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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-29-2012, 02:29 PM   #38191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Stick
No Stick

It's still 12th scale

The coolest class of RC racing cars ever !

Right ?
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:45 PM   #38192
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post

If you want to be assured of having countered every possible mishap....
Heres another possibility I have seen happen more than once just in club racing: the rollover stick comes lose or breaks and starts to drag the poor saps receiver wire around and they have to retire from the race. That's impossible on my car.
With 2.4Ghz there's no need to attach the antenna wire to the rollover. I usually keep the antenna under the body and still run the rollover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NolanP View Post
Which usually means if you have to use the roll over your probably looking at C main anyway.
Plus as dumb as it sounds it actually changes the roll center of the 12th scaler.
Here's last year's 13.5 A-main...I see at least 3 roll over antennas in there. Hard to see how many of the rest had them:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qv-fA...layer_embedded
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:56 PM   #38193
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I'm with ya!
+1
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:02 PM   #38194
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Hardly, you roll onto your side, the roll over flops you back down and you lose 2 sec. instead of 10-15 sec. Keep in mind that you're also not the only car on the track. If the mistake is mine and I chose not to run a rollover, then that's on me. But I would never forgive myself if I got peeled by lapped traffic, and didn't make the main because I was stuck on my lid. Just a little insurance policy if you will.........
From watching 12th scale and racing 12th scale. If you flip your typically talking about more than 2 secs. Cause then your frusturated and about 90 percent of us overshoot the next corner. Then by then your usually up on traffic or they are up on you. Well atleast with the majority of carpet 12th I have seen. You crash your hurting any way you look at it.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:21 PM   #38195
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I will not be running a rollover antenna at the IIC. The car is too pudgy already and I will not be adding the weight.
Have you weighed the rollover antenna? How much are you saving?

-----

On another topic, I need tyre advice for a brand new ozite track that has had zero running. No traction compound allowed. Can anyone give me a range of suggestions? Also, how much running will it take before the track rubbers in, and at that point, how should I look to change the tyre set-up?
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:53 PM   #38196
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My suggestion for running without any tire sauce on carpet is do everything in your power and then some to convince whoever thinks running dry is a good idea that they need to relent and let you run tire sauce. If that fails, i suggest giving up. Running without sauce is a death sentence for 1/12 racing on carpet.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:02 PM   #38197
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What I've found with running a rollover antena is the antena acts as a kickstand and normally doesn't flip the car back over anyways.

Desertrat , what car are you running that your to over weight to run an anyena ? Or are you running big electronics?
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:05 PM   #38198
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The official rule at Tamiya Worlds is no sauce on the rug
Doesn't stop racers from pre-soaking tires though

Having less grip isn't ideal, and policing tires will be awkward

To help control dry rug static issues I've heard spraying Static Gaurd will help

That's about all I got
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:12 PM   #38199
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My suggestion for running without any tire sauce on carpet is do everything in your power and then some to convince whoever thinks running dry is a good idea that they need to relent and let you run tire sauce. If that fails, i suggest giving up. Running without sauce is a death sentence for 1/12 racing on carpet.
Not going to happen. The venue is to be used for kids birthday parties with the track barricades removed as well. The racer population is not large enough by itself to sustain an RC track around here, the venue has to diversify. They feel the sauce would be a turn off to the general public when they walk in.

At best I reckon I can convince them that sunscreen would be ok.

Mate, I've raced 12th on astroturf, tarmac, dusty concrete at night. Carpet without sauce is still more traction than many of the venues I've run at. Also, this will be the first ozite track in my state in 10 years, giving up is lame.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:14 PM   #38200
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What I've found with running a rollover antena is the antena acts as a kickstand and normally doesn't flip the car back over anyways.
How long is your antenna? Run the full height you are allowed under the regulations and you won't have that problem.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:50 PM   #38201
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From watching 12th scale and racing 12th scale. If you flip your typically talking about more than 2 secs. Cause then your frusturated and about 90 percent of us overshoot the next corner. Then by then your usually up on traffic or they are up on you. Well atleast with the majority of carpet 12th I have seen. You crash your hurting any way you look at it.
In just over 25 years I've had plenty of rollovers, landed just offline, and lost less than 2 sec. And many times racers experience crashes that aren't their fault, so like I said, I personally like my chances with the rollover.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:00 PM   #38202
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Many many years ago I ran at a track that had a no sauce rule. It actually worked very well for a long time. The carpet was NOT ozite. I have no idea what it was but it was fantastic stuff that lasted forever, was not fuzzy and had great grip despite the lack of sauce. Toward the end, people started cheating with all sorts of hard to detect treatment methods. Fortunately, it really didn't make much difference.

That being said, I can imagine sauceless on ozite could be quite the challenge. Might be a good idea to have some white rears in the box if you really need some more grip.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:43 PM   #38203
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What I've found with running a rollover antena is the antena acts as a kickstand and normally doesn't flip the car back over anyways.
Even when that happens it is still better to have a roll over on the car because it helps to slow the car down. Without it the car goes for a long slide on the roof which will take longer for the turn marshalls to get to.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:57 PM   #38204
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Many many years ago I ran at a track that had a no sauce rule. It actually worked very well for a long time. The carpet was NOT ozite. I have no idea what it was but it was fantastic stuff that lasted forever, was not fuzzy and had great grip despite the lack of sauce. Toward the end, people started cheating with all sorts of hard to detect treatment methods. Fortunately, it really didn't make much difference.

That being said, I can imagine sauceless on ozite could be quite the challenge. Might be a good idea to have some white rears in the box if you really need some more grip.
Thanks for that. I've had a chance to try pink and purple for 1 battery as the first car on it, and I felt a little more grip would be good, so white makes sense it compared pretty favourably to the astroturf though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Even when that happens it is still better to have a roll over on the car because it helps to slow the car down. Without it the car goes for a long slide on the roof which will take longer for the turn marshalls to get to.
Here is the perfect example of that:

Poleman and early leader = no rollover antenna. Eventual winner = roll over antenna:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL...v=ijTVfUFDR2c&
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:55 PM   #38205
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Yep, that long slide down the front straight cost him the race. If you want to use Whites, and I use them when the grip falls off where I race, the new 6 spoke wheel Ennetis seem to work a little better than JACO. Combine them with black or even the asphalt 45 shore fronts. If they will let you use sunblock, that will help, I've used Coppertone 30 with some good results. You can also treat with something like Jack a couple days before, it will soak in and be dry before you race, but the tires will be softer.
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