frank b

iTrader: (9)

here is the pics of my car.....
in the front gear diff i am experimenting with different diff oils and i tried diff lock from ofna, it allowed the diff to spin very slowy and it kinda acts as a solid axle(still testing). in the rear of the car the diff oil i used was xray 2000w diff oil and make sure you don't over fill the diff, make sure you just put the right amount of oil because i noticed if you over fill the diff it will not work right. i tried running 1000w in the rear and found that the car just didn't feel as quick as running 2000w oil. one other thing i did is run the 6 deg c hubs because i felt the initial turn in with the 4 deg wasn't fast enough, once i changes over the car felt so much better granted that i am running old jaco blue spec tire. the only thing is i must find a manufacture that can give me horses so i can see the full potential of the car..lol

i hope i helped out and yes i know my wiring is not the greatest i will work on it.......

frank b

frank b

iTrader: (9)

about the shocks

i know they are a bit of a pain but i found a way to get them to feel not that bad. first i use the the fixed 3 hole pistons in both shocks, xray 600 in the front and 400 in the rear. i filled them just to were the bladder would sit then use the air pump and get all the air out. after that i will assemble the cap part of the shock with the bladder and the foam insert, i then slowly assemble the cap and push the shock about 3/4 of the way up and allowing the oil to drain out by itself. once its done screw the cap on tightly and you will notice the shock will push itself all the way out and have allot of tension on the shaft. tighten the cap just enough to were it will stop by itself once your done then turn the shock upside down, and then open the bottom part of the clamp that hold the o ring in place, hold the clamp in-place just with a little amount of pressure not allowing the oil to seep out fast. then your ready to make the rebound as you want it. i will slowly push the shock down into the shock body until i want a certain rebound percentage i usually have 20 % in my shock. once you have the desired position for rebound then tighten the bottom clamp and then tighten the top cap all the way then recheck the rebound if its still to much loosen the bottom clamp and do the same thing until you have the right rebound. once you are done check and make sure there is no air in the shock and do them all the same way. that is how i have been doing my shocks for a while now since the t2 and it has always worked out for me. hope i help at least one person out.........

frank b

Cocoon

Fiiiinisssshhheddd! not as neat as I had once hoped! but better than nothing..

ioxqq

thanks!

dpatterson26

iTrader: (6)

Does anybody know the part number for the "h" eccentric blocks?

jeb4

iTrader: (6)

I can't wait to get this on the track...

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

# 303035

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

What weight break do you run there Frank? I don't see any weights on the car, how does it balance out? What speed control is that? Thanks

frank b

iTrader: (9)

the weight now is above 1420 g that is allowed by roar, by adding the gear diff in the front and in the rear will make the car heavier and i have not checked the weight on a scale yet.. the car balances out dead on with the balancing tool xray makes, the weight i added are just in front of the servo and some between the motor and the fan ( don't forget the weights have carbon fiber design on them) hard to see !!!!!! the speed control is a ORCA VITRA Pro Spec speed control

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

You won't notice any difference with the new shallow bladders. You're wasting your time drilling holes. If your track has good traction try running about 2-4mm more rebound in the rear than the front. Let us know how that works.

A side note- with the lighter weights, lighter springs and more centralized weight, most racers I see aren't spending enough time tuning camber. You can't just adjust the static camber and hope for the best. You need to learn to read the tires and adjust camber rise and static camber together.

And whoever mentioned their shocks changing rebound during the run in a post above, have you ever temped your shock bodies before and after a run? Not enough difference (if any)to matter. However, you will see rebound changes if say, you build your shocks inside in the A/C then put your car out on a 140deg track. Keep in mind that the more change you see in rebound relative to temperature change is indicative of how much air is present in your shocks, whether it be bubbles or air dissolved in the shock oil. Air molecules have a much higher heat expansion than pure silicone oil.

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

since everyone is talking about shocks and gear diffs, here are some things I have been working on.

I didn't drill out the TRF caps, I machined down the Xray tops a little. I also run TRF bladders. One thing to consider is that TRF's are longer and at ride height, are more compressed than Xray shocks. As discussed in the HB Cyclone thread, this does seem to take some grip away.

As for the diff, you just can't come close to the quality of the NT1 diffs. Spec R's don't even come close. Now that I have mine done just watch Xray release theirs and make all the time it took a waste.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Got it, thanks.

j86

iTrader: (6)

Could somebody be kind enough to name a list of some of the MOST COMMON/Neccesary upgrade/replacement parts I should pick up when buying a T3 2011?

Thanks

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

Last night I built my first ever set of xray shocks. When does all this "pain" I keep hearing about start?

Nilks

ECS driveshafts are pretty nice. I don't think you need more than that.

Then you just need the usual spareparts: steering knuckles, suspension arms and stuff like that.