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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-08-2008, 10:54 AM   #28441
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It appears the receiver was bad, good excuse to buy a current radio.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post
Did you check your battery connectors? Might have loosened one when you became one with the wall.
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:35 AM   #28442
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Default What to go for??

I am looking to going into 1/12th scale racing inn the uk and was wondering what is the best path to take when it comes to cars I have been looking at the cyclone 12 and new associated pro and cones of each or any other goods cars around?

Cheers
#
James
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:20 AM   #28443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesalex View Post
I am looking to going into 1/12th scale racing inn the uk and was wondering what is the best path to take when it comes to cars I have been looking at the cyclone 12 and new associated pro and cones of each or any other goods cars around?

Cheers
#
James
Hi James

I'm a UK racer and have found that the most popular type of cars are the T-Bar style, these cars include in no particular order;

Corally SP12X (i drive this)
Cyclone C12
Associated rc12l4 (the new associated is a link car)
CRC T-Force

The Link cars are

CRC GenX
Associated rc12r5 (not yet released)
BMI.

Guys please correct me if i am wrong but T-Bar car work best on low grip carpet tracks.

If you phone Wim from Action Model Centre on 01803 211007 he specializes in 12th scale and has every part for every car you could ever want.

If you are quite new to racing i would probably stay clear of the Corally SP12X as it seems to be quite a fragile car in comparison to the C12 and RC12L4. My opinion is go to your local track and have a chat to the guys there and see which cars they run then i would go for the same, as they will be able to help you out on setup etc.

hope this helps

steve
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:17 AM   #28444
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actually the BMI is more of a combination of link and t-bar, because it uses fiberglass plates, as the links, rather than actual ones, or springs.
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:51 PM   #28445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bs6ef View Post
Hi James

I'm a UK racer and have found that the most popular type of cars are the T-Bar style, these cars include in no particular order;

Corally SP12X (i drive this)
Cyclone C12
Associated rc12l4 (the new associated is a link car)
CRC T-Force

The Link cars are

CRC GenX
Associated rc12r5 (not yet released)
BMI.

Guys please correct me if i am wrong but T-Bar car work best on low grip carpet tracks.

If you phone Wim from Action Model Centre on 01803 211007 he specializes in 12th scale and has every part for every car you could ever want.

If you are quite new to racing i would probably stay clear of the Corally SP12X as it seems to be quite a fragile car in comparison to the C12 and RC12L4. My opinion is go to your local track and have a chat to the guys there and see which cars they run then i would go for the same, as they will be able to help you out on setup etc.

hope this helps

steve
The new Associated RC12R5 gives you the option of running links or T bar. I also heard that it uses all metric fasteners except for the rear axle and hubs.
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:55 PM   #28446
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The t-bar option is not standard with the kit though and has to be purchased seperately. It is likely the front axles are standard as well or they will have a hard time with bearings for the industry standard front wheels.
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:52 PM   #28447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesalex View Post
I am looking to going into 1/12th scale racing inn the uk and was wondering what is the best path to take when it comes to cars I have been looking at the cyclone 12 and new associated pro and cones of each or any other goods cars around?

Cheers
#
James

BMI for the car, support and service.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:33 PM   #28448
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Default I've also been looking for those wheel/hub plates . . .

I've also been looking for those wheel/hub plates . . . someone said they were once made by Trinity.

The little plates that fit between the bolt head and the wheel center on the rear axle of the Parma wheels . . .

Anyone make these still . . ?
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:11 PM   #28449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
I've also been looking for those wheel/hub plates . . . someone said they were once made by Trinity.

The little plates that fit between the bolt head and the wheel center on the rear axle of the Parma wheels . . .

Anyone make these still . . ?
Trinity was the only source for those that I know of. I ordered some of them a while back but the website has changed again and now I can't find them. I am planning on producing them as an OD Racing Product. I'll post up here when that happens. If you see me at All Speed remind me and I'll cut loose a set of the Trinity ones for you
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:05 PM   #28450
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Ahh, so this is you . . . Layman said they were OD pieces but some others thought Trinity. Sorry I missed you on Tuesday.

Jeff

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Trinity was the only source for those that I know of. I ordered some of them a while back but the website has changed again and now I can't find them. I am planning on producing them as an OD Racing Product. I'll post up here when that happens. If you see me at All Speed remind me and I'll cut loose a set of the Trinity ones for you
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:35 AM   #28451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
Ahh, so this is you . . . Layman said they were OD pieces but some others thought Trinity. Sorry I missed you on Tuesday.

Jeff
All you missed was me slamming the boards I loaned Jonathan a car and he won the race. Layman was fast with his OD12 but missed his set up for the main although he was super fast all night. See you next time

I'll save those wheel washers for you.
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:12 AM   #28452
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Hi,

I'm going to order a Hot Bodies C12 this week, with some spares, servo, packs,... but which spares are important? I know the front wheel shafts and T-bars are must haves for this car.
But my main question is: which tires (Jaco) are best for modified racing on indoor medium bite carpet? For 19T racing, Purple-Grey is good, some people also said yellow is very good for the rear. Or has anyone a sort of document about 12th scale tires?
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:36 AM   #28453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potloodslijper View Post
Hi,

I'm going to order a Hot Bodies C12 this week, with some spares, servo, packs,... but which spares are important? I know the front wheel shafts and T-bars are must haves for this car.
But my main question is: which tires (Jaco) are best for modified racing on indoor medium bite carpet? For 19T racing, Purple-Grey is good, some people also said yellow is very good for the rear. Or has anyone a sort of document about 12th scale tires?
Check with the local fast guys at the track you'll be running at and see what they're running then buy those. Easiest and cheapest way to do it. That way you don't end up buying one of everything and have a bunch of not-so-useful tires taking up space and money in your pitbox.
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:14 PM   #28454
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enthusiastic noob reply,

On our short tight medium grip local track guys are running Parma pxxx(edit-purple) fronts and white/grey rears. But they're also shaving/truing the crap out of them. Jack the Gripper is the sauce of choice.

I haven't broken very much in my 1st month of 12th scale (RC12L4) except bodies, a lower control arm, an .063 t-bar and a servo saver.

I have noticed the Associated front springs start to sag after a couple of weeks so I have a bunch of those.

Ballcups for the tie rods seem to enlarge after many hard slams into the wall as do the pivot balls. Not sure if it's pivot balls or control arms, probably a bit of both. Also the bearings supplied with the RC12L4 kit are pretty bad. A "guy" at the track recommended the ceramics from rc4less.com and they are miles better and resonably priced.

I don't know what the Hot Bodies kit comes with but I got the Ti fr axles and screw kit from Lunsford.

I'm now monitoring my diff rings and balls. I was thinking I would break them in with some moly assembly lube from Red Line, get some nice smooth grooves worn in the rings. Seems to be working well but I'm sure many will pooh pooh this idea. That being said the belville washer on the thrust cone seems to be losing some of it's spring making it difficult to adjust.

The stock shock seems to be a weak point so I got the body/cap upgrade from CRC, seems to work very well. Also plenty of CRC front end shims are a must for the noob without the budget for a tire truer/budget to blast new tires within mm's of their usable life.

That's about it for me really, except for a bad rx from my old 2PL, perfect upgrade opportunity . . .



Quote:
Originally Posted by potloodslijper View Post
Hi,

I'm going to order a Hot Bodies C12 this week, with some spares, servo, packs,... but which spares are important? I know the front wheel shafts and T-bars are must haves for this car.
But my main question is: which tires (Jaco) are best for modified racing on indoor medium bite carpet? For 19T racing, Purple-Grey is good, some people also said yellow is very good for the rear. Or has anyone a sort of document about 12th scale tires?

Last edited by boscoj; 04-12-2008 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 04-11-2008, 10:44 PM   #28455
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Jeff-
I don't think you saw any Parma Pink fronts, they don't make them. I used Magenta fronts last race and they were almost too much but manageable. Grey/Purple works well with over 1/2 sauce on the fronts I know everyone is pretty hot on the Jacos right now (they are great tires), but with the new compounds from Parma, and the straightest and lightest wheels available, the Parmas are hard to beat!
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