R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-29-2007, 09:08 PM   #25606
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
I didn't say it wasn't a good car, I said,

"I haven't seen a DB12R on the track but would suspect that it shouldn't work well on very loose tracks, due to not enough weight on the rear end. I'm not saying it's not a good car, I just haven't seen one in real life. Would someone like to chime in. On a super high bite surface it might be quite good."

I wasn't talking smack about the car, I was just my honest opinion. Since I've had experience with the Yokomo car I was just answering ttso's question and tring to help out. I did ask for some real hands-on experience to chime in on the DB12R's performance.

Sorry if I offended anyone
no offense taken bro.i didnt mean it to come off that way.i wanted to stress the fact of the far rearward battery position because that was one of the biggest things i was proud of.all the link style cars have the batteries very far forward due to the whole link setup.i have always ran my batts slammed to the back on my T bar car and made it a point not to change that with the new design.the car does work extremely well on low bite dusty tracks.i feel that the thinner flex plates are more suitable because it removes some of the steering and makes it easier to drive but when i tested i used the thicker ones and adjusted the car with them.end result was an aggressive car that was fast but may be hard for some to drive.for this reason i am going to have the 2 thicknesses available.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 09:13 PM   #25607
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Why do I have to be Metro!?! You suck Carlos!
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 09:15 PM   #25608
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
Oh yeah, look at the sig P2 has..... Trinity racer!
Now look at my sig.....something major just dropped off

CarlosG, this affects you too
__________________
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 09:17 PM   #25609
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Hee he hee, yeah Beotch. I gunna lap your a$$ when I come down there Carlos! Hopeless Extraordinary B-mainer. (H.E.B.)
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0

Last edited by David Galdo; 05-29-2007 at 09:29 PM.
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 09:27 PM   #25610
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

Whatever David, it don't bother me.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 09:29 PM   #25611
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

, chin up punk! I am sure you will hand it to me... asphalt is not my gig. Come to think of it, I don't know that anyone has run an FF on asphalt.... I will try to make it down there on the 9th.
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 09:36 PM   #25612
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

It's not you. Thanks though. I think it will be a good race if I can actually stop shaking from being nervous and quit making stupid mistakes.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 09:54 PM   #25613
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
As you know, my motor sponsor went out of business. Due to my results at the Texas St Champs, Mike Dumas contacted me and offered a deal.
Man, Duma's beotch did not get me a deal.
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 09:56 PM   #25614
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
Man, Duma's beotch did not get me a deal.
If his beotch didn't hack you on the first turn....you would of finished higher

You have PM
__________________
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 10:01 PM   #25615
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
Man, Duma's beotch did not get me a deal.
I've gone from Metro to Beotch.... great.
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 10:18 PM   #25616
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

I can assure you all, there is already a beotch in the townhouse, it is his dog Miya... a mini bull terrier. I will have multiple locks and sensors on my bedroom door.
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 10:27 PM   #25617
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
I didn't say it wasn't a good car, I said,

"I haven't seen a DB12R on the track but would suspect that it shouldn't work well on very loose tracks, due to not enough weight on the rear end. I'm not saying it's not a good car, I just haven't seen one in real life. Would someone like to chime in. On a super high bite surface it might be quite good."

I wasn't talking smack about the car, I was just my honest opinion. Since I've had experience with the Yokomo car I was just answering ttso's question and tring to help out. I did ask for some real hands-on experience to chime in on the DB12R's performance.

Sorry if I offended anyone
In the rear most position the battery is in the same relative location front to back on the DB12R as on the DB12. This is just a hair futher back than on a RC12L4. You can slide the battery about 8mm forward if you want to but I can't imagine why anyone would do that.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2007, 11:32 PM   #25618
Tech Master
 
Big B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,154
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Can someone explain how to setup castor, and what the different terms mean. I am a TC racer making the move to 1/12th and I have never heard some of the terms like reactive castor.
__________________
Traxxas Slash 4x4, Team Checkpoint TC-1030 Charger and Power Supply, Team Checkpoint Lipo Balancer
Big B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2007, 05:50 AM   #25619
Tech Elite
 
RCSteve93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Can someone explain how to setup castor, and what the different terms mean. I am a TC racer making the move to 1/12th and I have never heard some of the terms like reactive castor.
Reactive castor means that castor changes as the wheel compresses relative to the wheel.
__________________
rm -rf /windows
RCSteve93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2007, 05:53 AM   #25620
Tech Master
 
losi guy's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,258
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to losi guy
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Can someone explain how to setup castor, and what the different terms mean. I am a TC racer making the move to 1/12th and I have never heard some of the terms like reactive castor.
It reduces caster at turn in and increases at exit, it can cause tire scrub and slow you down in a turn if not setup right.
__________________
Spektrum | Avid | DE Racing | Tekno
losi guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:31 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0