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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-05-2009, 06:57 AM   #30181
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Hello all. I have weird problem. Our Carpet course is clockwise so there are more right hand corners than left. Now what happened last night was the car would not turn as much as it had to last time to the right but turns too much to the left.

The corner I am having the most problem with is right off of the Main straight there is a sweeping right full throttle until you get 270 degrees then you have to slow down to finish the 450 degree corner then a immediate left 180 degree corner (attached drawing) when I transition to the left the rear slides out and I have to counter steer to keep from hitting the pole.

Is there any glaring issues with my car that anyone would recognize? I did check for binding and my motor wires look OK but they may be getting tight at the extents of motion of the rear pod.

thanks for any help.

CRC Carpet knife 3.2R with Checkpoint money 19T 43mm rollout

Last edited by jdeadman; 05-19-2014 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:14 AM   #30182
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Sounds like a tweak issue. Turning too hard to the left usually indicates the right rear is too heavy. Hold the car up at eye level and sight down along teh bottom of the chassis from the rear. You want to see if the bottom pod plate's front edge is aligned with the main chassis plate's rear edge. I'm betting you'll see the pod hanging right side low. You may even be missing the left side side spring if the problem is really severe.

Back the side springs off, then lower them so that the rear pod sits level side to side with the main chassis, and the springs are just touching down. That'll get you real close. Check on a tweakboard to get it right on the money.

Not really related to your handling issue, are you sure you're running 33mm rollout on that Money 19? That sounds awfully short for that motor in a 1/12 car... unless it's a really small track... I'm used to running a Komodo 19 around 48-50 mm, a Money would like even more gear than a Komodo I'd think...
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:47 AM   #30183
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Money motors generally like to be at around 52 min to 58 max on a large track even for a really small track like my local one i never go below 45mm. If your running 33mmpr then your well undergeared...

Regarding the handling, the post aboved covered all the bases except the front spring, if sorting out the rear tweak doesn't help then buy some new front springs and see if that helps or check your steering end points on your tranny or check to see if you have shimmed one front wheel more than the other or check you are running the same compounds on the front wheels or check the front ride hieht left to right or check you are running the same ride height blocks on the rear.

These are all things that i have done wrong and i see other people people doing wrong

Steve
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:05 AM   #30184
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holy hell its been TOO long since i stepped away from RC. lately ive been feeling the urge to get back into it. the only thing thats remotely ready to run is the 1/12 scale.

i need new tires so i went and bought the new (to me) jaco prism tires thinking they are direct bolt on from before. boy i was wrong. i figured i need flange bearings up front, but i need either a new diff or spacers for the rear. im missing 3mm for both sides due to the offset from the new wheels.

my 1/12th is a rc12l3 with the L4 chassis so the rear pod is still the old design. do i need to buy a new rear pod or i can run spacers ?

thanks
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:22 AM   #30185
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Spacers are fine. I run Parma tires 90% of the time, but on the occasions I use another brand I'll just add or remove spacers to suit.
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:28 AM   #30186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bs6ef View Post
or check you are running the same ride height blocks on the rear.
Glad to see I'm not the only who has done that... last time I did, I was chasing the setup for two race days until I caught it.
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:24 AM   #30187
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Sorry that was a type-o I am Running a 43mm rollout with 100 spur and 29 pinion on 47mm tires I have been testing a 40mm using a 27 Pinion and I have sceen better temps on the motor and better lap times. Everyone one here is running about 38-44mm rollout.

The track is fairly small and I acheve full speed at about the 2/3 mark of the straight. it's actually funny that the fastest guys are runnign the smallest rollout.

I think it's weird but that's just me.

For the Front end. I forgot to mention that I just installed the New Pro-Strut for the GenX onto my 3.2 and the first time out it was good so I don;t think that it is the springs. but I will reset the front end so it is level.

Thanks for the info on the rear pod. I'll check out that sitting level thing.

You guys are great
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:25 PM   #30188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Sorry that was a type-o I am Running a 43mm rollout with 100 spur and 29 pinion on 47mm tires I have been testing a 40mm using a 27 Pinion and I have sceen better temps on the motor and better lap times. Everyone one here is running about 38-44mm rollout.

The track is fairly small and I acheve full speed at about the 2/3 mark of the straight. it's actually funny that the fastest guys are runnign the smallest rollout.

I think it's weird but that's just me.

For the Front end. I forgot to mention that I just installed the New Pro-Strut for the GenX onto my 3.2 and the first time out it was good so I don;t think that it is the springs. but I will reset the front end so it is level.

Thanks for the info on the rear pod. I'll check out that sitting level thing.

You guys are great
One thing the other guys didn't mention is to check your steering end points. In other words, make sure the car turns equal diameter circles both right and left
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Old 01-05-2009, 01:01 PM   #30189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
That Mugen is one cool looking car, double deck old school style!!!

I'm going through my 12L4 since I shelfed it who knows how long ago and want to reroute the wires. Does anyone have a picture or 2 of a good clean t-bar specific installation? I'm running brushed for now (Novak GTS, 4mm gold plugs, 16g wire).

Also, I read a post a few days ago about running the positive wire from the battery to the motor first and having the jumper going to the ESC rather than the way I've usually done it with the jumper going to the battery....? I'm having a little trouble picturing how to do this cleanly, anyone with a pic?

Thanks in advance!!!
this wiring set up will work well in a 12L4. I believe this is also what you are refering to on the jumper wire


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Old 01-05-2009, 01:49 PM   #30190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
this wiring set up will work well in a 12L4. I believe this is also what you are refering to on the jumper wire


That is a nice, neat package. Well done.
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Old 01-05-2009, 02:52 PM   #30191
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what body do you guys find to be most durable. Im still new to the class and im tired of buying a new body every 3 weeks. If i run the parma .030 thick body, will i loose performance anywhere else
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Old 01-05-2009, 02:59 PM   #30192
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what body do you guys find to be most durable. Im still new to the class and im tired of buying a new body every 3 weeks. If i run the parma .030 thick body, will i loose performance anywhere else
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:07 PM   #30193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CREWMAN View Post
what body do you guys find to be most durable. Im still new to the class and im tired of buying a new body every 3 weeks. If i run the parma .030 thick body, will i loose performance anywhere else
I run the regular weight bodies all the time. They're just a little heavier and you shouldn't notice any performance difference at club level.
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:17 PM   #30194
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I run the .030 speed 12 almost all the time, its my favorite.
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:22 PM   #30195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CREWMAN View Post
what body do you guys find to be most durable. Im still new to the class and im tired of buying a new body every 3 weeks. If i run the parma .030 thick body, will i loose performance anywhere else
If you're wearing out a body every 3 weeks, you're not going to lose performance anywhere.

Plus, I've always felt I drive better with a new, fresh body. Kinda that you just did it and don't want to hammer it kinda thing. More careful.

Schmeer a bit of shoe-goo over the wheel well area of the front tires. keeps a new body from cracking out as quickly. Pick up or make a bumper for the car. Saves a lot.
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