R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-06-2003, 07:01 PM   #2521
Tech Elite
 
J.Gonzalez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: connecticut
Posts: 2,409
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default yokomo chassis

Quote:
Originally posted by coloradoyokomo
hey, Here in colorado, A guy wants to start making yokomo style 1/12 scale chassis. Pretty much anything you want. longer wheel base, shorter wheel base, thicker, anything. If interested post a reply.
I would be very interested in getting a thicker and stiffer chassis...something around the thickness of a trinity switchblade chassis like around 3mm thick.
J.Gonzalez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2003, 07:35 PM   #2522
Tech Regular
 
fasterdanu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: the bat cave
Posts: 428
Default


Last edited by fasterdanu; 03-07-2003 at 01:36 AM.
fasterdanu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 12:45 AM   #2523
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: derbyshire, UK
Posts: 82
Default firmer tyres

hi,
i was walking around the pits last national, and was finding that all the top guys tyres, spash and phil davies especially, had alot firmer tyres than me, even though they are the same compound, they told me that this was due to overuse.
how can i re-harden them, they said something about some people using water, but phil said that he just leaves them alone to firm up.
how do i use this water method, as i have a very important national coming up and want my car to perform at its best.
i have already tried leaving them alone, but they are only a bit firmer, what should i do?
thanks
matt
rice98w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 10:14 AM   #2524
Tech Master
 
Bigtbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Time to put down the Golf clubs and poker chips and GO RACIN!
Posts: 1,219
Send a message via AIM to Bigtbone
Can anyone explain how the old school is better than the new front end?
Bigtbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 10:31 AM   #2525
Tech Master
 
Scrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Plover, WI
Posts: 1,508
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Go to www.teamspeedmerchant.com and read what they have to say about it. Supposedly it doesn't go out of tweak as easy and is better for carpet and smooth tracks.
Scrad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 11:47 AM   #2526
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arizona
Posts: 41
Default

Are the alumn. front braces necessary to help keep the top of the arm from flexing?

Anyone know?
ErikF-Fike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 04:08 PM   #2527
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,053
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

can you use the cool blue braces on a AE 12L3 front end?
__________________
Pro Spec America/Apex RC - Team ORCA - Awesomatix USA - Roche RC USA - AVID - Sweep - Protoform - Pro-One RC - Slapmaster Tools - Hebiki Design Works - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers - Timezone Hobbies
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 04:09 PM   #2528
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
can you use the cool blue braces on a AE 12L3 front end?
No...they are made specifically for the old style front end.
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 05:47 PM   #2529
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 321
Default

Hey All

So Associated makes an old skool front end that fits the the Newer frames??? Cause I have an old 12L all Fiberglass model and the bolt pattern for the front end is way different...


Bradley J. Gotori
bgotori@hotmail.com
bgotori is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 06:49 PM   #2530
Tech Adept
 
kiyano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tokyo,Japan
Posts: 151
Default Re: yokomo chassis

Quote:
Originally posted by senna555
I would be very interested in getting a thicker and stiffer chassis...something around the thickness of a trinity switchblade chassis like around 3mm thick.
me too
I have interestd in colored carbon fiber.
Can you post sample of them?
kiyano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 09:09 PM   #2531
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

the braces for the old front end help it maintain the correct camber and more importantly look really cool. and they help you keep from breaking arms. Since i have put them on (about a year ago) i have only broken one or two arms, and i run every weekend.

rice- while some factory guys say its the same compound, it might not be (they might be "special" compound of a certain compound of tire). Also when you clean off the tire with motor spray or whatever you use it normally softens up the tire some. however if you need harder tires, just go to a harder compound, since its much easier, and you can do it more conistanly, you dont have to worry about it being done the same each time.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2003, 11:02 PM   #2532
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by bgotori
So Associated makes an old skool front end that fits the the Newer frames??? Cause I have an old 12L all Fiberglass model and the bolt pattern for the front end is way different...
Brad,

Are you sure that what you have is actually a 12L? If it's a 12e or 12i then it will use an even older front end... As far as I know all the 12L series used the same bolt pattern on the front, whether the "old skool" or the new dynamic strut.

T
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2003, 07:21 AM   #2533
Tech Elite
 
stefan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Bavaria, Germany
Posts: 3,273
Send a message via AIM to stefan
Default

Guys,

I know this should be in "buy-sell and trade" but I thought here are the right people.
So, if anybody is looking for a 12thscale setup, check it out:

My 12L3 on Ebay
stefan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 08:54 AM   #2534
Tech Elite
 
Taz_S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Rosa CA
Posts: 2,551
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Hey Check out the coverage of the 1:12 Scale Euro's.

http://www.team-orion.ch/live/results-cars.asp?id=140
Hey Check out the coverage of the 1:12 Scale Euro's.

http://www.team-orion.ch/live/results-cars.asp?id=140
__________________
Jake's Performance Hobbies http://www.jphracing.com/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/757500284356171 Facebook Group for Pro 10
Taz_S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 01:03 PM   #2535
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 321
Default

Hey Trips

I'm not really sure now??? The guy I bought it from (3yrs ago) said it was a 12L, and all the track I get parts from back East just say here, with the parts... The parts aren't Associated I believe, because they have No lable tag, just plastic bag... All the guys have to dig around in the back to get them...

So the Newer old skool front end will fit the 12L3 front end??? If so that front end is a 12L old skool front end???


Thanks

Bradley J. Gotori
bgotori@hotmail.com
bgotori is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:22 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0