26Likes3 racing new F1
03-08-2012, 06:09 AM
#1891
I just mounted up a set of RIDE SS fronts and they suck!! i dont understand why they are so stiff and the compound is not the same, the sidewalls are really stiff and i think the belt is also thicker or something. I mounted mine without the insert and glued the hole shut on the rim so it actually has air pressure inside! havent been to the track with them yet. had the same issue with my 104 ( i think it is the same tire). Does shimizu make slicks for the FGX?
03-08-2012, 06:18 AM
#1892
Mounting the Pit slicks will be a bit of a challenge for the FGX
the 0571 slick front will mount on a Tamiya front rim with a bit of a mod to the inside bead, and then requires the Tamiya Front steering blocks and the 5x10 bearings.... a great upgrade by the way......
but the rear will tough since any of the Tamiya rear rims have the larger 14mm hex. I am doing the mod today on the front and we will see
The 0571/0575 have the different inside and outside side wall diameter and will not work on the standard FGX or Ride wheels....
also will try the Ride SS front and rears today.... they mount right up to the FGX, and Ride Wheels
the 0571 slick front will mount on a Tamiya front rim with a bit of a mod to the inside bead, and then requires the Tamiya Front steering blocks and the 5x10 bearings.... a great upgrade by the way......
but the rear will tough since any of the Tamiya rear rims have the larger 14mm hex. I am doing the mod today on the front and we will see
The 0571/0575 have the different inside and outside side wall diameter and will not work on the standard FGX or Ride wheels....
also will try the Ride SS front and rears today.... they mount right up to the FGX, and Ride Wheels
03-08-2012, 06:34 AM
#1893
Mounting the Pit slicks will be a bit of a challenge for the FGX
the 0571 slick front will mount on a Tamiya front rim with a bit of a mod to the inside bead, and then requires the Tamiya Front steering blocks and the 5x10 bearings.... a great upgrade by the way......
but the rear will tough since any of the Tamiya rear rims have the larger 14mm hex. I am doing the mod today on the front and we will see
The 0571/0575 have the different inside and outside side wall diameter and will not work on the standard FGX or Ride wheels....
also will try the Ride SS front and rears today.... they mount right up to the FGX, and Ride Wheels
the 0571 slick front will mount on a Tamiya front rim with a bit of a mod to the inside bead, and then requires the Tamiya Front steering blocks and the 5x10 bearings.... a great upgrade by the way......
but the rear will tough since any of the Tamiya rear rims have the larger 14mm hex. I am doing the mod today on the front and we will see
The 0571/0575 have the different inside and outside side wall diameter and will not work on the standard FGX or Ride wheels....
also will try the Ride SS front and rears today.... they mount right up to the FGX, and Ride Wheels
So there are no shimizu slicks for the FGX right?
03-08-2012, 06:44 AM
#1894
Not sure about the Ride wheel have had the 25009 up front for close to 30 Batt Packs through them with no shortage of taps on the boards and they are perfect... also have plenty of guys at the track running the RH302/RH402 which is the FGX direct replacement and they are great... the Pit 0561/0565 mount right up to them....
03-08-2012, 07:46 AM
#1896
Tech Master
Starting to sound like the grooved pits are still the best game in town. Thanks guys. Just wanted to be sure before I ordered another set.
03-08-2012, 08:16 AM
#1897
Any news about the dual arm suspension setup ETA? Im about to just make my own, if its not coming soon...... Only thing stopping me is finding a small shock, doesnt need to be oil filled just as long as i can get friction grease on it. i can get the rear shocks to fit but you would have to cut the cockpit out.
03-08-2012, 08:28 AM
#1898
Any news about the dual arm suspension setup ETA? Im about to just make my own, if its not coming soon...... Only thing stopping me is finding a small shock, doesnt need to be oil filled just as long as i can get friction grease on it. i can get the rear shocks to fit but you would have to cut the cockpit out.
03-08-2012, 09:43 AM
#1899
Any news about the dual arm suspension setup ETA? Im about to just make my own, if its not coming soon...... Only thing stopping me is finding a small shock, doesnt need to be oil filled just as long as i can get friction grease on it. i can get the rear shocks to fit but you would have to cut the cockpit out.
03-08-2012, 09:50 AM
#1900
Tech Master
Has anyone used a really soft rear spring with some really thin oil? Maybe 30wt or less. What were the results?
03-08-2012, 09:57 AM
#1901
Most of us were running pretty firm shock setups, even on low grip surfaces since these things are also slamming the chassis on the ground after any bumps.
03-08-2012, 10:15 AM
#1902
RC18 shocks are the same size as what we have now.
you got a picture for those INSP? I am thinking of maybe 12th scale shock tubes with internal springs and then just making some form of droop adjustment plate. The cantilever part is simple and i already have arms that i made for the upper.
Vette, i am up to 4000wt oil with RCShox single stage pistons (single 1.5mm hole) and to be honest i think i can go up more from there, its starting to feel really good, I am running the soft spring from the 3r kit which is stiffer than the original.
03-08-2012, 10:39 AM
#1903
Tech Master
Yeah I had problems with the front tire on the kit set up. I also raised my ride height to 6mm because of the chassis scraping. I thought I was stiff until......
4000 wt? As in diff fluid? Wow. I thought I was stiff at 80wt. So what is the biggest difference you see with a super thick oil and a mild spring? I'm very interested in trying it out.
4000 wt? As in diff fluid? Wow. I thought I was stiff at 80wt. So what is the biggest difference you see with a super thick oil and a mild spring? I'm very interested in trying it out.
03-08-2012, 11:05 AM
#1904
Yeah I had problems with the front tire on the kit set up. I also raised my ride height to 6mm because of the chassis scraping. I thought I was stiff until......
4000 wt? As in diff fluid? Wow. I thought I was stiff at 80wt. So what is the biggest difference you see with a super thick oil and a mild spring? I'm very interested in trying it out.
4000 wt? As in diff fluid? Wow. I thought I was stiff at 80wt. So what is the biggest difference you see with a super thick oil and a mild spring? I'm very interested in trying it out.
This is one of the reasons i am anxious to get a dual arm front working so i can match roll centers and use sway bars like they are supposed to be used!
03-08-2012, 11:16 AM
#1905
Tech Master
Keep in mind that my pistons have a little bit more piston to wall clearance are thicker and are large single hole. Remember we are tuning for handling more so than bumps ( as an off roader i have to remind myself of that!!) In general i dont care for a rear sway bar and no front because it makes the steering wierd and pitches the back around which can be fast but hard to stay consistent . With the thicker oils it slows down the movement of the rear closer to the movement of the front so both ends react close to the same. On the track the car is just more balanced and predictable. One thing i did notice is that the car is much more stable under braking with the sway bar so i have the lightest sway bar on just for that reason. Keep in mind that i am also on low/med grip asphalt.
This is one of the reasons i am anxious to get a dual arm front working so i can match roll centers and use sway bars like they are supposed to be used!
This is one of the reasons i am anxious to get a dual arm front working so i can match roll centers and use sway bars like they are supposed to be used!