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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-14-2001, 05:37 AM   #286
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Have any of you guys tried the new Protoform Speed 8 body yet? What did you think of it?


spongebob: If I remember correctly, the Carpet Knife comes with green and blue compound wheels.
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Old 11-14-2001, 08:30 PM   #287
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is the color coding for foam tires standard in all tires brands? what color coresponds to what shore (hardness/softnes)?
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Old 11-15-2001, 05:34 AM   #288
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stik: I'm pretty sure that there is not color "standard". Corally for example uses color names like Gold and Silver. TRC uses color names like Plaid and Double Purple.
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Old 11-15-2001, 01:08 PM   #289
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Here what I remember and look up on the net. when it said (Standard) that means that it the same across the bored. From TRC, JACO, BSR, CRC, PSE. Corrly maybe a bit different.

You have these tire company TRC, JACO, CORRLY, BSR, PSE, CRC (jaco made tires)

Standard Foam
Yellow (Standard) Softest compound recommended on low traction carpet tracks (rears only).

Green (Standard) Medium compound recommended on medium traction carpet tracks.

Blue (Standard) Medium/hard compound recommended on high traction carpet tracks

Double Blue (Standard) Medium/harder compound, recommended on extremely high traction carpet tracks and on asphalt tracks

Hard-Blue (BSR) but the same as Double Blue

Blue/Orange (Standard) Medium/hard compound and hard compound, recommended on high traction carpet tracks.

Orange (Standard) Hard compound recommended on high traction carpet tracks.

Exotic Foam
Rock Star/Red Dot (PSE) have no idea

Silver Star (PSE Corally) Jaco use to make a Silver it was like a Pink but work better in cold weather

Silver Star/Pink (PSE) have no idea

White (Standard) Medium/soft compound, recommended for medium traction carpet and asphalt tracks. Works well in modified racing.

Gold Star (PSE Corally) Jaco use to make a gold that was in the middle Pink and Purple.

Grey (Standard) Medium compound recommended on medium traction asphalt tracks. Low wear/longer lasting characteristics

Black (Standard) Medium compound recommended for medium traction carpet and asphalt.

Orange/Purple (jaco)

Natural Rubber
Platimun (TRC) I think this is TRC old Silver with a different name

Pink (Standard) Soft compound recommended on low traction asphalt tracks. Low wear/longer lasting characteristics.

Aqua (jaco) I think this is JACO Gold

Magenta (TRC) I think this is TRC old Gold with a different name

Purple (Standard) Medium/hard compound recommended on high traction asphalt tracks. Low wear/ longer lasting characteristics.

Double Purple (TRC, BSR) This is a new one it just the hardest Purples there have.

Red (Standard) Hard compound recommended on high traction asphalt tracks. Low wear/longer lasting characteristics.
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Old 11-15-2001, 02:59 PM   #290
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i have a quick question about servo mounting (this is on a rev. 3 but i dont think it makes a differnce.. anyway...)

since the servo output gear is not dead center, thus its offset. anyway the question is, should the servo saver be mounted so both links are equal, or so its straight up, and the links are un-equal in lenth? thanks!
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Old 11-15-2001, 07:02 PM   #291
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straight up or as close to straight up as you can get it to start. Then see if the car turns equal radius in both directions. If it turns tighter in one direction than the other, recenter the servo leaning away from the direction it turns better and readjust the turnbuckles. (If it turns better to the right, lean the saver a little toward the left side of the car at neutral)

IF your radio has individual end point adjsutments, jsut set it straight up and use the epa to get equal turn radius in both directions.

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Old 11-16-2001, 04:47 AM   #292
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sounds good (i have a m8 so i should be set) however would the degree that its turning while it is still in motion going to be different?
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Old 11-16-2001, 08:44 AM   #293
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
sounds good (i have a m8 so i should be set) however would the degree that its turning while it is still in motion going to be different?
I'm not sure what you're asking here... If you've got the M8, just zero out the sub trim and regular trim, attach the arm as close to dead vertical as you can, then use the sub trim to get it perfectly vertical. Then adjust the tie-rods for zero toe. Trim the car to go straight, then use the EPA to adjust for equal turning radius in both directions at very low speed. Then you'll be set.

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Old 11-16-2001, 12:16 PM   #294
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stormperson.....I simply redrilled the servo mounting holes so the servo and output shaft was centered. If you have the time and a steady hand, this will sort out the problem you have. Good luck.

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Old 11-16-2001, 01:32 PM   #295
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i actually drilled the original holes in it to begin with since the rev. 3 doesnt have them, dont ask me why, but they dont. but would this maybe mess up the center of gravity with the car, and affect the tweak in a negative way? (having the servo offset?) thanks!
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Old 11-16-2001, 02:01 PM   #296
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stormperson.......no and no. Balance, maybe(if only by a bit) but tweak and cg, no.

Many cars like the SM dont have holes for the servo because of different sizing of servos. Is it going to be a regular or micro servo? And if a micro servo, who'se? Because the dimensions are all slightly different. Some assembly may be required.

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Old 11-19-2001, 06:04 AM   #297
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stormperson: I'm positive that you want to mount your servo so that the output shaft is centerd between the front wheels.

The instructions that came with my kit say "The off-set of the servo should be to the passenger side of the chassis." With this in mind, I aligned the servo with the output shaft right down the middle of the main chassis. I think that it is important to have equal length turn buckles used for adjusting toe.

BTW, I didn't bother using the aluminum servo mounting blocks, since the servo was basically flush with the chassis when using the blocks. I decided to just shoo goo the servo to the chassis.
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Old 11-19-2001, 11:13 AM   #298
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Larry, you run that car yet ??
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Old 11-20-2001, 09:47 AM   #299
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Default RC12 Set up

I write from italy and as new on 1/12 world,

anyone have a good setup for linoleum surface ? NO ADDITIVE

motor 12t whit 6 cell.

Thank
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Old 11-20-2001, 11:27 AM   #300
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Taz_s - that is a awesome list of foam info, thanks for that.
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