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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-16-2008, 11:34 AM   #29341
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Originally Posted by flatspunout View Post
New to 1/12th, previous rubber tire TC experience and 1/10th oval (pavement converted buggy and pancar) in the late 80's/early 90's... thought I was getting into a "driver's class" but after reading pages upon pages of posts in this thread it seems more like I have stumbled into a "mathematician's class" I do have an actual question but first I think I would like to hear someone say that it is ok to run pretrued tires without knowing my rollout, run the stock diff and shock, and just learn to drive the car without worrying myself to death over a .5 mm ride height adjustment!

And the actual question is: Are the "Gurney flaps" on my Protoform Speed
12b worth mounting? Will they have a noticeable effect and will they become track debris the first time I get upside down? I don't think I have ever seen them in a picture and the PF website stock photo doesn't show them either...I'm not positive I would have them mounted correctly even if I did decide to use them. Thanks for any input!

-rocky b
Hey Rocky, dont get caught up in the technical stuff right off. Allmost every 1/12 car has componets that are more than capable of doing the job, worry about upgrades and nit-picking stuff once you've got the basic driving down. The only things to worry about is ride height(as the inspector said that is imporant) and keeping the tires even(rotated and trued) before each run. Now as to your ? on carpet I have'nt really needed the gurney flap but it is very helpfull on asphalt for anything faster than a 17.5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi Tyler, new car looks sweet! It actually looks similar to a car that I have been working on myself over the last couple of months. I noticed that the chassis, between the 2 t-bar holes, has had holes countersunk into it. I'm assuming that is to clear the screw heads on the t-bar pivots. On my car, I had the material underneath the the t-bar removed so the hole assembly sits lower into the chassis (reducing the roll centre I think!). To get the stiffness back, the cross brace extends forwards from the rear pivot to the front pivot and then onto a alu' mounting block for the shock and roll over mast. The cross brace is bolted in place in 5 positions so hopefully retains the overall stiffness even though a fair amount of material is missing from the centre of the chassis! I also had to place spacers between the pivots and the crossbrace so that the top part of the pivots clear the brace. After all that, I then machined some standoffs to the correct height and bolted them onto the chassis. The whole back end now sits really low. I also have a new top plate and crossbrace being made at the moment (fwww.fibrelyte.co.uk) which also uses a single damper tube or associated shock. There is also a new crossbrace that goes with the new top plate. Let us know how your new cars goes mate and I'll do the same! Cheers, Chris.
Sounds cool post some pics and track results when you can, I love to see the level of interest and inovation in 1/12 right now

Your DB12R is looking cool fav0re, that color looks like peach on my monitor what color is it?
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Old 09-16-2008, 12:45 PM   #29342
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It does look like peach in the picture. It really is "burnt orange" in person. Dark orange is the only theme not played out yet.
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Old 09-16-2008, 05:03 PM   #29343
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[QUOTE=chris moore;4844909]Hey Rocky, dont get caught up in the technical stuff right off. Allmost every 1/12 car has componets that are more than capable of doing the job, worry about upgrades and nit-picking stuff once you've got the basic driving down. The only things to worry about is ride height(as the inspector said that is imporant) and keeping the tires even(rotated and trued) before each run. Now as to your ? on carpet I have'nt really needed the gurney flap but it is very helpfull on asphalt for anything faster than a 17.5.


Jeez Chris you are everywhere around here! Thanks for the input, I will be running 19T brushed on asphalt so I believe I will install the flaps...are they mounted flat as an extension of the rear of the body or should I leave a "wicker bill" on the trailing edge when I cut them out? I wish I could find a pic of them installed so if anybody has one feel free to post up. Also ride height...what is a good starting point for asphalt and which set of axle eccentrics should I use to get that ride height (12L4)? So many questions!!
Thanks!

-rocky b
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:21 PM   #29344
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Default Minimum weight???

Can someone tell me what the minimum weight is for 1/12 scale? I thought it was 792 grams but ROAR says 880g (I thought that was a misprint from last year) and IFMAR says 865g.

I suppose a better question is what do all you "experts" think it should be?
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:25 PM   #29345
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Can someone tell me what the minimum weight is for 1/12 scale? I thought it was 792 grams but ROAR says 880g (I thought that was a misprint from last year) and IFMAR says 865g.

I suppose a better question is what do all you "experts" think it should be?
jim - its an error: 1/12 forum

althought i think the IFMAR 865 weight makes more sense for 4c + brushless
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:30 PM   #29346
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jim - its an error: 1/12 forum

althought i think the IFMAR 865 weight makes more sense for 4c + brushless
So then why was 360 enforcing the 880g spec? That's what Timmay was complaining about.
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:31 PM   #29347
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jim - its an error: 1/12 forum

althought i think the IFMAR 865 weight makes more sense for 4c + brushless
795 makes sense for BL and LiPo.
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:35 PM   #29348
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So then why was 360 enforcing the 880g spec? That's what Timmay was complaining about.
cause the rulebook is wrong. i'll link this post to the 360 rc speedway thread
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Old 09-17-2008, 08:53 PM   #29349
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[QUOTE=flatspunout;4845751]
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Hey Rocky, dont get caught up in the technical stuff right off. Allmost every 1/12 car has componets that are more than capable of doing the job, worry about upgrades and nit-picking stuff once you've got the basic driving down. The only things to worry about is ride height(as the inspector said that is imporant) and keeping the tires even(rotated and trued) before each run. Now as to your ? on carpet I have'nt really needed the gurney flap but it is very helpfull on asphalt for anything faster than a 17.5.


Jeez Chris you are everywhere around here! Thanks for the input, I will be running 19T brushed on asphalt so I believe I will install the flaps...are they mounted flat as an extension of the rear of the body or should I leave a "wicker bill" on the trailing edge when I cut them out? I wish I could find a pic of them installed so if anybody has one feel free to post up. Also ride height...what is a good starting point for asphalt and which set of axle eccentrics should I use to get that ride height (12L4)? So many questions!!
Thanks!

-rocky b
On the flap I usually just shoogoo it on using the sm crooked end to attach to the body. I'll try and find a pic to show you what I'm saying. As far as the ride height I like 3.5 to 4mm, but I've run as high as 5mm if the surface is rough or wavy. Cannot say for sure on the eccentrics becaus it'll depend on what ride height you go with and the starting width of the tires. Keep in mind that on asphalt you normally see more tire wear and thus have to change the eccentrics more offten than on carpet to keep the ride height the same. I like my eccentrics from IRS(I think) as thay are in .05mm increments.
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Old 09-17-2008, 09:07 PM   #29350
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Ok could'nt find a pic so this will have to do, no laughing at the artwork
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-flap.jpg  
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Old 09-17-2008, 10:25 PM   #29351
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Smile Stock Brushed vs 17.5 Brushless?

Hey guys, I figured this would be the forum to ask on....I run Stock in a 12L4 with NiMhs. Going to a fairly large race and they are now allowing 17.5 Brushless and LiPo's in this class. I was fairly fast last year with the Stock Brushed motor and the NiMh's but was curious as to how comparable the two would be against each other. Just don't want to get my a## handed to me....

Thanks...
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Old 09-17-2008, 10:27 PM   #29352
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Ok could'nt find a pic so this will have to do, no laughing at the artwork
Laugh??? Why? That's pretty much exactly what my car looks like...right down to the paint job.
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Old 09-17-2008, 11:23 PM   #29353
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Quick question what does everyone use the measure the toe on their 12th scale?
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Old 09-17-2008, 11:39 PM   #29354
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Quick question what does everyone use the measure the toe on their 12th scale?
eyeball
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Old 09-18-2008, 01:57 AM   #29355
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Originally Posted by FIVE 7 View Post
Hey guys, I figured this would be the forum to ask on....I run Stock in a 12L4 with NiMhs. Going to a fairly large race and they are now allowing 17.5 Brushless and LiPo's in this class. I was fairly fast last year with the Stock Brushed motor and the NiMh's but was curious as to how comparable the two would be against each other. Just don't want to get my a## handed to me....

Thanks...
It would depend on what lipo they are allowing. If 7.4v lipos are legal then your car will have so much less horsepower you should be able to win while the other drivers are spinning out

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Quick question what does everyone use the measure the toe on their 12th scale?
12" calipers. measure the back then the front. You have to get used to taking up the slack in the steering equally front to back
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