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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-20-2003, 11:57 AM   #4486
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
fast- I find it extremely hard to believe that those pods (espically the left side) are perfectly true and completely perpendicular to the chassis. epsically if you have gone through those many other parts, lol. Also are your tubes still perfectly smooth without any fluid in them (ie no binding or anything?) If so you are one lucky guy! lol
change the fluid in the aluminum tubes after every 3 heats (1 days worth of racing) ....no binding when dry or lubed. i must be soooo lucky to have the ONLY other perfect set ever made.

since i started racing asphalt 12th two weeks ago, that chassis is on the verge of getting changed (front end damage). clipped a dot and flew 15 feet. just used a machinists ruler to visually check them out, didn't notice anything bent, etc. i will check the plates again on another flat surface when off the car.

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 10-20-2003 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 10-20-2003, 12:25 PM   #4487
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Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Make that 13 mine and my buddies where all smooth from the get go.... that's 3 sets from me!!!LOL Cypress just likes to dis all of the stuff I own!!!LOL
It's not you impact, just personal experience, I never had an aluminum set that didn't require quite a bit of "re-finishing" in order to work smoothly. I actually went to plastic tubes on my CRC car before I switched over to the Rev. 3. The plastic tubes have always been more consistent for me. My best friend is a CRC sponsored driver and he says they're alot better than the used to be, but I'm still sold on the plastic tubes.
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Old 10-20-2003, 02:20 PM   #4488
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i run for doug and i actually use the ones for a corrally . i would use the ones for irs because of the spring option.
but i got freebies from my buddies at corrally usa so i run those. they all work.
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Old 10-20-2003, 03:42 PM   #4489
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Default IRS Axle

Thanks for all the replies!!

Can anyone tell me the size of the bearing in the spur gear?
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Old 10-20-2003, 03:46 PM   #4490
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The bearing in the spur gear is 1/4 x 3/8 unflanged.

D.P.
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Old 10-20-2003, 03:55 PM   #4491
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D.P.

Thanks!! Now if the parts I ordered from Speedmerchant will ever show up my Quad12 will be up and running!!!
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Old 10-21-2003, 05:28 PM   #4492
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Hey Mr. Powell,

Any time or progress on making a battery retention system for the CRC car similar to the one you designed for you car.

Eric from Tucson

I've seen one of you chassis' a guy that I race with at Competition Hobbies bought one, looks very impressive. I've been trying to find a used 12L3 for cheep so that I can try your chassis, but no luck yet.
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Old 10-21-2003, 06:12 PM   #4493
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Hey guys,
On carpet, what would be the effect of going from a grey to a pink rear? Im loking for a little more forward bite and better wear, I know the pinks will wear better, but any comments on the bite?
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Old 10-21-2003, 06:40 PM   #4494
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saw this on the TRINITY talk site

http://www.rcracechat.com/forum/attachments/JG_3.JPG

someone was asking who makes this 12th


ERIC

DP also makes his chassis in a tape version. in MOD some like to run the rec-pk on the t-bar. he also sells chassis parts separate so those who chose to can stick with their disk dampner system


PINK tires on the rear. i tried it to get more grip but it was too much forward bite at times and they caused the car to be twitchy in the turns. when the rear end traction breaks it is more violent, made the car hard for me to drive. i went to WHITES although softer than PINKS they were better on our carpet when it was new and once the black groove set in they were almost like the PINKS. if you want more traction than GREYS try the TRC GRANITE Compound: half BLACK outside / half WHITE inside.


Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 10-21-2003 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 10-21-2003, 06:55 PM   #4495
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fike
Hey Mr. Powell,

Any time or progress on making a battery retention system for the CRC car similar to the one you designed for you car.

Eric from Tucson

I've seen one of you chassis' a guy that I race with at Competition Hobbies bought one, looks very impressive. I've been trying to find a used 12L3 for cheep so that I can try your chassis, but no luck yet.
Eric,
You are not the only one to ask that. I will borrow a CK from one of my local customers and get some dimensions off of the chassis. He doesn't need it anymore, he stepped up to a Quad12.

Shouldn't be a problem, the posts should be the same as I use on the Q12 plus or minus a little in height and the carbon fiber battery hold down would also be a shorter version of the one on the Q12.

Also, rather than buying a used 12L3 and tossing most of it. Pick up a front end(old school or dynamic, your choice), Micro shock, IRS pod plates and 12 ball diff and you're mostly there.
I've got the carbon fiber parts covered and I make T-bars also.

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Old 10-21-2003, 07:11 PM   #4496
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Fast - That looks like a P.T.I. Virus. I think its a Japanese company. They also make a sedan with rocker style suspension (2 rear shocks and 1 front).
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Old 10-21-2003, 08:22 PM   #4497
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if it is a PTI? it is heavily changed from the last one i saw pictured which had no floating pod or t-bar...it relied on the flex of a narrow cut section.
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Old 10-21-2003, 08:57 PM   #4498
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Default Just getting into 12th scale!!!

I am just entering th 12th scale scene and pretty much decided on CRC Carpet Knife, GM SX9 speed control, and a P2k2 stock motor.

Now could anyone give me suggestions on servos?

Thanks, grump
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:07 PM   #4499
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Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
if it is a PTI? it is heavily changed from the last one i saw pictured which had no floating pod or t-bar...it relied on the flex of a narrow cut section.
Looks like a home built to me. The chassis looks like it was cut from some cheap carbon fiber that showed up on Ebay a while back. Too thin and way to much flex for a racing chassis.

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Old 10-21-2003, 09:14 PM   #4500
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grump- I would highly suggest reconsidering and looking at the Speemerchant Rev. 3, it is very similar to the CRC knife, however there are a few distinct features that make it a much better car.
-Adjustable battery position (huge in 12th scale)
-Adjustable and smooth side links
-stiff chassis (the crc flexes alot in the rear)
-low roll centers (the crc ones are sky high and to make the car handle considerably better you have to install speedmerchant side links, which have adjustable roll centers)
-Old style front end, its much simplier and its still the hookup for stock, espically for people just getting into 12th scale. the dyanmic strut from end is very poorly molded and requires alot of handfitting to work properly.

Also I would suggest a Monster stock motor, they are the best for any track hands down.

I have not had any expeariances with GM speedo's so I cannot comment, however I will say I have yet to be dispointed with an LRP quantom comp

As far as servo's each company basically makes a servo for 12th scale. All of them are pretty good, I personally run airtonics, however I have seen some bad batches of them from time to time, however I still go back to em, lol. Futaba and KO Propo are the other choices that I have heard good things about (the KO servo is wicked fast though, and I have heard its to the point where its detrimental, even for certain not to be named A main mod 12th scale drivers, lol)

if you have any questions please feel free to ask!
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