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Old 04-02-2012, 04:10 PM   #2026
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should you use the plastic clips? over the pins in the outdrives?
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:13 PM   #2027
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Originally Posted by 4skinz80 View Post
should you use the plastic clips? over the pins in the outdrives?
Yeah, every outdrive, other than the kit plastic ones, require bone blades(I think XRAY calls them "Plastic Caps")

Get the 3.5mm ones only. I'm not sure why they even make thinner ones.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:34 PM   #2028
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Get the 3.5mm ones only. I'm not sure why they even make thinner ones.
T1 and some of the T2 cars used the 3mm caps.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:42 PM   #2029
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Ahh. Ok, that makes sense. Thanks nerdling.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:42 PM   #2030
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The XRay version works great too. Just keep an eye on your blades, replace them before they break.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=4012
The problem with all Xray's outdrives that require the blades, is that they never use the entire surface area of the blade to transmit power.
The blades always stick out slightly from the outdrives so they wear a groove in them.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:55 PM   #2031
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I have brand new nikita outdrives for sale 35 usd shipped
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:14 PM   #2032
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I didn't experience issues with the blades breaking with the Aluminum outdrives and I have been using these for the past few months without issues as well: HUDY Spring Steel Lightweight Adapters
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:22 PM   #2033
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They didn't break, but the set I just swapped out definitely had deep grooves in them like Skiddens described. But they had probably 50+ packs on them, so I figure it's reasonable wear.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:59 PM   #2034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Go to ebay and find one. I picked up one for about $6 shipped.
wow, that's a good deal! thanks for the tip!

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Sorry, should have been clear I did not use the scales when I built the diff
thanks still dude

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I put the cross section in, and fill to about 1/4 to 1/2 up the side of the cross section. If you overfill the diff, that is when it leaks.

Why use a pump? Unless you really overfill the diff there is going to be air in there, so that is probably an unnecessary step.
super thanks
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:04 PM   #2035
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Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE View Post
Check the rubber insert/O-ring/membrane. I had this happen to me when i first built the car, i do not use foam inserts either and from what i found, the membrane was not seated correctly into the shock between the body and the cap. This cause it to stretch, and once it reached a certain point, it began to leak, this caused some really bad handling issues and costed me alot of track position. I hope your problem is as simple as mine was! Good Luck and i hope this suggestion helps! -Randy Banks
Thanks I will give that a try
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:10 PM   #2036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
The problem with all Xray's outdrives that require the blades, is that they never use the entire surface area of the blade to transmit power.
The blades always stick out slightly from the outdrives so they wear a groove in them.
Short of the setup that the Schumacher Cats and Losi off road buggys from many years ago had, uni joints at the top and bottom of the shaft and a telescopic section in the middle, the blades seem to be a perfect solution. Replace a plastic part that costs under $10 for 4 or, after a similar amount of milage replace some expencive steel/alloy parts.

While were talking out drives, I don't mind that the plastic spool out drives brake, it saves more expencive/harder to repalce parts of the transmission, and normally, I've only ever broken them when I have a 'moment' and hit the wall. I've also noticed that the plastic out drivers will wear internally and notch, like any other non-blade equiped out drive, the trick is you can't see the wear, carefull inspection is required, but again, the life of these can be 50+ packs.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:29 PM   #2037
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Default Ballcups

Do the ballcups on the 2012 seem to be better and have enough clearance or are people sticking with the old flat ones?
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Old 04-03-2012, 12:16 AM   #2038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
While were talking out drives, I don't mind that the plastic spool out drives brake, it saves more expencive/harder to repalce parts of the transmission, and normally, I've only ever broken them when I have a 'moment' and hit the wall. I've also noticed that the plastic out drivers will wear internally and notch, like any other non-blade equiped out drive, the trick is you can't see the wear, carefull inspection is required, but again, the life of these can be 50+ packs.
Agree, A dab of heavy grease (truck stuff) will mininise that though & I usually replace every 3mths of constant use....
(which for me atm is yearly)
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Old 04-03-2012, 12:25 AM   #2039
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Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
Short of the setup that the Schumacher Cats and Losi off road buggys from many years ago had, uni joints at the top and bottom of the shaft and a telescopic section in the middle, the blades seem to be a perfect solution. Replace a plastic part that costs under $10 for 4 or, after a similar amount of milage replace some expencive steel/alloy parts.

While were talking out drives, I don't mind that the plastic spool out drives brake, it saves more expencive/harder to repalce parts of the transmission, and normally, I've only ever broken them when I have a 'moment' and hit the wall. I've also noticed that the plastic out drivers will wear internally and notch, like any other non-blade equiped out drive, the trick is you can't see the wear, carefull inspection is required, but again, the life of these can be 50+ packs.
We got 6 races out of our plastic out drives on our brand new T3/12,I am just replacing them right now with steel out drives and blades and I hoping they last longer
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:40 AM   #2040
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The best solution I have seen so far for the outdrives/driveshafts is the way Awesomatix have done it.
They effectively use a bearing on each side of the driveshaft instead of blades so the movement is absorbed by the bearing.

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