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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-09-2009, 05:19 PM   #30676
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
The ESC is mounted on the "drivers side", same as the motor. The sensor input is on the far left side of the chassis. Sounds like 125-150 should work.
110 works good on a gen x. 125 should be a guarenteed fit but may have a little too much slack. 150 is probably too much
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:21 PM   #30677
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
Though I think A123 makes Lithium ION batteries in smaller sizes now. 2 cell is a little hotter than 4 cell nihm but not much. Maybe we can jump to those. I'm thinking about getting a little LiIon 2cell battery for my nitrobuggy so that I won't have to run a voltage regulator.(I have to run a Castle Creations reg to get my lipo output down to 6.9 volts for my radio/servos.)

Lets just stay with Nihm a little longer until the tech gets worked out so that everyone can run the same battery/motor like stock was intended.

I've been using A123, (the smaller 1100mah cells) cells in a 2s2p configuration and loving them. Very light, geat punch and thay will last the full 8mins if your geared correctly.
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:24 PM   #30678
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Hi all,


I have a current model CRC GENX 1/12 scale for sale like new with extras if keen pics and details are in the Australia for sale section or feel free to PM me. Cheers,
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:28 PM   #30679
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110 works good on a gen x. 125 should be a guarenteed fit but may have a little too much slack. 150 is probably too much
If you have one handy would you do me a favor and let me know how long the 110 or 125 or 150 is from tip to tip including the connectors? I could measure the distance I need with some wire, I just need to know "where" the mm measurements are being taken on the sensor wire, know what I mean Vern?
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:54 PM   #30680
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While I'm thinkin 12th scale, are there any stronger alternatives to the graphite axle used in the AE cars? I managed to break one in half on Sat at the point where the right hub is pinned. I hit boards occasionally, but I'm a long ways from being a hack. In fact when the axle broke I just scuffed up next to a 2x4 while running a hot lap before check in at about 1/2 throttle. So far this is the first thing I have broken on my 12th in 4 months of weekly racing and practice. Maybe I just hit it funny, but if there's a stronger alternative I'd be interested even at the cost of a few grams.
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:30 PM   #30681
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
While I'm thinkin 12th scale, are there any stronger alternatives to the graphite axle used in the AE cars? I managed to break one in half on Sat at the point where the right hub is pinned. I hit boards occasionally, but I'm a long ways from being a hack. In fact when the axle broke I just scuffed up next to a 2x4 while running a hot lap before check in at about 1/2 throttle. So far this is the first thing I have broken on my 12th in 4 months of weekly racing and practice. Maybe I just hit it funny, but if there's a stronger alternative I'd be interested even at the cost of a few grams.
Many of the ones that don't break as easily will instead bend. I prefer the graphite ones. You may have weakened it with a hard crash some other time.
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:57 PM   #30682
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Gearing question:

Just bought a Team Associated 12R5 and i was wondering about what short of gearing i should start with. This past weekend I raced at the Camarillo race with a 98/37 combo. I'm using a trinity blue can motor and trinity 4700 cells. down the straight I didn't have much top end but mid field it was a bit too punchy. plus at the end of eight minutes my battery pretty much dumped to zero. looking for suggestions.
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Old 02-09-2009, 09:19 PM   #30683
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Average over the counter batts and a 17.5/1cell are really close. The better driver will rise to the top. But if good packs get dropped in, it crush's the 17.5/1c cars easly.

Yes, close is not enough in 1/12. Every little .01 makes a diffrents. I didnt mind the 17.5/4c power and speed. Its got some pep and wants to go. Very much like the 13.5/1c. The 17.5/1c is a joke !! I hate it but run it to keep the crybabies quiet. Still doesnt work cause then I have to hear were light. Duh !! We have less voltage !!!

Anybody hear of F1? They allow diffrent motors and thats the most competitive race car on the planet !!!!!! Would you run a 6 cyclinder upagainst 12 cyclinders? Not with out some kind of power adder. Wouldnt be that hard to start adding weight to the lipo car if it started to dominate. Then when the performance is the same, have at it untill everybody switch's to lipo, then they can knock the weight back down to what it should be in the first place. Just for giggles have a big pan car race. Let them run what they want. 1/12 =17.5/1c,17.5/4c or 13.5/1c. The ladder would probly have to ballast up though. WGT=13.5/4cell,10.5/1c or 21.5/2cell. And see who runs what and what ends up on the podium?

We have anywhere between 8 and 14 drivers on fri. Depending on who shows, we can have upto 6 or 7 of them running lipo. Just had two more guys there building new R5's with lipos last fri.

We need more 1/12th out there. Its making a come back in this area and Im running it for the first time. Love this class and only want to see it grow. Sorry, I refuse to buy round cells and have it lose a cell a week or month later. Thats just thorwing money out the window. Not to mention the tire wear on the 4cell car. The class, with lipo, is as time laden as rubber sedan. Way less then a 4cell loaded car.

WGT is taking off also. Why? Its simple !! The pan cars are easy to setup and as light as they are, tires are not and issue now. Remember foam sedan? A set of tires every other week and the crap we had to do inbetween rounds? Ugg. No thanks.

Sorry, just sorta rabbling here.

DK
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:35 AM   #30684
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Quote:
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Thanks Randy!

Another question: I'm looking to order the following parts but I have yet to find an online store that stocks all of them together. I've checked Ashford, Amain, Tower, Horizon, Left Hander, Wind Tunnel....They all have part of the list but not all of it. Is there a shop that does stock all of this together under one roof? Thanks again for the help guys!

SMT 105 1/12th Foam Bumper Black
CRC 13451 Durashock Rebuild Kit (2)
CRC 4088 Graphite Servo Saver Brace
CRC 4123 Belleville Spng wash-3 bolt(2)
CRC 4284 VCS Dura-Shock Conversion Shock Color : Silver Anodized
XRA 305780 X-Ray Spur Gear 48 Pitch # of Teeth / Pitch : 99Tooth / 48 Pitch
ASC 7320 Body Mount Large Washer (4)
CRC 1409 Anodized 4-40 Ball Studs (4)
CRC 4126 8-32 Nylon Locknut (2)
CRC 4019 Aluminum Pivot balls for T-bar
Futaba Gear Set S9650
Associated Pivoting Body Mounts TC3
Associated Silicone Shock Oil 30 Weight 2 oz
Kimbrough Differential Gear 64P 88T
Trinity R-Minus Gold Battery Connector Set
Associated Factory Team Turnbuckle 1.775" 45mm (2)
So nobody's got a one stop shop for my little wish list here? I don't mind paying the shipping from 2 different places, I'd just rather avoid it if possible. Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:43 AM   #30685
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... I hate it but run it to keep the crybabies quiet. Still doesnt work cause then I have to hear were light. Duh !! We have less voltage !!!
Seems to me the ones crying are those whinning about round cells

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
We need more 1/12th out there. Its making a come back in this area and Im running it for the first time. Love this class and only want to see it grow. Sorry, I refuse to buy round cells and have it lose a cell a week or month later. Thats just thorwing money out the window. Not to mention the tire wear on the 4cell car. The class, with lipo, is as time laden as rubber sedan. Way less then a 4cell loaded car.

Sorry, just sorta rabbling here.DK
First you say your running 1/12 for the first time and your qualified to comment on tire wear and cell usage?
I run cells over a year old, they work fine if you take care of them, I put my 1/12 in the 'A' at the last two stops on the Grand slam series, new cells are nice but not needed as much as a clean accident free run are. I've not heard of cells blowing since the IB 4200's which is also where the issue began. Sure an occasional excetion but not worse than the reports I've seen on swelling Li-po and fires. At least I can replace individual cells.
Tire wear, in stock I've made each of those last two on 3 sets of years and 3 sets of fronts. Considering I trued them down very low for high traction and ran 3 race days each event, not bad. Club racing I easiely get multiple weekends on a set of tires.
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:18 AM   #30686
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So nobody's got a one stop shop for my little wish list here? I don't mind paying the shipping from 2 different places, I'd just rather avoid it if possible. Thanks!
The reason why you're not getting a response is because you're asking people to do your shopping for you and that's a big list!
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:46 AM   #30687
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So nobody's got a one stop shop for my little wish list here? I don't mind paying the shipping from 2 different places, I'd just rather avoid it if possible. Thanks!
Have you tried Stormer Hobbies?
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:50 AM   #30688
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Seems to me the ones crying are those whinning about round cells



First you say your running 1/12 for the first time and your qualified to comment on tire wear and cell usage?
I run cells over a year old, they work fine if you take care of them, I put my 1/12 in the 'A' at the last two stops on the Grand slam series, new cells are nice but not needed as much as a clean accident free run are. I've not heard of cells blowing since the IB 4200's which is also where the issue began. Sure an occasional excetion but not worse than the reports I've seen on swelling Li-po and fires. At least I can replace individual cells.
Tire wear, in stock I've made each of those last two on 3 sets of years and 3 sets of fronts. Considering I trued them down very low for high traction and ran 3 race days each event, not bad. Club racing I easiely get multiple weekends on a set of tires.
The first 2 months of racing was with, you guessed it, intellect 4200's. That would exsplain my problems. I went threw 2 sets of tires in that time.

I switched to the lipo, got a new set of tires and trued them down pretty short. Here it is almost 2 months later and racing 2 times a week I still have the same tires on my car. Ya there about due for new ones but thats still more than twice the wear. I set the car up at home and dont touch ride hight all night. Just clean, dope and race.

Im not crying about round cells. You guys want to run them cool. There are some really fast packs out there. I just cant get my hands on them plus dont have the discharger, balancer to take car of them. For me, brushless/lipo has taken so much of the un-needed maintance out of it.

I love 1/12th. It quickly became my favorite class but, If I have to hear too much more crying about running what every other class is running (brushless/lipo) than I will just put the car up and do off road. Just what 1/12th needs, right?

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Old 02-10-2009, 09:26 AM   #30689
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One of the "top" Drivers at our club went brushless last week and did not do much better than his old brushed setup. he is running a novak 10.5 with Nimh's and running with the rest of us with 19T class and Nimh's

Should the brushless go any faster? and do you think that his setup is equal to the rest of us?

Thanks
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:05 AM   #30690
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One of the "top" Drivers at our club went brushless last week and did not do much better than his old brushed setup. he is running a novak 10.5 with Nimh's and running with the rest of us with 19T class and Nimh's

Should the brushless go any faster? and do you think that his setup is equal to the rest of us?

Thanks
Yes - Brushless is usually faster once you get the rollout right, BUT one big difference is that Brushed motor/ESC combo is lighter than Brushless. So unless this "top" driver found a way to get his car as light as it was with Brushed, than the Brushless power advantage will be less.
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