R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-10-2005, 11:31 PM   #14836
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
theisgroup you have pm.
on the shock end that mount just behind the antenna, i replaced it with an xray shock end and set screw. now i just use a 3mm wrench and unscrew the ball from the set screw that is mounted in the antenna mount.

a problem with charging a battery in the car is if your batts get hot, you could warp the chassis
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 12:42 AM   #14837
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
a problem with charging a battery in the car is if your batts get hot, you could warp the chassis
Maybe someone who knows more than I do about the production of carbon fiber sheets could enlighten us; I believe that a great deal of heat is applied during the process. If hot batteries could warp a chassis, then you should not re-peak either.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 10:02 AM   #14838
ml
Tech Apprentice
 
ml's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 84
Send a message via AIM to ml Send a message via Yahoo to ml Send a message via Skype™ to ml
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
Mike Lufaso just won the OnRoad Nationals. his website pics his car with a brushless setup. don't know if that is what he ran?

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
I used the LRP Sphere/Reedy NEO One combination. I'll try to update the website by the end of the week. I'll also put the full details of the car setup and a few pictures of the layout of the electronics, which is slightly different from the current picture.
ml is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 11:02 AM   #14839
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 301
Default

Great job in florida Mike!!!

Are you going to make it to the halloween race???



Walter
walterhenderson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 11:09 AM   #14840
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ml
I used the LRP Sphere/Reedy NEO One combination. I'll try to update the website by the end of the week. I'll also put the full details of the car setup and a few pictures of the layout of the electronics, which is slightly different from the current picture.
Mike, please give us the Sphere settings that you used!
Thanks - Paul
__________________
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 08:59 PM   #14841
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default KO VFS1 Pro ESC

Has anyone used the KO VFS1 Pro ESC in their 1/12th scale car for stock motor racing?

To this point, I have been using QC2s exclusively; but, I won this ESC in a drawing at Las Vegas.

Any basic setting you can advise me of would be most appreciated. Gotta figure out the programmer tool too.

od? Crashby? jrrc? One of you must have

Bill
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 12:27 AM   #14842
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Perhaps this will help: http://www.kopropo.com/vfs_help.htm
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 06:59 AM   #14843
Tech Addict
 
radio_car_racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 543
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer


just preped the car for Sat night @ TRCC and shimmed the front springs so that there was no play either way on the king pin. On placing the car fully loaded minus bodyshell there is now a little free play on the king pins as the weight of the car is now loading the spring a little.

1. do I leave shimming as is,

or

2. shim the king pins now the car is on it's wheels
anyone with any thoughts on this post ???
radio_car_racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 07:23 AM   #14844
ml
Tech Apprentice
 
ml's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 84
Send a message via AIM to ml Send a message via Yahoo to ml Send a message via Skype™ to ml
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
Mike, please give us the Sphere settings that you used!
Thanks - Paul
Try these settings. Put throttle travel to maximum (150 on KO Propo Helios) and set brake to 100 on setup. Reduce push brake to 90-95% on the transmitter. Set Mode 1 = 2, Mode 2 = 3, Mode 3 (initial brake) = 2, Mode 4 (automatic brake) = 2 (medium). I used 23/98 with 1.84" Jaco two stage tires. Also try value 3 for modes 3 and 4, depending on your track size. The Nats track was flowing, so not much automatic brake was needed. You may also want to use thinner wire to the motor.

Last edited by ml; 10-12-2005 at 03:45 PM.
ml is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 07:55 AM   #14845
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
anyone with any thoughts on this post ???
This is called droop and its a good thing. Leave it alone. If you built the front end perfect the spring should line up with the slot for the e-clip that retains so it is not loose and it is not compressed (Pre-loaded).
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 09:55 AM   #14846
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 7,462
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default 12L4 19T setup

Any suggestions on setup for a stock 12L4?


I am building a box stock 12L4 and will be running on new Ozite w/ a 19T.

How is the stock 12L4 setup or is there another one people would suggest to start with? AE's site doesn't have much...

Mike L...is there one on your site you could suggest for a stock 12L4?
__________________
{{ SPEED PASSION USA }}

<<-- WWW.SPEEDPOWERRC.COM ->>
Nexus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 12:45 PM   #14847
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ml
Try these settings. Put throttle travel to maximum (150 on KO Propo Helios) and set brake to 100 on setup. Reduce push brake to 90-95% on the transmitter. Set Mode 1 = 1, Mode 2 = 3, Mode 3 (initial brake) = 2, Mode 4 (automatic brake) = 2 (medium). I used 23/98 with 1.84" Jaco two stage tires. Also try value 3 for modes 3 and 4, depending on your track size. The Nats track was flowing, so not much automatic brake was needed. You may also want to use thinner wire to the motor.
Thanks for posting your setup, Mike!

I noticed from the pictures that I have seen that smaller gauge wire might make for a cleaner application. Did you reduce the size of your wire to the motor and if you did, was there any noticeable loss in power? In addition, what size wire did you use?

Thanks!
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 01:43 PM   #14848
Tech Addict
 
Formula1fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Buckeye City!
Posts: 691
Default

Please excuse my newbe questions. What will different size spurs do for me?

I heard that there was a bad batch of Sliva shocks out. Are they the best shock to have. I had one that I couldnt get to stop leaking.

How much lower should I true my front tires then my rears?

Thanks
Formula1fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 01:47 PM   #14849
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Please excuse my newbe questions. What will different size spurs do for me?

I heard that there was a bad batch of Sliva shocks out. Are they the best shock to have. I had one that I couldnt get to stop leaking.

How much lower should I true my front tires then my rears?

Thanks
Spurs: Just like TC, bigger spur is less top end, smaller spur is more, for the same pinion.

Get the CRC dura shock, similar to the silva, but have been issue free as far as I know. I generally start with a .1" split front to rear, but I run the old school front-end. New schoolers will probably need to go lower.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 03:29 PM   #14850
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ml
Try these settings. Put throttle travel to maximum (150 on KO Propo Helios) and set brake to 100 on setup. Reduce push brake to 90-95% on the transmitter. Set Mode 1 = 1, Mode 2 = 3, Mode 3 (initial brake) = 2, Mode 4 (automatic brake) = 2 (medium). I used 23/98 with 1.84" Jaco two stage tires. Also try value 3 for modes 3 and 4, depending on your track size. The Nats track was flowing, so not much automatic brake was needed. You may also want to use thinner wire to the motor.
ML - So you ran the Sphere in fwd/Rvs mode? (mode 1 = 1).
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 7 (1 members and 6 guests)
TOADYY
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:29 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0