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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-12-2001, 11:34 PM   #391
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Quote:
Originally posted by Modena AL
Bloody transponder not included?????..............I don't want it then

Why would they put it on the picture if its not included.......retards
a dummy transponder wont let you be the champ !
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Old 12-13-2001, 12:12 AM   #392
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Default What Type Of Gears?

Hey Guys, What Type of Gears Have You Found to Work The Best With Your 1/12? I'm Not Sure What Type To Try! Also 64 or 48 Pitch?

Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2001, 01:29 AM   #393
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Default delta car

hi

manticore you have a delta phaser ?

is beatiful old car ,but is not longer in production i think

MERRY CHISTMAS AT ALL
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Old 12-13-2001, 07:08 AM   #394
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Default reply to gear?

i was told to use 64 pitch gears over using 48 cause of the fine dialing of gear ratio,and a more accurate roll out. but 48 will work also. its just that 64 is more fine tuned....
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Old 12-13-2001, 07:20 AM   #395
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Quote:
Bloody transponder not included?????..............I don't want it then


I agree who started putting dummy transponders in the pics of race cars.....and why wouldn't they include a $10 dummy transponder with a car that costs so much???? I mean all the REAL racecars include them now......don't they....LOL
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Old 12-13-2001, 07:22 AM   #396
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Default IRS axle

Ty: Are you sure that the IRS axle uses the "D" type diff rings??? I was going to buy the IRS axle for my SpeedMerchant Rev.3 (even though I don't like the axle color ), but when I viewed the photo on the IRS web site http://www.teamirsrc.com/irs131.html the diff rings were standard round ones. Unless the photo is wrong, I really couldn't justify spending $45 to replace the standard Associated axle for the IRS unit. Also, I like the fact that the left diff hub on the Associate axle threads on, rather than clamping or using a grub screw.

BTW, when I had a Carpet Knife it had the "D" rings on the diff. My, Rev.3 came with an Associate axle that uses round diff rings. The thing is, when driving the car, I can't tell the difference??? What advantage do "D" rings provide?
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Old 12-13-2001, 07:49 AM   #397
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Default Re: What Type Of Gears?

Quote:
Originally posted by AllPimpRacing
Hey Guys, What Type of Gears Have You Found to Work The Best With Your 1/12? I'm Not Sure What Type To Try! Also 64 or 48 Pitch?

Thanks!
I mostly run a 100T 64p spur with between 25T - 30T pinion with a Green Machine 3
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Old 12-13-2001, 08:16 AM   #398
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Default Re: delta car

Quote:
Originally posted by corally
hi

manticore you have a delta phaser ?

is beatiful old car ,but is not longer in production i think

MERRY CHISTMAS AT ALL
I dont remember is the name is phaser: it has three shocks in the rear end work with a hinge rear suspension.
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Old 12-13-2001, 08:27 AM   #399
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Geppetto,
The Knife includes the IRS axle with D rings. The advantage is the axle is fiberglass (that is why it is yellow) and it does not break as easily as a graphite axle. Plus using the D rings (from a Losi XX) locks the rings in so the rings don't slip on the hubs. You can of course glue or pin the rings on a regular axle. Niftech also makes a great axle. Hope that helps.
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Old 12-13-2001, 08:42 AM   #400
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Default delta

No the phaser have a single shock like rc12l3 and at the front

is simple a tube whit two block.

I think is date 1985.

Bye
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Old 12-13-2001, 09:12 AM   #401
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Ty: The inclusion of an IRS axle with the Knife must be relatively new, because my Knife did not have a yellow axle. What do you think about photo in the link that I included in my previous post??? According to IRS that is the axle they recommend (I got e-mail from IRS), but as you can see the diff rings are not the "D" type??? Maybe they have upgraded???
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Old 12-13-2001, 09:41 AM   #402
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hi!
Does anyone has any feedback about kawada 1/12th?
thanks
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Old 12-13-2001, 11:02 AM   #403
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Default reply to the crc stuff and irs axle

i just got through talking to these guys and calandra said that the picture on their site was an early prototype picture and that what i got in my bloody knife kit is correct.cause in the picture,i said i didn't get the red transponder the shiny turnbuckles or the red axle . i still think thats bogus....but as for the guys at irs. he said that he makes both shafts for calandra the yellow stealth is a fiberglass shaft and the black with red hubs that comes in the bloody knife kit is a graphite shaft, which is lighter than the yellow but not as strong...hope this helps you all...it did me.. boo!!! to the false advertising on crc's bloody knife.
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Old 12-13-2001, 11:20 AM   #404
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Geppetto,
IRS must have changed it, because my friend just bought that IRS 1/12th scale diff kit for his brand new RC12L3 and it includes D rings and the cool machined left side hub as well. Call Irrgang and make sure the part number is correct and it is now for D rings. www.stormerhobbies.com has a good selection of IRS stuff for a good price. Let me know how it works out for you.
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Old 12-13-2001, 11:56 AM   #405
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Quote:
Originally posted by wiley
hi!
Does anyone has any feedback about kawada 1/12th?
thanks
last time i talk to ruf he had the car and like it. It a bit longer then a L3 so it made it handle a bit better. I have not heard from him in awaile.

You may want to send him a e-mail and ask him about it.
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