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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-26-2002, 09:57 AM   #1171
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Back from the office everyone-

Kev- Well you see it sort of goes like this, if you place the shim under the front pivot ball then it turns into the corner more but if you place it under the rear pivot ball then it turns in more, no that's not it, it turns in less, wait...but if it turns in less then you want more so you raise the pod and get less traction but then you have less forward bite to so you lower it again and then you....LOL! Now when's that tee time again?LOL

DaveS- Glad to hear you have a Trinity 12th scale. I could send you an e-m of the complete setup just zip your e-m to me again at darnold.il@netzero.net. Concerning the damper tubes I did have to trim them somewhat. I would suggest that you pull them out of the tubes, leaving them attached to the upper plate. Then with them being straight and next to the tubes flex the pod side ways until the t-bar bottoms against the chassis plate (it should do this). Next mark on the plunger where it goes beyound the end of the tube and that's how much you trim. I MAY get up there in August and run a couple of times with you. I'll let you know if and when.
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Old 07-26-2002, 03:25 PM   #1172
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Default Trinity Switchblade 12

Does anybody know where I can get specs for Trinity Switchblade 12

Thank you

Nick
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Old 07-26-2002, 03:35 PM   #1173
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"Tiger".....now thats more like it thats the Dave I know and remember from all the nights at the track and at the dinner table talking about this and that and me still not listening Hey did you know that Octoberfast is the first weekend in Oct 4-6.....thats not too far away. You better hang up the clubs for a while and gets to turning a wrench and not worrring about how many strokes it took you to make the par 5. See ya on the links
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Old 07-28-2002, 07:04 AM   #1174
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Hi all!
I just joined the ranks of 1/12th owners! The car is a used Kawada M300RSR, 6 cell and looks kinda like an Associated panner.

Here's a picture:


I went through most of the thread (40 pages whew) and well only thing I wanna ask is the roll out for a 23 turn modified motor. I was gearing it at 100/20, I think it's quite undergeared.

The 1/12 is amazing to drive. Eats up 1/10 nitro TCs on the straights and infield. I wonder what'll happen if I put a 14x2 in

It isn't really set up yet. Using it exactly the way I got it from the previous owner. Car seems to be like my 414 though, lots of steering on-power, and understeers off power, making it quite stable, and not tail happy at all.

The kawada allows the angle of the upper arm to be changed, from +5, 0 and -5 degrees, and also allows shims to be used to adjust the castor. No idea about how they will affect the car's performance yet, only run 3 packs through it, and it is really a rocket down the straights!

Back to the regular programming....

Regards,
Alvin
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Old 07-28-2002, 07:11 PM   #1175
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Alvin, the car looks great. It sounds like you are way undergeared. I think you could probably gear it so your rollout is around a 45 but i'm not too sure, I don't have much experience with 23 turn motors see what other people have to say about your gearing. That car looks very similar to an Associated 1/12 scale and you could check out their site, www.rc10.com, for set up information. You might also want to find the newer Associated VCS center shock for smoother opperation and easier rebuilds.
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Old 07-28-2002, 07:38 PM   #1176
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tink avink1 is referring to tis pg... http://www.rc10.com/racerhub/other/gearing.htm#RC12LC
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Old 07-28-2002, 08:50 PM   #1177
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Well guys golf season looks over for me since I just messed up my right shoulder today. It's throbing right now and I just took 3 Migrane Exedrin. LOL!

Pulled it in the second round at hole 3 after making par on holes 1 & 2. Hopefully it will be healed by late Aug. so that I can play 18 before the end of my season but I'm not sure. I can still hold my arm up somewhat so that I can drive an rc car (LOL!!!) so I might start practicing now.LOL!!!

nnick- What do you mean by "specs" for the trinity car? Do you mean setups? If you mean setups the general is:
3deg caster, -2deg camber,

.20 front springs (assoc.) with slight droop (space between spring and e-clip),

.74" T-bar (thick) for carpet and .63" T-bar (thin) for asphalt, no shims under T-bar pivot balls,

Green Spring for center shock with 30weight oil and 1/4 of thread collar position,

Trinity Red Stuff in damper tubes,

Tall ball studs for front arm linkage (high roll center) on carpet and Medium balls studs for front arm linkage on asphalt I would guess,

Tall ball studs on steering blocks for steering linkage if servo is mounted down on chassis plate (decreases bump steer),

servo centered on chassis, servo mounted on chassis plate (gives more steering but you don't have to have this).

There's even more info throughout the posts so if you go back I think tire diameters and rear axle cam heights have been discussed along with axle spacing, radion install setup and tweaking the car plus other odds and ends. Hope this helps.

Alvin- Your Kawada looks nice. I personally believe that the Kawada car has some niffty features and I think you will really enjoy your car.
Make sure to check the rear axle spacing if you haven't already so that it's equal from centerline of the car (draw a line back from the pivot ball screws to the rear pod). From the centerline mark you make on the rear pod bottom plate the width should be the same on both sides. This will keep the car from pulling or acting tweaked. Also, have you mounted the receiver on the left side to balance out the chassis or are you puting the transponder mount on that side and puting the receiver behind the servo? BTW, what tire traction addative do you use on your foam tires and how's it working for you (I'm assuming you run asphalt)?

DaveL- Ok, stop killing everyone out there with your gas car racing and get your SpeedMerchant out, or are you out playing golf to? LOL!!
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Old 07-28-2002, 08:51 PM   #1178
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ozone, i was talking about the actual chassis set up, but the gearing should help out too.
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Old 07-28-2002, 09:02 PM   #1179
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Oh nooo say it ant so "Tiger".......you must be too old to play the old mans game . You better stick with some thing like Chess thats more your speed these days . Anyway Sorry about the shoulder but maybe now we dont have to hear the weekly golf outing updates from you ....sorry I could not help myself. Well maybe I will see you at the track now and not hittin golf balls at my car as I drive by the range.
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Old 07-28-2002, 09:11 PM   #1180
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Kev- As RobK would say..."Oooohhhh Nooo Dude" golf balls will be waiting for you as you pull into Venture's parking lot once the shoulder heals up. LOL, LOL!!!
I actually need to contact Rob to see if he wants to go to Venture this Tuesday or Thursday since I have to go up to the office again.

Timmy H. made the show at the Nat's in TC Stock. Congrats to you Timmy. Also Paul L. was sitting fourth, of course the results are already in by now but still congrats to Paul as well.
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Old 07-28-2002, 10:00 PM   #1181
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Cool I cant wait to dodge golf balls


Speaking of the Nats did you see Scotty made all the mains TC stock, TC 19t spec and Won 12th scale stock and TQ'ed.....not too shabby I must say.
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Old 07-28-2002, 10:12 PM   #1182
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Kev- Actually I saw him in the TC stock main but missed the rest. Congrats to him to, the brat (I can say that to him because he's younger than I am, hehehehe, just kidding... about the brat part the rest unfortunately is true). Just talked to Rob and we are going to run up at Venture this Thursday night. If you don't have to work you should show up it would be great to hang out. Jason C. from up in Minnesota just e-m'ed me about some thoughts on a 12th car. He's been wanting to run the class again for almost a year now so it looks like he's finally getting back to it. 12th was his favorite class back in the day and since he just came back to the hobby a year ago he's been pining for the chance to run again. Man 12th really is catching on!
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Old 07-28-2002, 10:57 PM   #1183
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Avink1, Ozone: Thanks! Seems from the chart I am supremely undergeared. the 14T runsn 75/21 = 3.57:1, i'm @ 100/20 5:1 on a 23x1 LOL!

Quote:
Alvin- Your Kawada looks nice. I personally believe that the Kawada car has some niffty features and I think you will really enjoy your car.
Make sure to check the rear axle spacing if you haven't already so that it's equal from centerline of the car (draw a line back from the pivot ball screws to the rear pod). From the centerline mark you make on the rear pod bottom plate the width should be the same on both sides. This will keep the car from pulling or acting tweaked. Also, have you mounted the receiver on the left side to balance out the chassis or are you puting the transponder mount on that side and puting the receiver behind the servo? BTW, what tire traction addative do you use on your foam tires and how's it working for you (I'm assuming you run asphalt)?
darnold, yes I believe I will throughly enjoy this little baby! I may want to pick up a corally or associated too. I live in singapore, and at least can get mail order of these two brands from rccarinternational/towerhobbies. The CRC stuff looks VERY good

Thanks for the tips. I will mark my car accordingly when I'm back tonight. The receiver is on the left side of the car; i believe you can see some left over mounting tape; the receiver is shared between 3 cars!

I don't run traction additive on my foam tires yet, but I know a guy running some kind of sun tan lotion on the tires. Makes them really grippy! Anyhow, I run usually at night, among nitro tourers. The grip without the traction compound is simply fantastic (well at least compaing to my tourer w/sorex tires ), wonder if it'll traction roll with traction compound hehe
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Old 07-29-2002, 04:53 AM   #1184
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darnold:
What I mean by specs is the specification of the car. ie 4cell sadle/6 cell stick, 6cell sadle, chassis is made of frp or carbon, is there a carbon one, do the batteries have straps - like corrally - or you should use tape to hold the batteries - like associated etc.

I wouldn't asked this question but unfortunately I couldn't find those info elsewhere

Things like that


*****Edited
Trinity has just updated their site and added info for 1/12



Thank you

Nick
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Last edited by nnick; 07-29-2002 at 05:06 AM.
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Old 07-29-2002, 05:35 PM   #1185
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what makes this car different from the 12L3? It looks remarkable similar. . .( as in alike. . .)
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