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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-13-2014, 04:17 AM   #40516
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Well, I was running the servo flat to the chassis with the horn above, which meant very little bump-toe, or maybe just a little bump toe-in. So I've now mounted it on an angle, with the horn below, and now there's a lot of bump toe-out. I'll give this a run on Friday and see how I go.

Just to clarify, by the links, did you mean the other end of the steering links at the knuckle?
That's odd...usually the angled servo has less bump steer.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:24 AM   #40517
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That's odd...usually the angled servo has less bump steer.


These are not my cars, but they are a fairly good representation of how things looked before and after I changed the car.

Before the outside of the steering links were just below the inside at the servo, like on the car with the servo flat.

After I angled the servo the outside of the steering links is much higher than the inside like on the car on the left.

Now as the suspension is compressed, in the plane of the chassis, the distance between the inside and outside link mounting point is shorter, rather than longer, and I have bump toe-out instead of bump toe-in.
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:17 PM   #40518
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Good to see that you went faster for the changes.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:28 PM   #40519
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Got some questions in regards to the Pro One RC tires. What compounds are working best for stock class(13.5t blinky) racing? Also, can you true the rear wheels on a standard arbor, or do I need their arbor?

Also, thinking of trying my hand at mod. Was thinking to start, would use a 10.5T or maybe a 7.5T. What should I aim for a starting roll out with both of these motors?(no boost)
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:21 PM   #40520
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
Got some questions in regards to the Pro One RC tires. What compounds are working best for stock class(13.5t blinky) racing? Also, can you true the rear wheels on a standard arbor, or do I need their arbor?

Also, thinking of trying my hand at mod. Was thinking to start, would use a 10.5T or maybe a 7.5T. What should I aim for a starting roll out with both of these motors?(no boost)
Glad to hear you are looking to try the Pro One tires! For 13.5 I recommend using Green rears with Team Purple fronts, but you might end up liking magenta or pink fronts more. I find the TP fronts to be a bit edgy up front but retain steering throughout the run without bogging down like the magentas do. You can try other rears, but blues will likely lock the rear in too much. Don't be afraid to try pinks or magentas, either.

A normal arbor is fine for the Pro One fronts, but you will need the Pro One arbor to true the rears.

I have never run a 10.5 or a 7.5, but let's try some deduction here. If I run ~40 mm rollout with a 3.5 or 4t motor, ~85 mm rollout with a 13.5t motor, and ~95 mm with a 17.5t, why not try ~70 mm with the 10.5t and ~55 mm with the 7.5t? You will want to start looking at speedo temps with the 7.5t, by the way, although my guess is that most speedos should handle it just fine.
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:56 PM   #40521
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Thanks for the quick response. Will order some up and give them a try.

I split the rear axle on my X-ray, so, got to get a new axle anyways, might as well try something different. RC Discount the best place to get Pro One?

Forgot to ask, what diff. rings fit the pro one axle? (can I use the X-ray rings)and what wheel bolts?

Last edited by SLOWINSLOWOUT; 03-13-2014 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:11 PM   #40522
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
Thanks for the quick response. Will order some up and give them a try.

I split the rear axle on my X-ray, so, got to get a new axle anyways, might as well try something different. RC Discount the best place to get Pro One?

Forgot to ask, what diff. rings fit the pro one axle? (can I use the X-ray rings)and what wheel bolts?
discountrcstore.com is the source.

the hubs use 4-40 cap screws and the standard diff ring like IRS or AE. I don't know if Xray was dopey enough to make a non-standard diff ring, but worst case a pair of AE diff rings shouldn't be more than $3
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:38 PM   #40523
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Does anyone know the ulti equivalent for bsr blue, green and black?
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:53 AM   #40524
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blue is similar to xmedium. green is similar to xsoft. black i dunno.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:25 AM   #40525
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Thanks Andrew. Also looking for the equivalent to yellows.
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:53 AM   #40526
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Does anyone know the ulti equivalent for bsr blue, green and black?
Here is a link to a chart showing their shore rating

http://www.ultitires.com/products/fo...th-foam-tires/

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Old 03-15-2014, 12:07 AM   #40527
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Hi guys, I'm new to 1/12 racing and I have a AE 12R5.2. Are there any good setups for asphalt and carpet that someone would be willing to share? Where I race there are not a lot of carpet tracks close by and there mainly is asphalt tracks.
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:45 AM   #40528
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Hi guys, I'm new to 1/12 racing and I have a AE 12R5.2. Are there any good setups for asphalt and carpet that someone would be willing to share? Where I race there are not a lot of carpet tracks close by and there mainly is asphalt tracks.
I think I recognise your handle as an Australian one. I hope this helps.

Here's a set-up for an unprepared Boral Coat (painted concrete) surface, but it will work for asphalt (Riverstone, Sydney):

Front:
Ride height: 4.5 mm (no lower than 4 mm)
Springs: 0.020" (standard)
King pin grease: 50K to 80K (not critical, these are gas car diff grease weights)
Caster: ~3.5 degrees (standard)
Servo: run on an angle if you can, so that the steering links mount lower at the servo than at the steering knuckle (see previous posts)
Toe: slight toe-out.
Camber: 1 degree to 1.5 degree.

Rear:
Battery Position: run it across the chassis as far backward as possible.
Side-springs: blue (standard) (I'm thinking about going softer)
I'm not sure on side-tube fluid, I guess 20k or so (I'm running a converted 5.1 with a Side shock oil: 30 to 35 wt).
Centre shock oil: 25 wt.
Centre shock spring: silver (softer than standard for the small bumps).
Ride-height: 4.5 mm (no lower than 4 mm)
Droop: 1 mm lower at the rear of the pod than the chassis, with the wheels unloaded.
Chassis sag: None (i.e. chassis is level with the pod when the car is ready to run)

Other:
Motor: 10.5 blinky (Reedy Sonic)
Roll-out: 65 to 70 mm.
Body: something that's not to aggressive, e.g. Blackart Audi R8 would be good.
Roll-over antenna: run one, even if you have no antenna! (saves lots of time in accidents)
Weight balance: left to right balanced.
Most important: DO NOT trust the kit bumper. It is completely useless. Make your own bumper with foam, or look for some RC12L3 or XRAY corner chassis protectors.
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Old 03-16-2014, 05:38 AM   #40529
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Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
I think I recognise your handle as an Australian one. I hope this helps.

Here's a set-up for an unprepared Boral Coat (painted concrete) surface, but it will work for asphalt (Riverstone, Sydney):

Front:
Ride height: 4.5 mm (no lower than 4 mm)
Springs: 0.020" (standard)
King pin grease: 50K to 80K (not critical, these are gas car diff grease weights)
Caster: ~3.5 degrees (standard)
Servo: run on an angle if you can, so that the steering links mount lower at the servo than at the steering knuckle (see previous posts)
Toe: slight toe-out.
Camber: 1 degree to 1.5 degree.

Rear:
Battery Position: run it across the chassis as far backward as possible.
Side-springs: blue (standard) (I'm thinking about going softer)
I'm not sure on side-tube fluid, I guess 20k or so (I'm running a converted 5.1 with a Side shock oil: 30 to 35 wt).
Centre shock oil: 25 wt.
Centre shock spring: silver (softer than standard for the small bumps).
Ride-height: 4.5 mm (no lower than 4 mm)
Droop: 1 mm lower at the rear of the pod than the chassis, with the wheels unloaded.
Chassis sag: None (i.e. chassis is level with the pod when the car is ready to run)

Other:
Motor: 10.5 blinky (Reedy Sonic)
Roll-out: 65 to 70 mm.
Body: something that's not to aggressive, e.g. Blackart Audi R8 would be good.
Roll-over antenna: run one, even if you have no antenna! (saves lots of time in accidents)
Weight balance: left to right balanced.
Most important: DO NOT trust the kit bumper. It is completely useless. Make your own bumper with foam, or look for some RC12L3 or XRAY corner chassis protectors.
Thanks mate, yeah I'm an Aussie.
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:17 AM   #40530
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Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
Thanks mate, yeah I'm an Aussie.
What I forgot to mention is tyres. I'm using Ulti Hard front, and Ulti Soft rear. Speedmind 30R and 32F works well too and lasts a bit longer.
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