R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-19-2005, 06:59 AM   #14176
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
The plastic nut will not fall off, they are not threaded and very tight for a reason. You would hate to see that nut move on you during a run (not that I feel it would). I have been running the same nut since my 12LC
Hmm. The problem is that it isn't very tight. It actually can be pulled from the last 1/4" of threads on the shock. With everything else so precision on the car, this part is bothering me. I know if I don't replace it, the darn thing will cause me grief in the future.


Quote:
The reason your front end seems a little strange is those hinge pins. You have the old style L pins in there. You want to switch those out for the AE part #4569 ($2.00). It's a straight ground titanium pin that is held in place with those two set screws. The link below has a great detail shot for you.
Wow, thank you for that info, Nick. I would have never found that part even existed. I'm kind of irritated that CRC never mentioned the need for that piece in the first place. Now, the challenge is to find some place that actually carries those parts, or even knows what they are.


Thanks much!


doug
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 07:43 AM   #14177
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

BTW, just found those hing pins at Stormer, but I had to have a shopping spree in order to avoid placing an order for less than their shipping charges. wOOt!
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 10:07 AM   #14178
Tech Adept
 
Nick-C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 181
Default

Glab I could help out Doug!

Didn't realize the nut was loose! It needs to be replaced!

Nick
Nick-C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 03:55 PM   #14179
Tech Champion
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 7,400
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

apex--
With the spring cars it's a really good idea to run the metal shock adjuster, since the springs are much heavier than what you would run with a t bar car. The plastic nuts are nowhere near as cool anyway.
__________________
A mutually re-enforcing cascade of failure

"Failior [sic] crowns enterprise." Robert Goddard

I-Lap Scoring Systems http://www.rclapcounter.com/
robk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 04:14 PM   #14180
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

Fortunately, they had the IRS/Silva ones in stock at Stormer, so I got the front pins and the shock nut, as well as a few other minor pieces I'll need to get rolling. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning, I'm so excited to run carpet again.

Whoo hoo!
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 05:49 PM   #14181
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Fortunately, they had the IRS/Silva ones in stock at Stormer, so I got the front pins and the shock nut, as well as a few other minor pieces I'll need to get rolling. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning, I'm so excited to run carpet again.

Whoo hoo!
I'm right there with you man, I'm just jealous you already have yours
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 07:58 PM   #14182
Tech Adept
 
Nick-C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 181
Default

Just got home from the track and wanted to post some feedback. This was my first session with the Hyperform chassis and I have to say it ran very well. A few minor changes and I think I will have it right where it needs to be.

Anyone looking for a replacement chassis or an upgrade for the L4 chassis should give it a good look. The price is excellent and there is no doubt in my mind that it will perform.

Nick
Nick-C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 11:20 PM   #14183
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

Your car looked good Nick, I was impressed. It was really nice meeting you also. Sorry we didn't get to chat more; I got their late and was way behind setting up the sedan and such. My apologies… Hope to see you again soon!
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 11:39 PM   #14184
Tech Adept
 
Nick-C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 181
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperform Racing
Your car looked good Nick, I was impressed. It was really nice meeting you also. Sorry we didn't get to chat more; I got their late and was way behind setting up the sedan and such. My apologies… Hope to see you again soon!
Not a problem Lino, Shawn and I didn't go with the intention of racing. It was just a practice day for us. We are going to try to run at RCE on Tuesdays and we will continue to head up to Maximus on Fridays so we will be around.

I really am liking the car, a little more turn-in would really cut the lap times. I almost feel a push at mid/high speed.

It was nice to put a face with the name.

Nick
Nick-C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 11:43 PM   #14185
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

I would stiffen the rear shock a bit (I think you had an olive on there). Try a silver or blue. I'm running blue at the moment. Also your damping seemed a little light. Try thicker lube. You can also play with battery position. I didn't notice where you had yours but you can try moving them up a bit. That should give you the cut you're looking for.
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2005, 11:54 PM   #14186
Tech Adept
 
Nick-C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 181
Default

I was tossing around a heavier fluid but didn't give it a go today. I was running a silver shock spring and CRC light fluid in the tubes. I will give the CRC heavy a shot my next time out and see how it feels.

Nick
Nick-C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2005, 07:31 PM   #14187
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

What type of fluid do you suggest to run in the tubes for the Hyperform car. I just placed my order for a kit. My curiousity about the car is kicking in. So I had to get one.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2005, 08:03 PM   #14188
Tech Adept
 
Nick-C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 181
Default

It's in the post directly above yours Carlos
Nick-C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2005, 08:12 PM   #14189
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

The most standard of all damper plate or damper tube fluid/greases are the three Trinity damper greases.

http://www.teamtrinity.com/fluids/fluids.html

6071 - White: Light (Generally used on asphalt)
6070 - Red: Medium (For Carpet and front king pins)
6050 - Purple: Heavy (Not used too often)
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series

Last edited by AdrianM; 08-21-2005 at 12:28 AM.
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2005, 08:37 PM   #14190
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

Nick-C, thanks. I did not read the post before I posted that question.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:42 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0