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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-11-2003, 11:45 AM   #3391
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Default tires

I have had good success with Jaco tires.

I just picked up a bloody knife the other night..what a nice car. Anyone want a rc12L3 and a Switchblade12? =)
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Old 07-11-2003, 12:23 PM   #3392
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graphitedust- in 12th scale mod, run time is always an issue, lol.

since you are running on asphalt, grip is always a problem as well, thus a lower turn motor with more timing is probably a better idea, something like a 7x2 will be rather drivable, since you really dont need the punch of a single. if you dont have enough power with an 8x1 on that track though i think something is probably wrong with the motor or something else. (i havent raced on it, however i have been to the track and its pretty small, banking or no banking, i dont think you could really get a chance to wind out an 8 single).

whatever you do, dont buy a KR or a epic binary, they are sedan motors, also unless you feel like changing the brushhoods to standard size brushes i suggest staying away from the D5 as well. i personally love my Ti's for 12th scale (its also what the factory reedy guys run, they dont run th KR). i havent really run orion motors, and i really dont think any of the orion guys run 12th scale, but i am going to stay not to buy them, i just dont have an opinon on the matter , lol.

also timing wise i would stick between 10 and 20 degrees, anymore you will over stress and less timing will have too much punch and make it less drivable (or at least i would imagine it would on that track)
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Old 07-11-2003, 02:00 PM   #3393
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Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
For more High Speed steering Stiffen the center spring

I have my dual rate set around 3 , make the chasis do the steering. You wil have more control.

Kit comes with .018" springs. Check them with a dial caliper.

What center spring are you using now?

Don't worry about the caster. It won't make that much of a difference.

What are you running for tires? Kit?

David Root
Right now I'm running the CRC red, I could try the CRC copper? Would that give me more steering? I'm running JACO purple front tires and JACO grey rears. In my manual it says that the kit comes with a .022" spring. But mabey it's wrong. The only caliper I have right now is a dial MM caliper. Does anyone know what .018" or .022" is in MM? I only need to know one of those numbers, but if anyone knows both of them that would be cool. Thanks .
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Old 07-11-2003, 02:43 PM   #3394
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OK, you are on the road!

.018" = .4572 MM
.022 = .5588 MM

Inches X 25.4 = MM
1 inch = 25.4 MM
1 MM = .03937 " or in my terms 1 MM = .040 " or the thickness of a dime.

Go with the copper, just try the CRC Xtra Xstiff (.055") and see what the result is, then you will know better when to change springs. I only use red if the track is rough. CRC stiff (.050") is just a little too much steering for me on a smooth track.

I race on NEW capet in NEW facility, so the track is flat as can be. I run a red spring on old carpet, or in a parking lot.

Do your self a favor, try the Stiffest spring and see how the car reacts. Then try the softest (black) and see what happens. You will soon find out with the softest spring you will have the best low speed sterring, it will react to any input at low speed and be hard to control at high speed. Put in the Xtra Stiff, (silver) and drive it around. You will not be able to make the slow hairpin turns but on the straight (going like hell) it will react to the slightest input. Now all you have to do is find the balance, or trade off. Ignore rear traction for the time. With purple fronts and grey rears, you are set up as good as can be for tires, work on the rest of the setup.

Do the same with the side springs once you have settled on the center spring. Use 30 Wt in the center shock like they say.


Have some real fun now.
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Old 07-11-2003, 08:50 PM   #3395
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I now think I might not have a 1/12th arbor. Both my Jaco and BSR rear wheels don't fit the arbor, it a little too small. Non of the fronts fit, they will fit the 1/10th arbor but it will destroy the entire bearing stop. Anybody have a hudy arbor that they can measure for me to compare.
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Old 07-11-2003, 11:41 PM   #3396
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Stormperson: Thanks! I was looking at the KR and did have some concerns. Thanks for the wave-off! I was talking to Andrew Grey (Team Losi/Trinity dude) about mod motors and he pulled a D5 9x1 out of his motor box, turned it, put new brushes (narrowed for 12 scale) and handed it to me to try! Sorry to say the thing was pretty soggy, no real power or snap to speak of, and I handed it back after a few runs not all that impressed and alittle disappointed.

An Assoc. Team driver loaned me a KR 9x2 last sat. , but I was still not convinced it was the right motor. I think it would be hard to go wrong with a Ti, in any wind. Thanks fro the help! LC
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Old 07-12-2003, 02:28 PM   #3397
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Hey 1/12 guys, I have a friend that just bought a Carpet Knife (standard not bloody edition) He is looking for setup info. His email is cdmaley@wideopenwest.com
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Old 07-12-2003, 06:36 PM   #3398
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Thanks David Root! That's very helpful, I'll go try that the next time I'm at the track and tell you what I find out and if I have any more questions. Sounds good for now, currently I'm running on some pretty old carpet, but I think I heard someone talking that it might get replaced somtime, which would be cool, because its kinda old (or atleast it seems pretty old ).
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Old 07-12-2003, 06:57 PM   #3399
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graphitedust- see if you can try an Ti 8 single (fresh, not some old POS motor that they were about to trash). the KR's have great power, but you will never make run time.

the reason the 9 single was probably so weak was because it probably was some old motor that wasnt too hot, and also a 9x1 isnt that fast of a mod motor, even in 12th. and narrowed brushes are slower and draw less amps, although you will gain some run time.
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Old 07-13-2003, 01:12 AM   #3400
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
Thanks David Root! That's very helpful, I'll go try that the next time I'm at the track and tell you what I find out and if I have any more questions. Sounds good for now, currently I'm running on some pretty old carpet, but I think I heard someone talking that it might get replaced somtime, which would be cool, because its kinda old (or atleast it seems pretty old ).
Yes, the carpet is old. They have had the smae carpet in there for a while. they vaccum it everyonce in a while though to keep soem of the fuzz off.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 07-13-2003, 02:20 PM   #3401
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Sushi- I heard Andrew talking to Debbie once that they needed new carpet, do you have any idea if they're going to replace it or not?
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:17 PM   #3402
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Arrow Looking for some Help

I am looking for some 1/12 car specs for Associated, Trinity, CRC, Speed Merchant, Yokomo and any others you may have.

Wheel base:
Front Track Width:
Rear Track Width:

ty

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Old 07-13-2003, 08:24 PM   #3403
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12l3- Length: 10"
Width: front: 6-1/2" rear: 6-5/8" Wheelbase: 7.8"

all of the cars will be around these specs....
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Old 07-13-2003, 09:52 PM   #3404
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
Sushi- I heard Andrew talking to Debbie once that they needed new carpet, do you have any idea if they're going to replace it or not?
They are probably going to replace it when the carpet season starts to gear up. Thats only a guess though...

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Old 07-13-2003, 10:02 PM   #3405
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Default CRC Spur Gear

Hi I was wondering if anybody knows what brand the Spur gear is for the Red edition Carpet Knife. I have tryed a few others but it just does not seem to fit right.

I would buy it from CRC themselves but I never get a response from any emails I send them.

So I am after the brand or others that fit that I can buy on line.


Thanks in advance for anybody whishing to share some info.


Coxy.
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