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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-05-2007, 11:25 AM   #26101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Here's a few of he BL installations I've done.

If you have a GTB you have to remove the fan and heatsink. I replace the heatsink with a .030" aluminum plate. The GTB 4 cell fits fine, it has a .063" plate for a heat sink. LRP fits fine, just don't use the LRP heat sink.

On the L4 pictured the body had to be mounted on the high side to clear the heatsink.
cool pics. just what i was afer. thanks man.
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:47 AM   #26102
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Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
man, rich man. you should have kept the lrp. it is much smoother esc for 1/12
I don't have a GTB. I invested heavenly in the LRP stock with one blown Sphere, one sphere back from warranty replacement ( that I am trying to get rid of due to not want anymore LRP junk), and one that was ran at regionals that still in the 12l4 and has not been used since along with a 3 star motor back from warranty replacement as well. I am not as rich as you with a BMW and that big mansion in Plano. Hell you probably live close to a superstar than I do.
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:54 AM   #26103
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Originally Posted by Big B View Post
I have heard that XRay is going to be releasing a 1/12th scale, it will be showcased at the Novak race
actually it's going to be at vegas in september the novak isn't till january. boy it's good to get that out been holding on to the since march.
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Old 07-05-2007, 12:01 PM   #26104
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The novak race is officially called the US Touring car Championsips .... which means there is no 12th scale class. I would have to agree with nash that it will prob vegas.

Anyone have any pics of the xray 12th scale ?
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Old 07-05-2007, 02:38 PM   #26105
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
looking at getting a BL ESC for the 12th car. thinking of getting a GTB and removing the fan and huge heatsink and putting a plate on it. this way i could convert it back if ever needed to run 4-6 cells in a larger 1/10 car.

anyone tried both in a 12th car? any difference?
GTB4 really better for 4 cells in a 12th car?
I haven't ran the new novak stuff but I did have a first gen lrp. I thought it worked pretty good. If Keoni (kmr) comes down this friday I'll ask him what his thoughts are on the gtb I think he has both (4 cell and 6 cell), I know 4 sure he has the 4 cell ver.

E
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:45 PM   #26106
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Anyone have any pics of the xray 12th scale ?
Pictures, what? I thought it was a rumor.
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:50 PM   #26107
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Originally Posted by EricF View Post
I haven't ran the new novak stuff but I did have a first gen lrp. I thought it worked pretty good. If Keoni (kmr) comes down this friday I'll ask him what his thoughts are on the gtb I think he has both (4 cell and 6 cell), I know 4 sure he has the 4 cell ver.

E
Eric, I have been running my gtb in my pancar 1/10 scale since Snowbirds with out any problems at all. I have both 4-6 cell versions both are great! I have seen a few LRP's burn up so Novak for me only right now.


Raymond
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Old 07-05-2007, 07:18 PM   #26108
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No pics of the XRay 12th scale yet, I will look around at the ROAR Nats and see if any of the XRay guys has one (doubt it)
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:14 PM   #26109
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IT WILL BE DOPE. LOL. DO U KNO ANY GOOD BODIES FOR THE crc 3.1.
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:52 PM   #26110
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Eric, I have been running my gtb in my pancar 1/10 scale since Snowbirds with out any problems at all. I have both 4-6 cell versions both are great! I have seen a few LRP's burn up so Novak for me only right now.
Raymond
that's cool. I think later this summer I'm going to pick up a new 1/12 (bmi-db12r) and the novak gtb4 cell with the 13.5 (stock) and run that this fall.

If I like it I'll most likely also pick up a 6 cell gtb with the 10.5 (19t) and run that in my sedan.

But we'll see. I still kind of waiting to see how the whole BL motor thing is going to plato for standard motor sizes to replace/ equal stock and 19t. I know has their offers in but lrp says their motor is similar to a 23t w.t.f. Why can't they come out w/ something in the same semi establish ballpark??

E
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Old 07-05-2007, 09:56 PM   #26111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF View Post
I haven't ran the new novak stuff but I did have a first gen lrp. I thought it worked pretty good. If Keoni (kmr) comes down this friday I'll ask him what his thoughts are on the gtb I think he has both (4 cell and 6 cell), I know 4 sure he has the 4 cell ver.

E
Eric,

I have been running the GTB 4cell and 13.5 in my 1/12th scale and the Normal GTB in sedan with no issues for months. The 13.5 is very similar to stock 27t but it doesn’t have as much drag as a brushed motor. I personally like running it at CH because it frees up more time in between rounds to work on my cars and I don’t have to worry about cutting arms Just get one! You will not regret it!

FYI- No racing this week…all my stuff is being shipped up to Seattle for the Nats. Ill let Humpty and Raymond beat-up on each this week…Raymond I heard you broke 10.0s at CH…That’s fricken fast bro! See ya in a couple weeks.

Keoni
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:17 PM   #26112
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Pardon me for asking, but is the 13.5 from Novak, ROAR legal for racing in a stock class? Just wondering about it.
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:21 PM   #26113
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Pardon me for asking, but is the 13.5 from Novak, ROAR legal for racing in a stock class? Just wondering about it.
Not yet..
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:29 PM   #26114
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Keoni, thanks man new HyperDrive Pro3 1/12 is sweet!!! Hope to bump that up this week lol.

Raymond
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:50 PM   #26115
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Originally Posted by Carpetracer92 View Post
IT WILL BE DOPE. LOL. DO U KNO ANY GOOD BODIES FOR THE crc 3.1.
For Willis Hobbies you might want to use a Parma Speed 8. The light wieght version will work, but it will get destroyed within a few impacts. I have not tried the HD version, but for stock motor racing you will need a low drag body and the HD version is ment for high downforce and the regular version is really low drag. The Protoform Speed 12 is alot less stable, and has very high downforce, the light wieght version has less down force and drag, but lacks stability that the Parma Speed 8 has. You should go for the Parma Speed 8, the regular one.
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