Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree1Likes

Xray T3 2012

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-02-2012, 03:10 PM
  #2026  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
 
4skinz80's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 371
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

should you use the plastic clips? over the pins in the outdrives?
4skinz80 is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 03:13 PM
  #2027  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
locked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,758
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 4skinz80
should you use the plastic clips? over the pins in the outdrives?
Yeah, every outdrive, other than the kit plastic ones, require bone blades(I think XRAY calls them "Plastic Caps")

Get the 3.5mm ones only. I'm not sure why they even make thinner ones.
locked is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 03:34 PM
  #2028  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
nerdling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Canberra
Posts: 3,038
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by locked
Get the 3.5mm ones only. I'm not sure why they even make thinner ones.
T1 and some of the T2 cars used the 3mm caps.
nerdling is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 03:42 PM
  #2029  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
locked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,758
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Ahh. Ok, that makes sense. Thanks nerdling.
locked is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 03:42 PM
  #2030  
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,952
Default

Originally Posted by syndr0me
The XRay version works great too. Just keep an eye on your blades, replace them before they break.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=4012
The problem with all Xray's outdrives that require the blades, is that they never use the entire surface area of the blade to transmit power.
The blades always stick out slightly from the outdrives so they wear a groove in them.
Skiddins is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 03:55 PM
  #2031  
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,387
Trader Rating: 38 (95%+)
Default

I have brand new nikita outdrives for sale 35 usd shipped
zaraz is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 04:14 PM
  #2032  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Fred Hubbard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Inglewood, CA
Posts: 2,721
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I didn't experience issues with the blades breaking with the Aluminum outdrives and I have been using these for the past few months without issues as well: HUDY Spring Steel Lightweight Adapters
Fred Hubbard is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 04:22 PM
  #2033  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
 
syndr0me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: 5280 Raceway
Posts: 13,279
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

They didn't break, but the set I just swapped out definitely had deep grooves in them like Skiddens described. But they had probably 50+ packs on them, so I figure it's reasonable wear.
syndr0me is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 09:59 PM
  #2034  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
alecladanga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Manila
Posts: 886
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Go to ebay and find one. I picked up one for about $6 shipped.
wow, that's a good deal! thanks for the tip!

Originally Posted by nerdling
Sorry, should have been clear I did not use the scales when I built the diff
thanks still dude

Originally Posted by M-Technic
I put the cross section in, and fill to about 1/4 to 1/2 up the side of the cross section. If you overfill the diff, that is when it leaks.

Why use a pump? Unless you really overfill the diff there is going to be air in there, so that is probably an unnecessary step.
super thanks
alecladanga is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 10:04 PM
  #2035  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
 
stro3579's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chicago/Alabama
Posts: 759
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE
Check the rubber insert/O-ring/membrane. I had this happen to me when i first built the car, i do not use foam inserts either and from what i found, the membrane was not seated correctly into the shock between the body and the cap. This cause it to stretch, and once it reached a certain point, it began to leak, this caused some really bad handling issues and costed me alot of track position. I hope your problem is as simple as mine was! Good Luck and i hope this suggestion helps! -Randy Banks
Thanks I will give that a try
stro3579 is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 10:10 PM
  #2036  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
nerdling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Canberra
Posts: 3,038
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Skiddins
The problem with all Xray's outdrives that require the blades, is that they never use the entire surface area of the blade to transmit power.
The blades always stick out slightly from the outdrives so they wear a groove in them.
Short of the setup that the Schumacher Cats and Losi off road buggys from many years ago had, uni joints at the top and bottom of the shaft and a telescopic section in the middle, the blades seem to be a perfect solution. Replace a plastic part that costs under $10 for 4 or, after a similar amount of milage replace some expencive steel/alloy parts.

While were talking out drives, I don't mind that the plastic spool out drives brake, it saves more expencive/harder to repalce parts of the transmission, and normally, I've only ever broken them when I have a 'moment' and hit the wall. I've also noticed that the plastic out drivers will wear internally and notch, like any other non-blade equiped out drive, the trick is you can't see the wear, carefull inspection is required, but again, the life of these can be 50+ packs.
nerdling is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 10:29 PM
  #2037  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 676
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default Ballcups

Do the ballcups on the 2012 seem to be better and have enough clearance or are people sticking with the old flat ones?
AARON YOUNG is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 11:16 PM
  #2038  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (147)
 
FK05 lover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: somewhere in 1973
Posts: 2,994
Trader Rating: 147 (99%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nerdling
While were talking out drives, I don't mind that the plastic spool out drives brake, it saves more expencive/harder to repalce parts of the transmission, and normally, I've only ever broken them when I have a 'moment' and hit the wall. I've also noticed that the plastic out drivers will wear internally and notch, like any other non-blade equiped out drive, the trick is you can't see the wear, carefull inspection is required, but again, the life of these can be 50+ packs.
Agree, A dab of heavy grease (truck stuff) will mininise that though & I usually replace every 3mths of constant use....
(which for me atm is yearly)
FK05 lover is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 11:25 PM
  #2039  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 85
Default

Originally Posted by nerdling
Short of the setup that the Schumacher Cats and Losi off road buggys from many years ago had, uni joints at the top and bottom of the shaft and a telescopic section in the middle, the blades seem to be a perfect solution. Replace a plastic part that costs under $10 for 4 or, after a similar amount of milage replace some expencive steel/alloy parts.

While were talking out drives, I don't mind that the plastic spool out drives brake, it saves more expencive/harder to repalce parts of the transmission, and normally, I've only ever broken them when I have a 'moment' and hit the wall. I've also noticed that the plastic out drivers will wear internally and notch, like any other non-blade equiped out drive, the trick is you can't see the wear, carefull inspection is required, but again, the life of these can be 50+ packs.
We got 6 races out of our plastic out drives on our brand new T3/12,I am just replacing them right now with steel out drives and blades and I hoping they last longer
mcb-jet is offline  
Old 04-03-2012, 01:40 AM
  #2040  
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,952
Default

The best solution I have seen so far for the outdrives/driveshafts is the way Awesomatix have done it.
They effectively use a bearing on each side of the driveshaft instead of blades so the movement is absorbed by the bearing.

Skiddins
Skiddins is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.