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Old 08-29-2012, 02:21 PM   #856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madulla View Post
I have found the easiest way to get my M06 to run consistently was to go back to my M05.
Care to elaborate? Or are you just being sarcastic
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:51 AM   #857
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hi there,

still waiting for my BallDiff to be delivered, but here is a short video of my yesterdays training ..
made on my club's track in Austria

setup still, as i mentioned a post earlier.

please add h t t p :// w w w in front, as i am not allowed to add a url right now...

youtube.com/watch?v=LuKGKTe8X4I&hd=1

cheers
Flo
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:03 AM   #858
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Nice driving, very clean lines. Looks like you have the rear end under control!

I have the ball diff myself but have not installed it yet.. So far I'm happy with the gear diff.

By the way, nice track! Wish we had something like that near my house

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Originally Posted by Aitutaki View Post
hi there,

still waiting for my BallDiff to be delivered, but here is a short video of my yesterdays training ..
made on my club's track in Austria

setup still, as i mentioned a post earlier.

please add h t t p :// w w w in front, as i am not allowed to add a url right now...

youtube.com/watch?v=LuKGKTe8X4I&hd=1

cheers
Flo
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:02 AM   #859
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When you are running the same front and rear tire on M-06, you have to take away traction at the TIRE. Keep your suspension setup fairly middle of the road for the time being.

Start by CA gluing the entire outer sidewall of your front tires. This will take away some front grip because there will be less 'give' and will cause the car to start to push (hopefully). If you still oversteer, you can try to put CA on the outer tire tread by about 2mm more in from the glued sidewall. Don't glue tires much more than this.

Now, start with 1 camber up front. Start with 1 in the rear. 0 front toe. Traction compound only on the rear. You want to get the car to start to push. Car oversteers - goto 0 front camber. Oversteers again - 2 rear. Make 1 degree adjustments so you can really feel it. When you get the car to push consistently, fine tune with camber links to dial back in some rear traction at the right ballance.

When people told me about this, I was like "no way I'm going to ruin new tires by CA gluing the tread". They were right, now my M-06 can race.

With this, I still run stock gear diff. Same shock oil front and rear. Tune almost exclusively with camber. Once I get the springs were I want them, I only have to switch if traction really comes up over the day.

Treating your tires like this is legal in TCS racing in the US and does not cause you to fail tech. Good luck.

Last edited by SMcD; 09-09-2012 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:27 PM   #860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMcD View Post
When you are running the same front and rear tire on M-06, you have to take away traction at the TIRE. Keep your suspension setup fairly middle of the road for the time being.

Start by CA gluing the entire outer sidewall of your front tires. This will take away some front grip because there will be less 'give' and will cause the car to start to push (hopefully). If you still oversteer, you can try to put CA on the outer tire tread by about 2mm more in from the glued sidewall. Don't glue tires much more than this.

Now, start with 1 camber up front. Start with 1 in the rear. 0 front toe. Traction compound only on the rear. You want to get the car to start to push. Car oversteers - goto 0 front camber. Pushes - 2 rear. Make 1 degree adjustments so you can really feel it. When you get the car to push consistently, fine tune with camber links to dial back in some rear traction at the right ballance.

When people told me about this, I was like "no way I'm going to ruin new tires by CA gluing the tread". They were right, now my M-06 can race.

With this, I still run stock gear diff. Same shock oil front and rear. Tune almost exclusively with camber. Once I get the springs were I want them, I only have to switch if traction really comes up over the day.

Treating your tires like this is legal in TCS racing in the US and does not cause you to fail tech. Good luck.
Nice idea on gluing the side wall.. hadn't thought of that before
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:52 PM   #861
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Nice idea on gluing the side wall.. hadn't thought of that before
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:27 PM   #862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Nice driving, very clean lines. Looks like you have the rear end under control!

I have the ball diff myself but have not installed it yet.. So far I'm happy with the gear diff.

By the way, nice track! Wish we had something like that near my house
Thanks Raman,
Yes, with this setup it's a really easy drive... as you can see in the video

unfortunately, the track is not "near" to my house it's 65km one way, but makes a lot of fun
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:30 PM   #863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMcD View Post
When you are running the same front and rear tire on M-06, you have to take away traction at the TIRE. Keep your suspension setup fairly middle of the road for the time being.

Start by CA gluing the entire outer sidewall of your front tires. This will take away some front grip because there will be less 'give' and will cause the car to start to push (hopefully). If you still oversteer, you can try to put CA on the outer tire tread by about 2mm more in from the glued sidewall. Don't glue tires much more than this.

Now, start with 1 camber up front. Start with 1 in the rear. 0 front toe. Traction compound only on the rear. You want to get the car to start to push. Car oversteers - goto 0 front camber. Oversteers again - 2 rear. Make 1 degree adjustments so you can really feel it. When you get the car to push consistently, fine tune with camber links to dial back in some rear traction at the right ballance.

When people told me about this, I was like "no way I'm going to ruin new tires by CA gluing the tread". They were right, now my M-06 can race.

With this, I still run stock gear diff. Same shock oil front and rear. Tune almost exclusively with camber. Once I get the springs were I want them, I only have to switch if traction really comes up over the day.

Treating your tires like this is legal in TCS racing in the US and does not cause you to fail tech. Good luck.
Thanks for your ideas about this topic.
And interesting, that i already heard about this, but on F104/F103 cars with foam tires.
I already did such "glue"-tuning there, but it did not come into my mind, that this might help here too )

i will try this out the next time i am on the track.
thanks!
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:21 PM   #864
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Here's my $0.02 on using glue on tires as a way to balance traction:

At the end of the day, you have reduced the total grip of your car and are getting used to driving a car that pushes with high front tire slip angles, which will always be slower than a car that has minimal slip angles but less steering angle for any given turn.

I'm not saying that this approach is wrong, but in the long run, it is the slower way around the track.

There are a few things to look at here with RWD cars:

Where is the car oversteering? Entry, mid, or exit.

Corner entry oversteer is primarily a weight transfer issue.

Mid corner oversteer is a chassis balance issue.

Corner exit oversteer is a throttle application issue.

My personal approach is to always maximize tire traction on both front and rear, and drive the car to the limit of the set of tires that lose traction first, not take traction away from one end of the car to balance out the "looser" end.

Sometimes, it's the driver's technique that is flawed. An RWD mini will require a different approach to driving than a FWD mini. A LOT of r/c drivers simply do not change how they drive the car regardless of drive configuration. This is why you have guys that are fantastic modified drivers (point, shoot, brake, turn, repeat) that can't do better than mid-pack in a 17.5 or 13.5 stock race (have to pick lines where you keep corner speeds up). Anyway, I digress.
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:58 AM   #865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoWheel View Post
Here's my $0.02 on using glue on tires as a way to balance traction:

At the end of the day, you have reduced the total grip of your car and are getting used to driving a car that pushes with high front tire slip angles, which will always be slower than a car that has minimal slip angles but less steering angle for any given turn.

I'm not saying that this approach is wrong, but in the long run, it is the slower way around the track.

There are a few things to look at here with RWD cars:

Where is the car oversteering? Entry, mid, or exit.

Corner entry oversteer is primarily a weight transfer issue.

Mid corner oversteer is a chassis balance issue.

Corner exit oversteer is a throttle application issue.

My personal approach is to always maximize tire traction on both front and rear, and drive the car to the limit of the set of tires that lose traction first, not take traction away from one end of the car to balance out the "looser" end.

Sometimes, it's the driver's technique that is flawed. An RWD mini will require a different approach to driving than a FWD mini. A LOT of r/c drivers simply do not change how they drive the car regardless of drive configuration. This is why you have guys that are fantastic modified drivers (point, shoot, brake, turn, repeat) that can't do better than mid-pack in a 17.5 or 13.5 stock race (have to pick lines where you keep corner speeds up). Anyway, I digress.
Nice post. It is spot on.

He's asking about using A slicks front and rear on M-06 in sanctioned and teched race event. Most that run the M-06 run different front and rear tires. Best way to fit the rules of the race here is to glue the sidewall. IMO in the long run cheaper and easier to go back to base setup for club racing.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:59 AM   #866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoWheel View Post
I think you are going about your mini setup in the wrong direction.

If you are having trouble with traction on one end, you want to maximize the traction on that end before you start taking traction away from the stable end.

With that said, the key to getting an MO6 to handle well, at least in my own testing, is to have the Tamiya Ball Diff #54194. The advantage to this over the geared diff is that you can set it up to slip slightly if needed so you car is not spinning out under throttle. Set up correctly, this will solve 70% of your problems.
So back from today, and a very interesting outcome of testing and trying :

There was no difference between the gear diff and the ball diff (TA03) today. the same oversteer with poor front tires, and a spinning rear with type a or S-grip all around...

that's something i really did not expect to be..
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:13 AM   #867
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Hi, I have a quick question regarding the bodyshell. Can the RIDE Subaru Impreza WRX (225mm) shell fit onto the M-06?
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:20 PM   #868
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Originally Posted by faifaisalfal View Post
Hi, I have a quick question regarding the bodyshell. Can the RIDE Subaru Impreza WRX (225mm) shell fit onto the M-06?
Yes
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:25 PM   #869
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Guys I am going to get on for my B-day this month.
What are the must have hopups for this car?
Sorry to ask, but no time to read the whole thing.
Regards.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:46 PM   #870
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@ Fabricio, up grading the hub carriers, at least the rear. Front and rear shock towers and also up grading the shocks as well. the clear plastic one do not last to long.
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