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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-11-2014, 10:26 AM   #41116
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If you folks were buying a new 1/12 chassis today, which would you buy? I'm looking at replacing my X12 '14 to try another brand and am looking for suggestions.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:01 AM   #41117
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If you folks were buying a new 1/12 chassis today, which would you buy? I'm looking at replacing my X12 '14 to try another brand and am looking for suggestions.
Speed merchant Rev8 Pro when it comes out.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:11 PM   #41118
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Speed merchant Rev8 Pro when it comes out.
Yeah I keep hearing that - but my issue is ordering from SM. Everything seems to take forever.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:18 PM   #41119
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+1 on the Speedmerchant. Best car I've ever driven. Bruce had been tied up getting things ready for the paved nats. Things should be better now.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:33 PM   #41120
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Cool

Some things in life are worth the wait

It's not as if 1/12 scales need a lot of spares
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Old 08-11-2014, 01:07 PM   #41121
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Some things in life are worth the wait

It's not as if 1/12 scales need a lot of spares
The amount of spares depends on the track you race at and the individual skill level, some drivers (like me ) hit more things. Having a great car that sits on the shelf while you wait for parts sucks. If I were buying today I'd buy the CRC car, parts are everywhere and as CRC has drivers at most big races support should be easier to come by.
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:27 PM   #41122
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Originally Posted by lpittman View Post
If you folks were buying a new 1/12 chassis today, which would you buy? I'm looking at replacing my X12 '14 to try another brand and am looking for suggestions.
Hay buddy,

I just picked up a Yokomo R12C3 to try, going to keep the Xray, maybe race mod as well.....
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:31 PM   #41123
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Our track has a very good 12th scale following, AE, CRC and lately VBC are the platforms of choice from what I've seen. But we have team drivers from all 3, so it figures
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:39 PM   #41124
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Hi everyone i'm new and getting back into RC after many years out. Used to race TC. I have just built a Yokomo RC12C3 Kit. I have a problem where my supplied servo saver does not fit my Sanwa SRG-HS meant for 1/12th. Do i need to buy an optional servo saver for a mini servo?
Overall a good experience to build but there were several screws missing which is a disappointment. I look forward to reading this forum.
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:34 PM   #41125
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Originally Posted by lpittman View Post
If you folks were buying a new 1/12 chassis today, which would you buy? I'm looking at replacing my X12 '14 to try another brand and am looking for suggestions.
Any of the top name brands are going to do well for you. The 2 questions you have to ask yourself is: 1) Which design features do you like best. Most cars are designed along the same lines so it is the little things here that draw the distinction. And 2) Parts support...the question here is do you care if there is local parts support or not? Sometimes question 1 will trump question 2 if there is a design out there you like enough to not have local parts support for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BKUK View Post
Hi everyone i'm new and getting back into RC after many years out. Used to race TC. I have just built a Yokomo RC12C3 Kit. I have a problem where my supplied servo saver does not fit my Sanwa SRG-HS meant for 1/12th. Do i need to buy an optional servo saver for a mini servo?
Overall a good experience to build but there were several screws missing which is a disappointment. I look forward to reading this forum.
Most likely the car came with a servo saver made for a Futaba servo. Look for a Kimbro small servo saver for the spline pattern for your servo. I believe Airtronics has the same splines as Sanwa:

http://www.amain.com/Kimbrough-23-Sp...Servos-1/p4581
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:42 PM   #41126
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Thanks InspGadgt. What I don't like about the XRay is all the slop/play in the front end. Love the rest of the car and find it drives okay. There is no parts locally anymore so that is a non-issue.

As far as design features well, I'm hoping to try other brands to see just exactly what those other features are and how they feel.
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:24 PM   #41127
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!/12th tires are all foam. They are generally trued down from as sold size for performance reasons. They do not need to be trued between rounds, though some racers will smooth them up.
2S is raced in Japan, everywhere else it's 1 cell.
NO, all brands are not compatible with all cars, though most are interchangeable. Yokomo in particular uses a unique wheel.
Compared to offroad cars 1/12th is very low maintenance.
They look the same, but are all slightly different. Buy one that some of your local racers have so you can get help if you need it.
Thank you Lonny. Very helpful.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:56 PM   #41128
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Thanks InspGadgt. What I don't like about the XRay is all the slop/play in the front end. Love the rest of the car and find it drives okay. There is no parts locally anymore so that is a non-issue.

As far as design features well, I'm hoping to try other brands to see just exactly what those other features are and how they feel.
Slop in the steering links is pretty easy to get rid of...slop in the suspension pivots not so much. If it is steering link slop that worries you just stick some cotton inside the ball cup before you snap it on...that takes up the slop. Then if it is too tight you'll need to take some out...too loose you'll need to add more.

If it is suspension pivot slop you'll want to look at the CRC either the Xti or the Altered Ego. While some companies have a screw on the lower arm to take out slop in the lower pivot ball...only CRC has a pillow ball joint for the upper suspension pivot point so you can remove slop out of both the upper and lower outside pivot points. You will still have some slop develop at the inner pin point though.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:06 PM   #41129
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So, speaking of slop... I have a 12R5.2 and I think I got overzealous with reaming the steering block hole for the king pin. Out of the bag, the king pins would bind a little in the blocks. I figured that was bad so I reamed the blocks until the king pins would fall through under their own weight. Well, now one side has some slop and when I look closely, it's coming from the block on the king pin moving a bit side to side.

Do you guys ream that hole? If so, when do you stop? Is a little tightness ok or should I still be going for gravity-fall-through loose?
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:12 PM   #41130
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For most pan cars you want the knuckle to slide freely on the kingpin...if not the king pin could bind in the knuckle with some preload on the spring causing some crazy handling characteristics. Unfortunately this also means they wear out faster and get sloppy faster. This is where I like some F1 designs better in that they fix the knuckle to the kingpin so the kingpin doesn't slide through the knuckle.
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