased properly, oil (mugen differential oil). All meticulously done. When sitting at a cool state the differential is smooth and free moving. However, a couple days ago I was testing my motors boost settings and decided to hold one of the tires to act as a bit of a load for the motor. After a few burps of the throttle, I noticed the differential would start to gum up feeling. It's only when the differential is worked hard.

I decided to take apart and rebuild the differential again. I thought I might have been too conservative with the grease on the outdrives and orings. Once again, under a cool state it's butter smooth, then once I burp the throttle while holding the tire it would do it again.

Do you think the differential is building up some internal pressure when it's getting warm? Thus putting pressure on the outdrives?

What are your thoughts?

I build and measure the weights of each differential. Currently at 1,000 mugen with 15.0g on digital scales.

Or should I just stoping doing burping the throttle while holding the tire? Lol