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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-02-2003, 06:51 PM   #3286
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Impact - I ran at The Track for 4 years. Moved to NJ so I wasn't there this last year, except for the Orion Race. I run the Speedmerchant REV3. It is a monoball car, no t-bar. The second and third place cars in 1/12 stock at the Orion race were REV3's. You don't have to run a t-bar type car to be competitive at your track.
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Old 07-02-2003, 07:40 PM   #3287
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Default hello from florida

i made the a main in north carolina and was the only yokomo in the field someone mentioned the corallys were stuck. i finished sixth but was as high as third (started ninth) in every main and i can say the yoke was stuck the only thing that hurt me was lack of horse power.
we run 4cell 19t in florida and it was my first 4 cell stock race. ihad a blast running against smyrka. mo denton . billy spence, scotty ernst, mike d. by the way congratulations mike d. hopefully ill race with you guys down here snow birds!!!!!!!!!!! nice racing with you guys from the north.
thanks h.garcia
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Old 07-02-2003, 09:50 PM   #3288
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Default Re: hello from florida

Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
i made the a main in north carolina and was the only yokomo in the field someone mentioned the corallys were stuck. i finished sixth but was as high as third (started ninth) in every main and i can say the yoke was stuck the only thing that hurt me was lack of horse power.
we run 4cell 19t in florida and it was my first 4 cell stock race. ihad a blast running against smyrka. mo denton . billy spence, scotty ernst, mike d. by the way congratulations mike d. hopefully ill race with you guys down here snow birds!!!!!!!!!!! nice racing with you guys from the north.
thanks h.garcia
can you post the setup that you ran in N. Carolina, my track i imagine is very similar to the serface that was vack there (high grip asphalt) but if you couls list your setu down to the very last detail (including what kinda suntan lotion you used!) i would really appreciate it!

peter
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Old 07-02-2003, 11:34 PM   #3289
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Old 07-02-2003, 11:35 PM   #3290
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Quote:
Originally posted by rice98w
wheel diameters are the same, tire & wheel diamteres are different, should be between 3mm and 5mm difference front to back, front being smaller.

how about all you guys posting some pics of your pride and joy pan cars? i like looking at other people cars. all cars welcome! lol, and your bodies too, im trying to think up a signature paint scheme!

matt rice
You can look but don't pinch me paint scheme. It actually came 2nd last weekend at the Australian Winter Champs. Was in front by about half a lap until I got tangled up with a back marker.

Powered by 4 SMC cells and a Reedy KR 8x2. A pink missle.

BTW it's a bloddy knife.

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Old 07-02-2003, 11:47 PM   #3291
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Quote:
Originally posted by TrackMagnet
cool huh!
Hey TM - you like the car in your Avatar? You realize it's a photo of Mark Anton's 10L2.5 with the Hot Bodies' Toyota. . .?
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Old 07-03-2003, 02:23 AM   #3292
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cool shell dude! its a yokomo right? sweet, good paint job!

how about underneath the skin?

i wanted to use a luminous colour at the front, pink or kawasaki green, still cant decide!

cheers
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Old 07-03-2003, 06:08 AM   #3293
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Default Damper Tubes

Done with fixing my L3 after I broke the T-bar on its maiden race!

Instead of the regular disc damper on the L3, i converted it using CRC's damper tubes, top plate and thecarbon stand off (cut into two.

I just noticed that the damper tubes is not enough to control the side to side movement as compared to the Disc Dampers, since the Carpet Knife also has springs and rubber thingy's as replacement to the T-bar.

It was a problem at first, until i was looking atthe pen that I was using!!! TING TING TING!!! and idea came instantly!!!

I bought pens will little springs inside and placed them inside the damper tubes!!! hehehehhe I used the longer springs not the short one, it seems to work!!! will test somemore this weekend!!

Peace!!!


PS:will go to the bookstore and look for different springs, for different tensions and so on, hehehehehe
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Old 07-03-2003, 08:02 AM   #3294
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Default Re: Damper Tubes

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Done with fixing my L3 after I broke the T-bar on its maiden race!

Instead of the regular disc damper on the L3, i converted it using CRC's damper tubes, top plate and thecarbon stand off (cut into two.

I just noticed that the damper tubes is not enough to control the side to side movement as compared to the Disc Dampers, since the Carpet Knife also has springs and rubber thingy's as replacement to the T-bar.

It was a problem at first, until i was looking atthe pen that I was using!!! TING TING TING!!! and idea came instantly!!!

I bought pens will little springs inside and placed them inside the damper tubes!!! hehehehhe I used the longer springs not the short one, it seems to work!!! will test somemore this weekend!!

Peace!!!


PS:will go to the bookstore and look for different springs, for different tensions and so on, hehehehehe
could you adapt the side springs to the L3?
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Old 07-03-2003, 08:12 AM   #3295
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Yes you can adapt the side springs....



LEM2- the tweak screws in the T-bar, and the T-bar it's self control the side to side motion, you still need the tweak screws, the dampers tubes do just that dampening....
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Last edited by IMPACTPLAYR; 07-03-2003 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 07-03-2003, 08:50 AM   #3296
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You could also try to use normal front springs for a 12th scale in the damper tubes. or try preloading the tweak springs more.
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Old 07-03-2003, 09:06 AM   #3297
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DUHH!!!!! edited my last post I must have been still asleep!!!

You can adapt the side springs..

BTW: cypress- I started with whites...
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Old 07-03-2003, 10:12 AM   #3298
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Carpet kinfe side spring box stock set up is hard to beat. I use a much stiffer center spring, but I still am using the original white side springs. Red side springs will make it react quicker to input at first. Almost nervous, but with 100 wt shock oil in the side tubes like they suggest, and white side springs, it is hooked up for me. I just change the center spring to balance high and low speed steering. Stiffer = more high speed steering and less low speed. I use copper or red. Rough track you might have to go softer because the car will bounce all over the track.

CRC makes a complete Unitune suspension kit for an associated.
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Old 07-03-2003, 10:30 AM   #3299
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Talking I love it :D !

I finally got my speed control for my Carpet Knife so I was able to drive it, I have to say that driving a 1/12 scale car is the most fun car I've ever driven. You can't make it spin out because it has foam tires, and it so fast, and quiet . I want to thank all you guys who helped me out deciding which car to get and all that stuff. That Ascari body is so low slung that I have to angle my battary bars off to the side so they don't hit the body . How do you guys get paint up in the rear wing and those places on that body? I wasn't able to get very much paint up there so it's only tinted on my body in those places, but you can't tell from the drivers stand . I was considering using a paint brushe to paint some paint up there but I was afraid of having brush strokes that would show through. I used an air brush to paint the body. Now everybody at my track who has a 1/12 car wants to get one of the Ascari bodies because I brought mine. Today I get to go to the track all day and just practice with my new car . Many people have told me that driving a 1/12 car will help me with racing my TC3, and now I really believe them. After having just two packs through my Carpet Knife I was pulling laps with my tc3 that were 2 tenths of a second faster that my previous fastest lap.
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Old 07-03-2003, 10:55 AM   #3300
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impact: I believe I've seen red springs before on Smyka's car and Mike Pulfer generally runs reds or greens on his.

racerdx6: Welcome to the absolute greatest class of R/C racing. There's nothing better than wheeling one of those little missles around the track!
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