XCRAZYBENX

Thanks alot for the info EVOCHICK!! I raced USGT for the first time Friday. Foudn that we had to lower the FDR then what i was told. We started putting on smaller pinion gears. But that info is good to know. I was looking around liek crazy for my buddy.

luda

iTrader: (6)

Anyone know of a battery holder/tape solution like what is used on the BD7 15 but for the 14? Is it possible to fit the 15 battery holder on the 14 without anything more than creation of a hole or two?

Thanks!

evochick

iTrader: (5)

hmmm, your going to have to drill the holes for it on a 14 chassis for it to fit, on the upside you can buy the parts as a kit (B7-11815)

But on my spare 14 car I just installed the rubber battery tape (B7-118RS) and prefer this to the holders on my 15 car. Its just easier to tape when your in a hurry and stops any battery movement.

luda

iTrader: (6)

It's the tape under the chassis that erks me the most

evochick

iTrader: (5)

Each to their own I suppose, drill away I say, wont be hard to install.
I cant say I have ever lost a battery from cutting through tape on a chassis though.

luda

iTrader: (6)

Lost one on the weekend first time out with the car.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

New front DCJs from Yokomo

broløs

Hey everyone,

What length are you adjusting the shocks to? I'm currently do as the manual says (63,5mm) but what effect will it have to make them shorter or longer?

Thanks for help

nwagner

iTrader: (6)

On paper, I would think you shouldn't notice any effect at all if the shaft length still allows full arm travel after droop setting. If you shorten them more than what your arms are limited to, you're going to create strain on the shock because it will now be the limiting factor instead of the grub screw. If they're longer than what your arm travel allows it's pointless. Only possiblity I could ever see why you'd have to lengthen the shaft is if you ran out of travel and you still needed more droop, but that is offroad stuff where you're jumping and such.


Wierd things could possibly occur due to progressive springs though but I cant see how since the spring lengths aren't changing. Maybe someone with more TC knowledge can chime in.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Shock length can have an effect on "pack" as the piston position changes within the body. When the piston's neutral position (at static ride height) is lower in the body, there is a larger volume of oil above the piston. That tends to increase pack vs having a longer shock moves the piston further up the body which creates less.

I have been running 63.5mm as per the manual as well, but I can see lengthening the rear shock 0.5-1mm to get a little more rotation in the corner.

Something still on the list to test as I haven't been running a Yokomo for very long

-Korey

tiny tom

Can anyone tell me where I can find a spring chart? Looked on petit rc and don't have it

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

RSD universal spring chart here>>http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-Univ...art_ep_58.html

Wascheck

From Yokomo website.

TChan

Hey guys! Just moved from HB to Yokomo and I finished building my BD7 Black Series 2015 JMRCA last night. But I've come across an issue...with the JMRCA version I get the front DCJ upgrades that are 40.6 but when I put in the regular rear shafts (45.5) it seems that it's too long. I cant adjust the camber enough and seems like the shaft with the clip is really pushing hard against the diff. any help? Also when I tighten the spur gear screw that holds the spur gear to the chassis it seams to just make the gear stop moving. Is this a bearing issue? The bearing seems to work fine. really gotta get this all fixed before the big race! Thanks!

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

The rear shaft should be 44mm. You are using front shafts if they are 45.5mm.