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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-08-2005, 10:14 PM   #12481
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Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
that was the EFRA 1/12 championship in Europe 2 years ago.

at first they allowed 6 and 4 cell to race together.

6 cells could only run a 17T spec motor (i beleive with bushings)

4 cells could run any motor. car weight was lighter

it ended up being a gaggle/fight. drivers protested/complained and the classes were split.


most of the top Euro drivers were running 4-cell, however started complaining after the first qual.the 4 cell guys were faster only in the infield. the 6 cell guys ruled all the straights due to the extra voltage/horsepower, never dumped with that motor, and needed no rec-pks. the 4 cell cars had problems dealing with cars that weighed more and took different lines due to the weight.


Associated may still sell a tape of the 1994 onroad worlds. the 1/12 was run indoor on carpet with 6-cells (1700). talk about FAST! they also show the 1/10 pan roadcourse guys on asphalt, i forgot how fast they were on a road course. after viewing my friends tape, just amazed that the class mostly died....those races were only 4-5 min long
Man them was the good old days...but we are still running 4 cell only for 12th scale
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Old 04-08-2005, 10:40 PM   #12482
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If you want 6 cells, break out the old 10th scale pan cars; they're probably about as popular as 1/12 scale that can accomodate 6 cells. I think you guys are doing the right thing with 4 cells. It may bum some guys out, but it will bum less out in the long run and help to keep the standard going.
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Old 04-09-2005, 07:25 AM   #12483
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Default two rows of diff balls on large diff

Hi,

any side effect of having two rows of diff balls on a large diff
setup ? just happen to have a large of diff balls.
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Old 04-09-2005, 07:50 AM   #12484
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Default Re: two rows of diff balls on large diff

Quote:
Originally posted by ongbenghui
Hi,

any side effect of having two rows of diff balls on a large diff
setup ? just happen to have a large of diff balls.
Probably will be just adding unnecessary weight to the rotating mass of the spur gear. You should be able to achieve a smooth diff action with just 12 balls in the outer row. For stock motor classes, it is even possible with only 6 balls in the inner row.
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Old 04-09-2005, 07:53 AM   #12485
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Hey Bill,

You ready for some outdoor 12th stock action?

Chris
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Old 04-09-2005, 07:58 AM   #12486
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Hey Bill,

You ready for some outdoor 12th stock action?

Chris
Chris,

I'm getting there. Just bought another 12L4 for outdoor. Was working on it last night. Not too sure about the 1/12th outdoor setup for it.

My 12L3 with all mods is for sale.

Was going to concentrate on setting up my XXX-S for outdoor today at Fremont. I think I got that down.

You going to Fremont?
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Old 04-09-2005, 10:38 AM   #12487
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Bill,

Freemont is a little to far afield for me.

You will need to soften the rear of your car to work on asphalt. Use the thin t-plate and go thinner on your damper fluid or were you one of the guys not using damper fluid?

Probably go with pinks on the back and either purple or dbl pinks on the front. Start with purple and if you need more front grip go to dble pinks. For Modesto you will probably need good ride hieght as it's a little bumpy, Ripon you may be able to run lower.

I'm looking forward to seeing how my 3700's perform.

Chris
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Old 04-09-2005, 10:58 AM   #12488
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CE and Bill,

If you guys want to practice on asphalt, Sacramento RC and Hobbies is where I've been practicing and tuning my nitros and ep cars. They have tables, chairs, and electric outlet and 100' x 70' makeshift track. Hardly anyone runs out there so I have the track and tables most to myself.
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Old 04-09-2005, 11:52 AM   #12489
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Hey guys, I just recently aquired a brand new CEFX C12 @ too good of a price to pass up. I'm new to the whole 12th scale game. I've been running touring cars for a while. What kind of quirkiness does this car have, and what should I look out for? Any suggestions and input will be greatly appreciated.


- Stan
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Old 04-09-2005, 12:26 PM   #12490
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Rev,

Sounds interesting but my car is not ready yet and i have a few other projects going at the moment (OD ).

Skinart,

start with stock if you can, find the right tires first. Once you geta good hold of it you will never go back.

Chris
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Old 04-09-2005, 12:40 PM   #12491
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Yeah, I'm definitely gonna start with stock, but I guess it all depends on what people on my track are willing to race. Oh, by the way, how do you guys align the front wheels. I've got the integy setup kit for my sedan, but will it work on the CEFX?

Stan
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Old 04-09-2005, 01:07 PM   #12492
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Default C12

Quote:
Originally posted by skinart76
Yeah, I'm definitely gonna start with stock, but I guess it all depends on what people on my track are willing to race. Oh, by the way, how do you guys align the front wheels. I've got the integy setup kit for my sedan, but will it work on the CEFX?

Stan
There's a lot of information in the forums on the CEFX website. I haven't built my C12 yet but I'm impressed with how much good stuff comes with the kit (lots of titanium, good tires and body).

Niftech makes a really good alignment tool for 1/12th scale cars. It works well for setting toe and camber, plus it can be used to set the rear axle spacing (the wheels must be equidistant from the car centerline).
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Old 04-09-2005, 01:16 PM   #12493
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Default Re: C12

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
There's a lot of information in the forums on the CEFX website. I haven't built my C12 yet but I'm impressed with how much good stuff comes with the kit (lots of titanium, good tires and body).

Niftech makes a really good alignment tool for 1/12th scale cars. It works well for setting toe and camber, plus it can be used to set the rear axle spacing (the wheels must be equidistant from the car centerline).
Ah, cool thanx, I'll go and check it out right now.
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Old 04-09-2005, 01:23 PM   #12494
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Default c12

Where can I get one of these babies? Can't find the anywhere
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Old 04-09-2005, 02:19 PM   #12495
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Default Re: c12

Quote:
Originally posted by zakklp
Where can I get one of these babies? Can't find the anywhere
I was lucky enough to be searching on EBay at the right time!

You are gonna freak when you see how much I paid for it!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5967498377
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