Kraig

iTrader: (81)

If this was already mentioned then I apologize. What Kinwald does (according to the article) is he takes 2 Kimbrough gears and glues them together. Each gear is 5mm. He will then set the chassis down on the gears (2 sets of gears, front and rear) and adjusts the wheels until they just touch the ground. That is how the magazine explains it.

rod_b

Does anyone know what that roughly equates to in "regular" droop values

new2xxxs

First, I would like to thank everyone for all the posts on this board. I printed it out as small as I coult read, and it was still 300+ pages! It has taken me a month to read what everyone has written. Based on what you guys have said I bought an xxxs.

Today was it's first practice and race. I wish I could say I TQ'd and lapped the field in the A, but I have never driven a TC, so it took a bit to get used to.

My question.
I am running on a very tight carpet track. In stock class, until I get better at driving TCs. There are a pair of 180 corners that unless I am purfectly smooth, the other cars pick up 10 feet on me coming out of them. I am thinking that the inside front tire is lifting and I am loosing power from that. I am running the box setup - plaid fronts / purple rears. which is what everyone else used (that's why I started there).

Based on my off experience (10+ years), I would stiffen up the rear springs. but I thought you guys could give me some better advice. Maybe I need a drastic change? I would rather not stiffen up the rear, because as the traction compound wears off, the rear end frees up (loose). I kinda like that, because I was able to get real aggressive in the last 2 minutes - passed a lot of guys then.

I have no other complaints about this car at all. From the first battery pack, I was able to do laps within 1 second of the fastest guys, but I couldn't be consistant do to tire lifting deal.

Thanks again for all your posts.

STARSCREAM

hey man.....

try running purple springs in the rear and black springs in the front.....

try 70 or 80 wt oil......that should be a good start.....

what stock motor are u running and what is your gearing....

I should be able to help more....

STARSCREAM

also......get rid of those plaid fronts....get some double purples and use those plaids for practice or something.....

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Welcome to rctech and the XXX-S. Tell us a bit more about the track you're racing on... Is it smooth or rough, grippy or not, etc.

I'm currently doing most of my racing on a fairly small carpet track out in Patchogue, NY. Smooth and quite grippy.

I've changed from the kit setup to Losi black springs up front and Losi purple springs in back. I'm running 60wt. oil in the shocks with the kit pistons. In back my camber link is in the 1 hole on the tower and the "A" hole on the hub carrier, up front it's in the 2 hole on the tower.

I'm running 2 degree caster blocks, and no kickup in front(0-F hinge pin mount). I'm running the kit hub carriers in back with no anti-squat(0-R hinge pin mount). I'm not using the low roll center blocks, just running the standard kit parts.

Tires are TRC purple in back and plaid up front, around 57mm in diameter. I use Paragon Ground Effects traction compound, full rear tire and inner half on the fronts.

Ride height 4.5mm front and rear, and I set the droop screws to just take out the play in the spring when the suspension is at full extension.

The car seems to work very well this way.

I'm surprised that your car is lifting a wheel, I don't think I've ever noticed mine doing that.

Trips

DennisNyholm

iTrader: (7)

I just started running my Losi and I am having a problem breaking my caster carriers at least once a day. Granted I am playing with the wall a bit but it is not like I am hitting it in every turn. THey seem to be very fragile. I was thinking of getting the aluminum ones, but then I figured I would be breaking the arms instead.....If I get the aluminum arms also, what would be the next thing to break? THe chassis? Should I really have to worry once I have the aluminum arms and caster carriers (spindles too)? I am just getting a bit dissapointed that I can't even learn to drive it if it keeps on breaking with the slightest tap. I do have a BRP front bumper too. Any other ideas to bulletproof the front end of the XXX-S? Thanks in advance!
Dennis

DennisNyholm

iTrader: (7)

Trips, who are you? I just started racing at SS Hobby a few weeks ago. It is strange to see someone else on here that runs at SS Hobby...small world I guess. I am just starting out and this seems to be the best place to learn while I am not at the track. I'll see you there!!! It looks like we are running a very similar setup...at least now I know I am on the right track. I am just running the TRC Purples in the front and Pinks in the rear...I am switching t othe plaid/ purple this weekend and giving it a shot, everyone seems to be having good luck with it and my traction roll problem is getting to be a pain in the a**. Do you run your battery in the front slot or the back?

sixandeightstri

Actually, the plaid front/purple back combo works well for me - my problems were in setup. A fellow racer helped me out, and now my car is on rails on the carpet - swapped out the front springs for Losi yellows, and moved the links on the back tower and rear hub carriers to the outermost (furthest) positions... what a difference changing that geometry made!

STARSCREAM

since plaids are made of purple compound with a hard compound on the outside edge, they can make the car twitchy turning in and pushy through the middle of the corner....

you can do things to the chassis to counteract most of this, but that makes the car more inconsistent..... some people like a pushy car by nature, but if you want good consistant stearing, use double purples up front....

and just so you know, plaids were designed for outdoor asphalt use.....for mostly nitro sedans......not for carpet.....

sixandeightstri

Well, I'm not trying to challenge your expertise... but it seems that many of the folks at "new2xxxs"'s track - as well as most of the folks at mine - seem to think that it's a decent tire combo to use. Everyone has their preferences. There's as many different setups as there are racers.

I was just stating that he may not have to go out and spring $50 on a new set of foams since he's got some that are practically brand new already. Especially since carpet season is coming to a close (at least around here, anyway.) Why not try to help a new driver find a solution without spending a lot of dough, eh?

STARSCREAM

Im just trying to tell him what I and the factory guys on this coast think is best on carpet......besides, new fronts are 22 bucks, not 50......most intermediate racers like a bit of a push, so then plaids might be better for them.......if you like lots of stearing like pro drivers do, then its double purples baby.......peace

JitsuGuy

Oh geez! You mean I have to learn about this tire stuff too!? Man, I thought I could just put some round things on and go! hehe

Jits

Arnoud

the XXXS made it after about six months of driving it: I TQ'd and won both A's in stock. The car really "rocked" I TQ'd with over 7 seconds distance to number 2 and over 10 in the second A (the first was "only" 3). Other cars were, Tamiya, XRay (mainly), HPI Pro 2 and 3, Corally. I'm still the only XXXS on the track....

I used the BK set up, with some minor changes: shocks in the back one in compared to BK, blue springs front, silver in the rear, belt extremely loose (it lacked a bit of top speed but accelerated very well) and a 88 - 25 gear for my MVP. Thanks for posting it, it really helped me a lot!

We race on what i call a middle track (about 20 to 21 seconds for a lap) with some strange underground (it's more or less the ground of a trackfield of a few years a go). I used Eleggi (30mm with offset blocks) C's (i.e very soft) in the rear and E (26 mm, middle) in the front. Could enybody tell me what this would/could be in the purples/plaids?!

yokomojo

new2xxxs:

I'm also having the problem with the inside front tire lifting - but only when turning in one direction. My first thought was to stiffen the rear springs and hesitated as you did.

After some troubleshooting, I found that one of the shocks was binding due to the piston rubbing inside the shock cylinder. I sanded the outside edge of the piston and found that that alleviated the problem - but not entirely.

I'm running 80 wt oil in the shocks (trying the stock setup). When I lift the front end, I can see that the shock in question still drops slower than the other shock. I'm using the stock purple springs up front - they're a little short for a 5mm ride height - gravity is the only force keeping the wheels on the ground as the front end lifts.

I did not have this problem when using a different piston and 45 wt oil. I'll change back to the old pistons tomorrow.

Later,

YJ