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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-01-2015, 07:50 PM   #41881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juniorabca View Post
Thanks for the answers.. It looks like I might have to try it and see how much it frees the rear pod up. I only have some Novak 16ga wire on hand but if it works better I might have to find me some TQ Wire then..

Jon
+1 on the TQ 16ga
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:02 PM   #41882
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Originally Posted by Juniorabca View Post
Does anyone know of a good place to get the slapmaster products in canada. I have been hearing about their thrust bearing being the one of choice and would like to think about upgrading the one that I had in a box of tools that worked from long ago..

Jon
I ship to Canada all the time. I use USPS 1st class international for $8. Takes about 8-10 business days.

I currently do not have a Canadian distributor.

Brian
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:12 PM   #41883
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I ship to Canada all the time. I use USPS 1st class international for $8. Takes about 8-10 business days.

I currently do not have a Canadian distributor.

Brian
Thanks for letting me know this.. That isn't too bad of a cost for shipping..
I will likely be looking to order some items in the near future for my 12 scale car..

Jon
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Old 01-02-2015, 08:54 AM   #41884
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Originally Posted by Juniorabca View Post
I have been reading back in this thread and seen some pictures of people running what looks like 16ga wire to their motors. I am wondering if this is common or just what some people are doing? What are the benefits of running that thin of wire as opposed to 14ga that I am currently running on a 13.5T in blinky mode. Will the 16ga wire handle the power?

Jon
When Alexander Hagber came to Taiwan, I asked him about the wire gauge question. He told me 16g is absolutely fine for mod racing. He didnt noticed any power lost due to wire gauge. He was running 4.0t and with boost and things like that.
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:43 AM   #41885
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And on the Wire size I have been using 18g for all my 1s stock classes. ip to 13.5t zero heating issues of the wire. for the battery I like mine short and 16g for every car.

resistance does change as the heat increases so you need to watch out for that. I go by Wattach expect through a wire not the amperage. for me its 250w or less I use 18g Above that to 500w I use 16.
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Old 01-04-2015, 06:58 AM   #41886
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TKO anti-slip tape review.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=A20w8VpUW4I

TKO Racing website www.tkocompetitiondev.com

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 01-04-2015 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:09 AM   #41887
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Anybody here race on concrete? How is the surface and how did you prep it?
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Old 01-04-2015, 03:50 PM   #41888
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Anyone have any information about much more 1s ESC release date?
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:43 PM   #41889
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Default xenon camber angle steering blocks

can one of the engineers or suspension gurus out there please explain what is the supposed advantage of using Xenon steering blocks, the ones that have camber angle built into the steering block itself? I'm having some trouble wrapping my head around the effect of using a "pre-cambered" steering block vs the usual method of setting the camber just by adjusting the lean angle of the kingpin.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:31 PM   #41890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
can one of the engineers or suspension gurus out there please explain what is the supposed advantage of using Xenon steering blocks, the ones that have camber angle built into the steering block itself? I'm having some trouble wrapping my head around the effect of using a "pre-cambered" steering block vs the usual method of setting the camber just by adjusting the lean angle of the kingpin.
I have been curious on this myself so I did some digging.
Below is the explanation from reflex racing.

Use these steering hubs with built in camber to get less roll center change in the front end of you 12th scale. With the camber being built into the knuckle, the angle of the king pin is much more straight, which allows the car to maintain full tire contact patch while at the same time allowing for roll center to stay closer to neutral. This translates into a smoother car that has all the steering, but is more predictable.

BD
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:44 PM   #41891
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Good to note above that this is when the kingpins inserts are installed backwards from what XENON recommends.

With the kingpin angled inwards more, there is a higher camber gain and roll center change in the front end. This makes the car more aggressive and provides more steering in the middle of the corner. This is good to use in combination with longer upper arms. When used with no spacers on the upper arm in the AE style front ends, the angled in kingpin makes the car very aggressive.
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:31 AM   #41892
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Think of it this way...when you adjust the upper arm for camber you are shortening it. When you shorten the upper arm you decrease the radius the that the the upper eyelet travels in. This increases the camber gain. If you can put the camber in the steering block then you can leave the upper arm longer and decrease the camber gain.
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Old 01-06-2015, 04:06 AM   #41893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Think of it this way...when you adjust the upper arm for camber you are shortening it. When you shorten the upper arm you decrease the radius the that the the upper eyelet travels in. This increases the camber gain. If you can put the camber in the steering block then you can leave the upper arm longer and decrease the camber gain.
Yes but that's not all that is going on. Keeping the kingpin upright yet still having camber through use of an angled block will reduce steering axis inclination and increase steering axis offset (scrub radius). These two changes will have significantly more impact on handling than a fraction of a millimeter change in upper arm length will.

Running it the other way around as Christian suggested will increase steering axis inclination and reduce offset which should make steering dramatically more aggressive.
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:16 AM   #41894
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Great Product. Keeps the Battery in place on my 12th scale and keeps the chassis from getting all scratched up too.

Also his flat and finished diff rings and ceramic balls are awesome. Had it in the car for 2 months with no maintenance.
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:54 PM   #41895
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Default TKO Differential Rings

http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/tko-b5-pan-car-diff-rings/

TKO offers differential rings and they look SAWEEEET!

I'll have to order some and try them out and do a product review for you guys.
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