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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-13-2003, 10:22 PM   #3166
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Davidl, how well does the v-force work compared to the oldskool and the dynamic?
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Old 06-14-2003, 06:02 AM   #3167
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the steering block, c-hub and arm are all connected, they all pivot together, and without an upper arm to keep the tire perpendicular to the ground, there is alot of camber gain. All of the plastic peices on the new style front end are all new, and the only thing that is standard AE parts are the springs (although you might be able to use the speedmerchant rear springs? david?) and maybe the hinge pins.
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Old 06-14-2003, 08:21 AM   #3168
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I can't answer the question. Right now there are differences. The team is still working on combinations, so it is too early to tell. The progressive spring used in the rear of the car will not fit this new front suspension, as the prototype is made. Modifications can be made, but the production version would be wise to be able to accomodate those springs. The prototype is also about .5 oz heavy compared to the others. I expect there will be more modifications in prototype form before there is a production unit.

Let's just say this. The guys in the A-Mains at the Nationals used either the dynamic strut or the "Old Skool" suspension. You aren't hurting yourselves by using either of them at this point.
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Old 06-14-2003, 02:03 PM   #3169
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
I can't answer the question. Right now there are differences. The team is still working on combinations, so it is too early to tell. The progressive spring used in the rear of the car will not fit this new front suspension, as the prototype is made. Modifications can be made, but the production version would be wise to be able to accomodate those springs. The prototype is also about .5 oz heavy compared to the others. I expect there will be more modifications in prototype form before there is a production unit.

Let's just say this. The guys in the A-Mains at the Nationals used either the dynamic strut or the "Old Skool" suspension. You aren't hurting yourselves by using either of them at this point.
would you say that the "old skool" front suspension is better than the dynamic strut as this was used by the a-main guys?

thnx...
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Old 06-14-2003, 05:09 PM   #3170
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I won the Masters National Championship with the "Old Skool" suspension. But I have run extremely well with the dynamic strut as well. Here is the difference. The dynamic strut has features I like for technical, twisty tracks. The "Old Skool" ran extremely well on tracks that had sweeping corners and no 180 degree corners. But there are other guys that do very well with the "Old Skool" suspension on technical, twisty tracks and visa versa. There is no magic here. You have to try both and work with them to find the best thing for you. And above all, as I have been saying for 3 years now, practice, practice, and when your done, practice some more. All the guys at the top have tremendous work ethic and that is how you join them. Pick your configurations based on how well you can tune and maintain them. For practice to mean something, the car has to be reliable so you can try a lot of things. Make it so you don't waste track time for repair time. Get everything done at home before you go to the track. That way all your time at the track will be spent running the car and trying all the options. That will be the same for the V-Force when it is ready for distribution.
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Old 06-14-2003, 06:57 PM   #3171
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Hey guys, couple of questions:

I just got a Switchblade, its the 6-cell, purple graphite (yeah baby) version. Can anyone explain the front end to me? Ie what the 2 links do? And the different mounting points?

Thanks
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Old 06-15-2003, 02:44 PM   #3172
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I'm considering getting a Quantum Sport or a Quantum Super sport instead of the Gt7 I was going to get for my 1/12 car. Does anyone think I would be at a very big disadvantage racing against someone with a Quantum Comp. or a Gt7 or one of the other high end speedos? What are the main differences that I would have between the Quantum Sport and a Quantum Comp? The main thing I want to make sure is that having an esc with a higher internal resistance will not make a large difference in top end, would I be able to notice a difference? I won't be racing mod with my 1/12 scale, mostly it's just to get better at racing with my sedan and have some fun with it, it's not like I'm doing any international competitions or anything. So any opinions would be greatly appreciated. My Carpet Knife is supposed to come tomorrow, yay !
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Old 06-15-2003, 04:13 PM   #3173
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racer, go for the GT7 or quantum comp. The on resistance is much less and that translates into more power for your motor and longer run times...important in 8 min 12th. Save yourself the trouble of having to upgrade later to be competitive as your skills grow by getting the tope o da line stuff now. And yes you should be able to notice a difference between a quantum comp and a quantum sport. You may not be going to any big races with it soon, but you'll still want to be able to compete locally, and having a good speedo will help.
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Old 06-15-2003, 07:31 PM   #3174
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Thanks for the help. I think I'll go with the GT7, a lot of the guys at my track say I wont be able to tell a difference between the two. But I was able to tell a difference between my old Duratrax Streak and a Cyclone TC, it was like night and day, the power and the acceleration was soooooo much better. Than if I decide to put the esc in something like a touring car it would work much better than a Quantum sport. I was just mainly looking for someone to back me up on my idea .
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Old 06-16-2003, 05:59 AM   #3175
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Make sure you get an updated GT7 (there is a diode covered in heatshrink on the wires). GT7's have been known to suddenly fail even after a battery pack for no apperent reason, and i have seen this will novak factory driver's esc's as well.

I have been very happy with all of my other novak esc's (i have had cyclones last for years), and for 12th scale i always run quantom competitions, since they are very small and i have been very pleased with their performance.
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:13 AM   #3176
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When did Novak start shipping the updated version? How will I know if I bought the updated version without opening the box?
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:25 AM   #3177
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Corner speed question:

I have a question about my driving style, can anyone help me out? I start almost every corner wide. Initially, Ill lift (not brake), to reach a speed close to what the corner can be taken at. I never go completely off throttle, though. I turn the wheel, adding steering to scrub speed as necessary. Coming out of he corner, I use as little steering as possible, and get back on the throttle hard.

Is there a better way, such as not using the tires to scrub?

Thanks
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:55 PM   #3178
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I finally got my 1/12 in the mail today, the Carpet Knife with old style front end. Anyway, its been going together great but I've hit a block at the damper tubes. First of all one of the damper tubes after the delrin part gets pushed into the aluminum tube too far it creates a lot of friction, any idea on how to make it smoother? Mabey putting in some oil of some sort, which brings me to my second problem. The manual calls for Losi Hydra fluid or something like that, is that just shock oil? Or is it more like Associated green slime? Would it work to use Associated shock oil or green slime? (for those of you who don't know what Associated green slime is, it's some grease type stuff to lubricate your shocks). Otherwise I haven't had any problems. What is Losi Hydra fluid anyway? I've never heard of it. Thanks for any help, I want to get this problem figured out as soon as possible so I can continue to build on my kit.

But I have to say that the instructions arn't what you call good, and I was warned that most 1/12 cars don't come with very good instructions. But I've had some wierd problems with the bagging, eg: say on step 5 your supposed to use bag 3 and bag R, after you've completed step 3 you end up putting some parts back in bag 3, and than you have to get the parts from bag 3 back out for step 9. It's not really a problem, just something that's a little annoying.
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:26 PM   #3179
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Racerdxr, Look for burrs on the inserts

Clean the tubes out with a Q tip. Keep a couple in your tool kit

I use 100 Wt shock oil It works great. Use the thickest shock oil you have to get it together. then you can try 90, 100 or heavier shock oil. Or you can use 1,000 Wt diff oil which is really 100 wt shock oil.

David Root
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:34 PM   #3180
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Oh, I know, one more question:

On my new Swqitchblade, the damper tubes have a small pin-sized hole in the side of the tube, near the bottom. Is that supposed to be there? And the tube is wierd, it has a little spring in it, is that supposed to be there? I didnt have oil, so I used diff fluid in it, is that ok?

Thanks
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