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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-28-2009, 10:19 PM   #30511
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What kind of roll out should I have if I'm running a silver can motor? (don't laugh) I'm a newb to 12 scale and just want to work on setup of the car.

Thanks
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Old 01-28-2009, 10:27 PM   #30512
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Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
What kind of roll out should I have if I'm running a silver can motor? (don't laugh) I'm a newb to 12 scale and just want to work on setup of the car.

Thanks
FAR from laughing...I think what you're doing is the smartest thing a new 1/12 racer can do. I did some experimenting with this combo 2 years ago and asked Stormer for some input. He guessed 55-60mm rollout, and that the Silver Can motor car would be "about a lap" behind a comparable driver with a regular stock motor. Well, our first race that I tried it at I ended up in the 55-60 range...exactly as he'd said...and at the end of eight minutes the lead car was following me across the line about 10 feet behind, so about exactly a lap "slower". That Stormer character knows his stuff!!

Since then we've had two 1/12 rookies start out with one of my Silver Can motor in their car for a few races, and both of them have a) stuck with 1/12, and b) are FAR better 1/12 racers than the guys who started out at about the same time but let false pride force them to go 27T.
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Last edited by Scottrik; 01-28-2009 at 11:54 PM. Reason: Correct typo
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Old 01-28-2009, 10:36 PM   #30513
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As far as what to expect running the Silver Can motor...

1) The Silver Can has VERY poor brakes. It coasts into turns almost like a brushless and if you DO have to hit the brakes they're not particularly strong.

2) The Silver Can has comparatively little torque. The advantage is that this allows the chassis to react more freely rather than being bound up with the torque. The disadvantage is that Silver Can 1/12 REALLY becomes a momentum exercise because the LAST thing you want to do is square-up corners and have to rely on that meager torque to accelerate you onto the next straight. Broad sweeping "classical" lines are the rule of the day keeping up as much speed as you can.
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:46 PM   #30514
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FAR from laughing...I think what you're doing is the smartest thing a new 1/12 racer can do. I did some experimenting with this combo 2 years ago and asked Stormer for some input. He guessed 55-60mm rollout, and that the Silver Can motor car would be "about a lap" behind a comparable driver with a regular stock motor. Well, our first race that I tried it at I ended up in the 55-60 range...exactly as he'd said...and at the end of eight minutes the lead car was following me across the line about 10 feet behind, so about exactly a lap "slower". That Stormer character knows his stuff!!

Since then we've had two 1/12 rookies start out with one of my Silver Can motor in their car for a few races, and both of them have a) stuck with 1/12, and b) are FAR better 1/12 racers than the guys who started out at about the same time but let false pride force them to go 17T.
Interesting.... I am a newbie that started out with a black can stock. It was a beast - to me. I am in the process of switching to brushless. When you say 17, are you meaning 17.5 BL or 17 brushed?
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:53 PM   #30515
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Interesting.... I am a newbie that started out with a black can stock. It was a beast - to me. I am in the process of switching to brushless. When you say 17, are you meaning 17.5 BL or 17 brushed?
Typo...I meant 27T
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:56 PM   #30516
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Newbie learning to drive...I was wondering about some techniques that would help me improve my meager driving skills, and I came up with this. You guys tell me what you think...

We race 17.5 BL here and I was wondering about practicing with a 13.5 (maybe with the 13.5 turned down a tick or so but still considerably faster than the 17.5) just to develop my reaction time and ability to hold a line. My thinking is the 17.5 seems fast to me now, but I can handle it fairly well. So, if I drive something faster it will make the 17.5 seem slower.

I hope I didn't blotch this up too bad explaining it. If you can understand it, tell me what you think pros and cons. You are crazy is an answer too.

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-29-2009, 04:01 AM   #30517
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Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
What kind of roll out should I have if I'm running a silver can motor? (don't laugh) I'm a newb to 12 scale and just want to work on setup of the car.

Thanks
<raises hand>
OOOOoooo.....Pick me, pick me....

I have a lot of experience in this area. Even made a thread about it.

enough chit chat. compared, Mabuchi, 21.5, 19turn and 8.5

The first post will bring you up to speed.... literally.

Start at 55-60 and you'll be quite happy. Spend 5 minutes in that thread though.
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Old 01-29-2009, 04:08 AM   #30518
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Newbie learning to drive...I was wondering about some techniques that would help me improve my meager driving skills, and I came up with this. You guys tell me what you think...

We race 17.5 BL here and I was wondering about practicing with a 13.5 (maybe with the 13.5 turned down a tick or so but still considerably faster than the 17.5) just to develop my reaction time and ability to hold a line. My thinking is the 17.5 seems fast to me now, but I can handle it fairly well. So, if I drive something faster it will make the 17.5 seem slower.

I hope I didn't blotch this up too bad explaining it. If you can understand it, tell me what you think pros and cons. You are crazy is an answer too.

Thanks in advance
Explanation is fine.

Practicing with insanity makes the motors with less power seem easier to drive. The real key word is practice. track time is track time. Even as a newer driver, you will turn faster laps with the slower motor.

The ability to hold a line will happen in 17.5. The ability to come close to that 17.5 line is what you'll get with the 13.5. Don't turn anything down on the 13.5 and have some fun. I'd consider a 10.5 though. If you're gonna commit, commit!!!

A suspension arm is like $5 and the story about how you nailed the inside wall at 40mph and the car flipped 30 feet in the air and landed in the popcorn machine at the snack bar is worth about $127 (on the "what's a good story worth" value sheet). Pretty good deal, really.
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Last edited by Bob-Stormer; 01-29-2009 at 04:20 AM.
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:21 AM   #30519
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Explanation is fine.

Practicing with insanity makes the motors with less power seem easier to drive. The real key word is practice. track time is track time. Even as a newer driver, you will turn faster laps with the slower motor.

The ability to hold a line will happen in 17.5. The ability to come close to that 17.5 line is what you'll get with the 13.5. Don't turn anything down on the 13.5 and have some fun. I'd consider a 10.5 though. If you're gonna commit, commit!!!

A suspension arm is like $5 and the story about how you nailed the inside wall at 40mph and the car flipped 30 feet in the air and landed in the popcorn machine at the snack bar is worth about $127 (on the "what's a good story worth" value sheet). Pretty good deal, really.

Thanks Bob. You will be one of the first to hear the story. I might even get a popcorn machine for the track. Heck, I might as well do some target practice too.

Thanks
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Old 01-29-2009, 04:44 PM   #30520
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I've never hit a popcorn machine but I have experienced scoring towers (found the bearing from inside the spur gear in the tower after hitting it, five feet above the track), poles, columns, drink machines, turn marshals, pick-up trucks, spectators, EZ-up tents, drivers stands, chairs, chain link fences, bumble bees (splattered all over the nose of the body), frogs, dogs, trash cans, fire extinguishers, lap counter bridges, infield 2x4 walls lapped the wrong direction (those things are deadly) dumpsters and of course, other cars.
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:28 PM   #30521
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I've never hit a popcorn machine but...


...other cars.
LMAO!
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:45 PM   #30522
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Man thats great stuff there Bob, I started with a 12i, wiper arm racing. Still have the car, but looking at your quick pics really makes me want to restore it back to early day stlye. I do have a 12L that looks like it was picked up off the track in 1990 and stored away, we need a nostalga thread for all us old farts.
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Old 01-29-2009, 06:42 PM   #30523
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I've never hit a popcorn machine but I have experienced scoring towers (found the bearing from inside the spur gear in the tower after hitting it, five feet above the track), poles, columns, drink machines, turn marshals, pick-up trucks, spectators, EZ-up tents, drivers stands, chairs, chain link fences, bumble bees (splattered all over the nose of the body), frogs, dogs, trash cans, fire extinguishers, lap counter bridges, infield 2x4 walls lapped the wrong direction (those things are deadly) dumpsters and of course, other cars.

Dang! That is awesome. Remind me never to be around when you are racing. One of the coolest things I have ever seen at an RC track was a VTA hit another car at the end of the straight. It went in the air, right side up, and out the door. From where I was standing it looked like it jumped through the wall. That is second only to the Truggy hitting the port-a-john in mid air.
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Old 01-29-2009, 06:53 PM   #30524
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Dang! That is awesome. Remind me never to be around when you are racing. One of the coolest things I have ever seen at an RC track was a VTA hit another car at the end of the straight. It went in the air, right side up, and out the door. From where I was standing it looked like it jumped through the wall. That is second only to the Truggy hitting the port-a-john in mid air.
I've been racing since 1984 so I've had a lot of time to accumulate war stories.
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:11 PM   #30525
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Man thats great stuff there Bob, I started with a 12i, wiper arm racing. Still have the car, but looking at your quick pics really makes me want to restore it back to early day stlye. I do have a 12L that looks like it was picked up off the track in 1990 and stored away, we need a nostalga thread for all us old farts.
Trips started a social group called Old Skool RC. He and I stared reminiscing about "the good old days" so he started the group. Go there and post your war stories. I love reading stuff like that.

My first 12th scale car was a fiberglass 12L which I think the parts are still hiding in my garage somewhere.
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