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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-06-2005, 12:32 AM   #10156
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I got my L4 in the mail today. I can't wait to get it put together and run it. Any tricks I should know about for assembly? I like the way the parts are in seperate lettered bags and the instructions look pretty straight forward.
I've heard two way to mount the electrics to the chassis, double sided tape and sho-goo (?). What's the opinion here on which is better?
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Old 01-06-2005, 12:38 AM   #10157
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Double sided tape always works for me. Clean and degrease both mounting surfaces before applying the tape. Trial-fit before actually installing your electronics. That will save you time and tape.
For tips on the L4 car have a look here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/mlufas...2l4/index.html

At the very least put a layer of CA on the edges of the carbon parts to make them last longer.
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Old 01-06-2005, 12:56 AM   #10158
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Thanks for that link, looks like good info.
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Old 01-06-2005, 03:41 AM   #10159
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Thanks Mike, I did ream the spacer while installed in the pod and using the opposite side as a guide. Using the plastic spacers, this worked best but still is nowhere near as freed up as these Carbon fibre adjusters. I'm just suprised there's not a better means to an end that's readily available.

PK
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:40 AM   #10160
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Default Roll Out

Hi, just tinkering mh 1/12th and will run it next week.
Could someone recomned a roll out range for Binary STock Motor or Monster Stock. Its a flowing track asphalte track.

Forgot if its 40-45 for stock and 30-35 for mod?

Would really appreciate it. Thanks a lot!
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Old 01-06-2005, 10:22 AM   #10161
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Quote:
Originally posted by PMK
Thanks Mike, I did ream the spacer while installed in the pod and using the opposite side as a guide. Using the plastic spacers, this worked best but still is nowhere near as freed up as these Carbon fibre adjusters. I'm just suprised there's not a better means to an end that's readily available.

PK
I think you may have something else going on with your rear axle. I have run these delrin rear axle ride height adjusters for over 20 years and I have always been able to make them work. Many years ago we not only had to ream the holes in the ride height adjusters but we also had to very slightly trim or sand the outside of the adjusters so that they would go into the pod plates much easier. With today's pod plates like IRS, CRC, Niftech or any of the other plates, this process no longer seems necessary. Although, you still need to ream the holes in the ride height adjusters. If you have reamed the holes in the adjuster with a 3/8", straight reamer and you rear axle still does not spin freely, try sanding the outside perimeter of the ride height adjuster until they will go into the pod plates with very little effort. If after doing that and your axle still does not spin freely, I would replace the bearings with the best quality bearing you can afford. I am currently testing some KGB, ceramic rear axle bearings and they, so far, are proving to be the best I have ever run. With no wheels on my car the axle will always fall with the clamping screw on the left hub at the bottom. That's a free axle
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Old 01-06-2005, 10:42 AM   #10162
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lem2

40mm or 1.55" for the Monster lighten the brush springs from stock to allow the arm to spin a little freer.

Chris
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Old 01-06-2005, 04:56 PM   #10163
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
lem2
40mm or 1.55" for the Monster lighten the brush springs from stock to allow the arm to spin a little freer.
Chris
Thanks!! Much appreciated! Lem
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:07 PM   #10164
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Unhappy Front ride height too high

Hi I need somebody to help me fix this problem. i am new to 1/12 scale pan car i had this problem i using hara hammer 12 and i used RC12L4 to do convertion. i found out that my front ride height are very high something like 8mm after fit all parts and i used 3mm spacer to shim under the front lower arm but the ride height still 5mm so may i know how to lower it? should i have a tire lathe to true my front foam tire how many mm should i true? or still have other way to make my car lower. thanks
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Old 01-06-2005, 09:46 PM   #10165
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Hi Guo,

Did you true down your tires? How big are they? I usually start off with my Front tires at 1.820".

Chris
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Old 01-06-2005, 10:07 PM   #10166
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hi crimson eagle,

ya i true it almost same with you diameter 47mm
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Old 01-07-2005, 04:03 AM   #10167
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I start with 44.5mm front and 49mm rear. 47mm is too big for front tyres, the car will not handle well, I find at about 42-43mm, the front tyres work best.
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Old 01-07-2005, 12:50 PM   #10168
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Under roar rules how much of the rear of the body may be cut out? Right now I have about a .5mm over hang from the top of the wing. Also on rear width will it stay max 172mm for 2005?

Cheers.
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Old 01-07-2005, 02:27 PM   #10169
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
Under roar rules how much of the rear of the body may be cut out? Right now I have about a .5mm over hang from the top of the wing. Also on rear width will it stay max 172mm for 2005?

Cheers.
As far as I know there's no movement under way to change the 1/12th rear width rule for ROAR. You can actually cut the rear of the body out all the way up to the wing if you want. I usually leave an 1/8" or so to add a bit of ridgidity though.
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Old 01-07-2005, 02:30 PM   #10170
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12th scale is growing... I like a lot of others are getting into 12th scale for the simplicity.... I'm not quitting Tc's just yet, but the thought is there.... Maybe with new bodies like CEFX's we'll see some new GTP bodies being produced for all scales..... There are so many cool looking GTP cars out there that have yet to be made into an RC.... Hopefully ROAR will take notice....
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