2LikesXray T3 2011
07-07-2011, 07:58 AM
#2521
When you start bench testing don't be too alarmed if you hear grinding/vibrations when applying full steering lock, its the front drive shafts.
Do check to make sure the nothing is in the way of the belt as always with any build.
To remove the noise you'll want to upgrade to ESC drive shafts or limit your steering rate:
I spent countless hours trying to work out why I was getting the noise!
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Do check to make sure the nothing is in the way of the belt as always with any build.
To remove the noise you'll want to upgrade to ESC drive shafts or limit your steering rate:
| + YouTube Video | |
I spent countless hours trying to work out why I was getting the noise!
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If you plan to use a gear diff in the front, I'd get the 50mm front ECS shafts.
07-09-2011, 12:31 PM
#2525
ECS
I was running the stock 52mm bones up front and went to the 50mm ecs to help with the shatter up front. When I assembled the shafts all I had was AE black grease and after one night one is very bound up already? Is the shaft damaged or is it because I didn't use the Xray graphite grease?
07-10-2011, 02:36 AM
#2526
I was running the stock 52mm bones up front and went to the 50mm ecs to help with the shatter up front. When I assembled the shafts all I had was AE black grease and after one night one is very bound up already? Is the shaft damaged or is it because I didn't use the Xray graphite grease?
07-10-2011, 10:05 AM
#2527
Can you help me understand why adding a 1mm roll center shim on the bilkeahd clamp would help keep the back in shape in this case? My first instinct would be to add the 1mm shim to the rear to finely adjust the roll center lower and add some grip in the rear. I'm not debating with you just trying to get better at setup
Thx Craig.
07-10-2011, 05:04 PM
#2528
Tech Regular
A spool chatters more because the out drive slots on both side are aliegned with each other, as the drive shafts woobles in the outdrives, the combined effect is chatter. In a gear diff loaded with goop, the slots will most likely be out of aliegnment so less chatter. Its possible (with a bit of faffing about) to fit schuy MI4 drive shaft in the Xray, these chatter slightly less and 1/2 the cost of Xray parts but ESC are the best.
07-10-2011, 05:06 PM
#2529
So 2mm of ackerman spacers total? 1mm is kit setting (?) IIRC,
Can you help me understand why adding a 1mm roll center shim on the bilkeahd clamp would help keep the back in shape in this case? My first instinct would be to add the 1mm shim to the rear to finely adjust the roll center lower and add some grip in the rear. I'm not debating with you just trying to get better at setup
Thx Craig.
Can you help me understand why adding a 1mm roll center shim on the bilkeahd clamp would help keep the back in shape in this case? My first instinct would be to add the 1mm shim to the rear to finely adjust the roll center lower and add some grip in the rear. I'm not debating with you just trying to get better at setup
Thx Craig.
0mm ackerman is kit, 1mm is a bit more mellow particularly mid corner
With the RC's you are right, lowering the front RC with all other thing equal will give more steering, but when we are taking about the upper links the change in height of the RC is very slight whereas the change in camber gain is more noticeable, and its the camber gain on the L setting which can make the car bite mid corner and cause the tail to step out unexpectedly - this is most evident on large tracks (e.g. nitro) with long continuous radius corners.
You're correct on the changes to the rear too, adding that shim will really lock it in but I've never liked the car with 1mm on the rear bulkhead because it just seems to steal corner speed away.
07-10-2011, 05:34 PM
#2530
No trouble at all
0mm ackerman is kit, 1mm is a bit more mellow particularly mid corner
With the RC's you are right, lowering the front RC with all other thing equal will give more steering, but when we are taking about the upper links the change in height of the RC is very slight whereas the change in camber gain is more noticeable, and its the camber gain on the L setting which can make the car bite mid corner and cause the tail to step out unexpectedly - this is most evident on large tracks (e.g. nitro) with long continuous radius corners.
You're correct on the changes to the rear too, adding that shim will really lock it in but I've never liked the car with 1mm on the rear bulkhead because it just seems to steal corner speed away.
0mm ackerman is kit, 1mm is a bit more mellow particularly mid corner
With the RC's you are right, lowering the front RC with all other thing equal will give more steering, but when we are taking about the upper links the change in height of the RC is very slight whereas the change in camber gain is more noticeable, and its the camber gain on the L setting which can make the car bite mid corner and cause the tail to step out unexpectedly - this is most evident on large tracks (e.g. nitro) with long continuous radius corners.
You're correct on the changes to the rear too, adding that shim will really lock it in but I've never liked the car with 1mm on the rear bulkhead because it just seems to steal corner speed away.
I fought this in my last race with the xray in this one specific key part of the track. Good timing on your initial reply and thanks to the OP!
I should know this already after reading the setup manual about 47,000 times
07-11-2011, 02:21 AM
#2531
Makes perfect sense now, I didn't think about the camber gain piece of it being as much of a factor. I'm going to give it a go next time I have the opportunity.
I fought this in my last race with the xray in this one specific key part of the track. Good timing on your initial reply and thanks to the OP!
I should know this already after reading the setup manual about 47,000 times
I fought this in my last race with the xray in this one specific key part of the track. Good timing on your initial reply and thanks to the OP!
I should know this already after reading the setup manual about 47,000 times
I hear ya, the setup book is good for the theory but nothing beats testing. See how you go and let us know, obviously any settings depend on the rest of your setup plus a million other variables, that's what makes it fun I'm told 
Has anyone here run the sweep OG spec tyres and can comment how they compare with say sorex?
07-11-2011, 09:03 AM
#2532
I've ran the OG tires with a 10.5 boosted, and on medium-grip carpet they hooked up pretty well. The car didn't feel completely "planted" but as long as I stayed on the groove I didn't have any traction issues. They also felt like they rolled better than softer Sweep tires. I can imagine if a track had a very dark groove built up they would be great!
I ran some practice and a heat on medium grip asphalt yesterday, also. They gripped well enough but just didn't drive as "fast" as the hard Solaris tires also allowed, so I don't plan to use them on asphalt again unless it is the only option.
I haven't used Sorex, though, so I can't compare them!
I ran some practice and a heat on medium grip asphalt yesterday, also. They gripped well enough but just didn't drive as "fast" as the hard Solaris tires also allowed, so I don't plan to use them on asphalt again unless it is the only option.
I haven't used Sorex, though, so I can't compare them!
07-12-2011, 02:09 AM
#2534
07-12-2011, 03:23 AM
#2535
Tech Rookie
Hello you guy's
I'm just building my xray T3 2011 and it looks really cool
For powering the system i've got a GM Genius 120 ESC, but i'm looking to get a motor...
How much turns could you recommend?
It's just driving for fun, so there are no regulations...
Greetings
Kurt
I'm just building my xray T3 2011 and it looks really cool
For powering the system i've got a GM Genius 120 ESC, but i'm looking to get a motor...
How much turns could you recommend?
It's just driving for fun, so there are no regulations...
Greetings
Kurt