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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-14-2014, 08:07 AM   #41146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peakki View Post
Thoughts about Xenon front end? Seen some wild info about how to use angled steering blocks. For example 3 degrees positive camber on steering block and then changed eyelet turnbuckle length to achieve -1 camber at the wheel.

Any tips about xenon front and and experiences how to use angled steering blocks are more than welcome, before I decide to make a hole to my wallet
When using the Xenon front end you dont use the blocks to get Pos camber. You use them for negative camber in the kingpin and then set your upper link up to get your final camber you run.

Running the kingpin inclination allows the camber to stay flatter as you turn the wheels. Normally when you turn the wheel the camber increases also due to caster. With the inclination this goes away. I found that normally I run -1 degree of camber with straight king pins and have to run 1.5 with inclined kingpins to get the same amount of steering but the car doesnt scrub in the center of the corner like straight pins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
Using knuckles with the holes for the kingpin and axle at some angle other than perpendicular lets you change the roll center without changing camber. Whether you find this useful or not is up to you!
It also keeps the camber gain down when turning the wheels due to caster affecting camber when turning. This is the biggest advantage of it. It really smooths the car out in the center of the corner.

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Old 08-14-2014, 08:11 AM   #41147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker View Post
tire of slop I just put enlarge the hole on my X12's steering block to fit a AE kingpin and CRC brass ball. hopefully I can reduce slop on my car.

never understand why Xray designed their steering base off AE instead of CRC which is far superior

I use the Xray front end but I use Xenon pivot balls, hing pins and steering blocks. Had this front end on my car for well over a year and it would be very hard to find a 12th scale with less slop. Granted its not the cheapest route to go but it will take the slop out and will not wear out. I used the AE components before Xenon ones came out.

The new xray 15 will have some changes to the front end to help with the slop in generates as well as some new adjustments the front end didnt have before.

EA
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:33 AM   #41148
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
The new xray 15 will have some changes to the front end to help with the slop in generates as well as some new adjustments the front end didnt have before.

EA
Will there be an easier way of adjusting this?;

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Old 08-14-2014, 09:06 AM   #41149
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If your idea of easier is shims and lower arms designed to be shimmed out then yes.

EA
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:23 PM   #41150
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
If your idea of easier is shims and lower arms designed to be shimmed out then yes.

EA
It's interesting that the adjustment is shown on the setup sheets, but isn't mentioned in the manual etc
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:38 PM   #41151
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
It's interesting that the adjustment is shown on the setup sheets, but isn't mentioned in the manual etc
Its something that we have been doing ourselves since the car came out but they never changed the mold to allow it to be done easier. I hoped they would do that when they made the new lower arm last year with the insert but it wasnt included in the updates. Hopefully it does make it this year.

It was toward the top of my "wants" list to them.

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Old 08-15-2014, 02:20 AM   #41152
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Its something that we have been doing ourselves since the car came out but they never changed the mold to allow it to be done easier. I hoped they would do that when they made the new lower arm last year with the insert but it wasnt included in the updates. Hopefully it does make it this year.

It was toward the top of my "wants" list to them.

EA
Agreed, I was speaking to Olly Jefferies and others about it and they mention 'well, you need to Dremel off....'
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:01 AM   #41153
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Hi guys,

I'm looking to get a VBC Lightning 12 for my first 1/12

Does anyone know if this is a good overall kit for asphalt and carpet racing?

Thanks everyone.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:42 AM   #41154
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Originally Posted by Texco View Post
Hi guys,

I'm looking to get a VBC Lightning 12 for my first 1/12

Does anyone know if this is a good overall kit for asphalt and carpet racing?

Thanks everyone.
Olly Jefferies won the UK Mod national rounds with it against Dave Shashett etc. In fact I don't think he lost a round of quali. (This was on carpet)

BUT, there will be a new version out very soon, hopefully the next few weeks
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:05 AM   #41155
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Olly Jefferies won the UK Mod national rounds with it against Dave Shashett etc. In fact I don't think he lost a round of quali. (This was on carpet)

BUT, there will be a new version out very soon, hopefully the next few weeks
From memory Ollie won the first 3 rounds with an Associated and the last 3 with an Xray. There are a few UK drivers planning to run the Lightning this season but none of the front runners as far as I am aware.
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:26 AM   #41156
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Originally Posted by Paul Lomas View Post
From memory Ollie won the first 3 rounds with an Associated and the last 3 with an Xray. There are a few UK drivers planning to run the Lightning this season but none of the front runners as far as I am aware.
Yep, he changed at Christmas, mid season.

I meant rounds as in rounds of quali, not rounds of the championship.

P.S. I haven't broken or replaced a single part on my Xray X12, I broke something almost every meeting with my CRC.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #41157
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Olly Jefferies won the UK Mod national rounds with it against Dave Shashett etc. In fact I don't think he lost a round of quali. (This was on carpet)

BUT, there will be a new version out very soon, hopefully the next few weeks
Are you talking about the xray x12? I don't think Olly ran a VBC, unless I am just completely out of the loop. Stranger things have happened, though...
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:16 AM   #41158
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Are you talking about the xray x12? I don't think Olly ran a VBC, unless I am just completely out of the loop. Stranger things have happened, though...
You're absolutely right, for some reason I thought he was talking about the Xray X12, not the Lightning 12.

Need more sleep
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:04 AM   #41159
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Originally Posted by Texco View Post
Hi guys,

I'm looking to get a VBC Lightning 12 for my first 1/12

Does anyone know if this is a good overall kit for asphalt and carpet racing?

Thanks everyone.
The Lightning 12 has had pretty good success here in the US over the past season. Dave Ehrlich finished 3rd at carpet nats in modified with it, while Max Kuenning finished 3rd in mod at IIC last fall with the car. I have had pretty good success with it in both 13.5 and modified over the past year, and am looking forward to driving the car at worlds this fall (Max will be there as well.)

I believe we have a bunch of folks over in Asia who have raced the car on asphalt, although setups are typically difficult to get from those guys.

You will likely want to replace the camber and steering links with either Ti or the VBC hardened steel versions, but otherwise the car is awesome with a lot of good option parts and setup options (transverse and inline are both possible, for instance.)

There should be a bunch of setups on petitrc, although I think a lot of them are mine (whoops!):

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/vbcr...ghtning12.html

Let us know if you have any other questions, either here or in the Lightning 12 thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
You're absolutely right, for some reason I thought he was talking about the Xray X12, not the Lightning 12.

Need more sleep
No worries! It looks like you are on the mailing list for Worlds. Looking forward to hopefully getting the chance to meet in person down in FL.

- Chris
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:31 PM   #41160
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
No worries! It looks like you are on the mailing list for Worlds. Looking forward to hopefully getting the chance to meet in person down in FL.

- Chris
Yep, I'll be there for both events with the GB team
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