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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-24-2007, 03:07 PM   #26401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpczx6 View Post
dominick
theres nothing like old rolled up firehose and Discplow blades to make a track.

ooooohhhhhh the joys of hitting the Disc with a 1/12 mod running a hot 22 turn motor (yes back then 22 turns where the hot motors in mod) the good old days
Now I see why Yang and the others call you grandpa.
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Old 07-24-2007, 03:10 PM   #26402
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Now I see why Yang and the others call you grandpa.

Carlos don't make me get my cane I'm to old to chase you to hit you with it

When you and Paul going to come up and run:confused??????

and don't forget its Grandpa Fast lol

I going to the BTH race this weekend. pack your stuff and come race.
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:47 PM   #26403
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
To answer the Corally diff nut coming undone question from the previous page, put a little drop of super glue on the thread, let it dry and then do the nut up on the thread. The glue will make the nut a bit tighter and should n't come undone again, unless you want it to, of course!

Cheers, Chris.
Thank you! I was starting to think I am the only one with the corally.
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:13 AM   #26404
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tpczx6,

Is that Flipper in your avatar?
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:20 AM   #26405
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Hey guys, I am leaning towards the Corally SP12x (US edition), whats a good base setup for the cars? We are running the whole track, not oval, we are running on carpet. Any 4 cell batts, 27t fixed timming motors, any gearing. Thanks guys.
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:25 AM   #26406
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Here's my asphalt ritual:

Paragon soak for 15 mins. don't wipe it off, then apply Coppertone SPF50 sunscreen, let it soak for another 15 mins. Wipe off thoroughly, then enjoy the grip.......

Thanks for the tire additive advice, as I plan to race 1/12th scale at 301 Raceway for the Region 2 Championship towards the end of August. For those who have not seen this track google it...its one of the best on-road tracks...period.

One question. Are you saying...(i) immediately after applying the paragon you add the coppertone or (ii) apply paragon, wait 15minutes...then apply coppertone and wait another 15minutes?

When you apply the coppertone, glob it on? or apply nominal coverage?

I've never done this before and want to make sure I get it right.
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:36 AM   #26407
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Originally Posted by portyansky View Post
Hey guys, I am leaning towards the Corally SP12x (US edition), whats a good base setup for the cars? We are running the whole track, not oval, we are running on carpet. Any 4 cell batts, 27t fixed timming motors, any gearing. Thanks guys.
I don't know anything about the setup yet, but for a Stock 27T Motor you should ask around the track and find out what people are running (probably a Trinity C027), and for batts I would go with either the IB4200 (from your favorite matcher, ie. SMC, Team Checkpoint, etc) OR I would get the EP4200 which Trinity carries
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:49 AM   #26408
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Thanks for the tire additive advice, as I plan to race 1/12th scale at 301 Raceway for the Region 2 Championship towards the end of August. For those who have not seen this track google it...its one of the best on-road tracks...period.

One question. Are you saying...(i) immediately after applying the paragon you add the coppertone or (ii) apply paragon, wait 15minutes...then apply coppertone and wait another 15minutes?

When you apply the coppertone, glob it on? or apply nominal coverage?

I've never done this before and want to make sure I get it right.

Hey Carl,

Put the Paragon on and let it sit, I've even gone as far as to put on surgical gloves and rub it in to the tire. After letting the Paragon soak for 15 mins. then apply an even coating of sunscreen. I put on enough so the tire begins to look grey, not a big white blob, just an even coat. You're basically just using the sunscreen to keep the Paragon from evaporating.
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Old 07-25-2007, 09:05 AM   #26409
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P2, when you want to make another trip to Dallas? You can get some more carpet time in for Vegas this way. Let me know.
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Old 07-25-2007, 09:46 AM   #26410
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I don't know anything about the setup yet, but for a Stock 27T Motor you should ask around the track and find out what people are running (probably a Trinity C027), and for batts I would go with either the IB4200 (from your favorite matcher, ie. SMC, Team Checkpoint, etc) OR I would get the EP4200 which Trinity carries
This is a new class our local club is starting for the upcomming indoor season. Most people will be running the Generation X or the Associated 1/12. But I realy like the Corally.
As for batteries, MaxAmps is for me!
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:56 PM   #26411
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Originally Posted by portyansky View Post
Hey guys, I am leaning towards the Corally SP12x (US edition), whats a good base setup for the cars? We are running the whole track, not oval, we are running on carpet. Any 4 cell batts, 27t fixed timming motors, any gearing. Thanks guys.
AE or Corally front end?
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Old 07-25-2007, 01:19 PM   #26412
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Originally Posted by portyansky View Post
This is a new class our local club is starting for the upcomming indoor season. Most people will be running the Generation X or the Associated 1/12. But I realy like the Corally.
As for batteries, MaxAmps is for me!
Cool, Hope you have fun, 12th scale has taken off at SIR, when I first started going there 12th scale was hardly ever run, now it seems like everyone is running one. I took a look at one of the guys SP12X and the new front end they have is super easy to adjust, eventhough I don't have one I would suggest at least giving the Corally front end a try, especially since you are new to 12th scale and arent use to the AE front end (that being said I will probably get blindsided by someone telling me I am an idiot and since I don't own one, and havent run in a National A Main, I have no buisness even suggesting anything. Right Fred)
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Old 07-25-2007, 02:08 PM   #26413
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AE or Corally front end?
It will be the Corally kit, so I am assuming the Corally front end. Red alum arms
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Old 07-25-2007, 03:03 PM   #26414
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It will be the Corally kit, so I am assuming the Corally front end. Red alum arms
Sorry, can't really help, I run the AE front end.
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Old 07-25-2007, 03:06 PM   #26415
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Cool, Hope you have fun, 12th scale has taken off at SIR, when I first started going there 12th scale was hardly ever run, now it seems like everyone is running one. I took a look at one of the guys SP12X and the new front end they have is super easy to adjust, eventhough I don't have one I would suggest at least giving the Corally front end a try, especially since you are new to 12th scale and arent use to the AE front end (that being said I will probably get blindsided by someone telling me I am an idiot and since I don't own one, and havent run in a National A Main, I have no buisness even suggesting anything. Right Fred)
Well sort of, but I'll not be that rude!! Suffice to say that everyone in the UK (except one) runs the AE front end, and we've all had a try with the Corally one. Oh, and David Spashett won the worlds with the AE front end, and all the Corally Team that stuck with the Corally front end didn't do very well at the European Champs, and... But you're getting the message now, aren't you!
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