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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-26-2006, 01:22 AM   #20191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Having said that, do you think that a certain brand tube works better than others? If so, what would be the reasoning for that? If neither of 'em leak, then arent all tubes made equal?

Thanks for all the input.

BTW: I think i'm going to skip tomorrows race and go to Daytona on Sunday :-(. I just cant see spending a grip on gas both days.
The factors that make the differences in tubes are the female tubes diameter. The quantity, width and depth of the grooves in the "piston" or male part of the tube. Finally, the materials the tubes are made of are a contributing factor to the damping charactersitics. These factors will influence your choices for tube goop as two different tube desings will have significantly different damping characteristics even with the same goo inside them.

Jason, are you guys doing flat or angled servo mounting on your cars?
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Old 08-26-2006, 03:41 AM   #20192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerDriver
I just got a new-to-me used RC12L3 and I'm curious what the body is. I see no identification under/in back. Help me out please.
Bimmer,

99% sure that is a Protoform P35. I would have to see it in person to be 100% sure. Body was made mid to late 90's. Compared to the current crop of race bodies that body would produce medium downforce. Probably good for 1/12th stock. If you're running a mod motor I would get a Protoform speed 12.

Steve
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Old 08-26-2006, 05:08 AM   #20193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Looks like the Nissan gtp
http://rctech.net/forum/showpost.php...ostcount=20081
I posted mine a few pages back.
thats a nice looking paint job there, i might have to paint my next one like that, easy to do and looks cool
you don't have any copyright on the design do you
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:35 AM   #20194
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Default D-tubes

Concerning the tube discussion...
Between my dad & I, we currently own 4 twelves & I have noticed a considerable size difference between the SM's vs. the CRC's tubes mainly
in diameter. Both smooth, but still slightly different.
Just an observation.
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Old 08-26-2006, 10:06 AM   #20195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eforer
The factors that make the differences in tubes are the female tubes diameter. The quantity, width and depth of the grooves in the "piston" or male part of the tube. Finally, the materials the tubes are made of are a contributing factor to the damping charactersitics. These factors will influence your choices for tube goop as two different tube desings will have significantly different damping characteristics even with the same goo inside them.

Jason, are you guys doing flat or angled servo mounting on your cars?
i personally only get to run asphalt so i always throw the servo on the angled mounts.alot of the carpet guys running my kit have been running them flat on the chassis.i ran mine flat at the snowbirds.it felt real good but my shoo goo job was lacking and my servo popped off in all my runs. i should practice my shoo goo techniques so i can finish a race. for my main i glopped it on heavy and it stayed.only problem was taking the servo off the chassis after the birds.it was like trying to take gum out of a kids hair.
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:27 AM   #20196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i personally only get to run asphalt so i always throw the servo on the angled mounts.alot of the carpet guys running my kit have been running them flat on the chassis.i ran mine flat at the snowbirds.it felt real good but my shoo goo job was lacking and my servo popped off in all my runs. i should practice my shoo goo techniques so i can finish a race. for my main i glopped it on heavy and it stayed.only problem was taking the servo off the chassis after the birds.it was like trying to take gum out of a kids hair.
Here's mine and it doesn't come loose, no shoo goo needed

great car

I have a disc and damper verison of the BMI
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Last edited by radio_car_racer; 08-27-2006 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 08-27-2006, 01:01 PM   #20197
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very cool.
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Old 08-27-2006, 03:59 PM   #20198
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What are the white rings around the diff? Is it some sort of dust shield?
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Old 08-27-2006, 04:22 PM   #20199
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those are dust shields for the diff
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Old 08-27-2006, 04:28 PM   #20200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
those are dust shields for the diff
Who makes them?
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Old 08-27-2006, 04:57 PM   #20201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Who makes them?
i believe they are Kimbrough...


http://kimbrough-products.com/

look in the accessories page...
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Old 08-27-2006, 05:40 PM   #20202
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I recommend still shoo goo'ing a bead around the edges of the servo. I have had those ears break at very inopportune times - including the A-main at a national level event on the 1st lap after getting hit in the 1st turn pile-up. Made for some interesting steering for 8 minutes.

After that particular incident I still use the tabs but also shoo goo around the case of the servo to the chassis.

Another method is to use double-sided tape to fasten the servo where you want it on the chassis and then do a bead of shoo-goo around the edge of the servo. It is a lot easier to remove the servo since all you do it peel the bead off and then release the servo from the double-sided tape.

-Rich

Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
Here's mine and it doesn't come loose, no shoo goo needed
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Old 08-27-2006, 09:26 PM   #20203
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Default 1/12th set-up summary sheet

Howdy,

I do not seem to see anyone that has done this so I compliled a single page summary sheet regarding set-up info for 1/12th that I have gathered over time from talking to folks and also from threads such as this. I keep this in my pit box and reference it during practice/race days.

I do not take credit for the info, I just compiled it all in a "cheat sheet" that I hope others (especially newbies) will find useful in enjoying 1/12th scale and getting their cars dialed in.

Oh, most of the info is oriented towards link cars with side springs since I drive a Rev.3, but the same principles apply to T-bar cars.

Enjoy and let me know if there is any incorrect info or info you feel I should add.

(I have one also for touring cars, but I have conflicting info regarding roll-centers so I am not releasing that at this time).

-Rich
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Old 08-27-2006, 09:41 PM   #20204
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RichChang > That's fantastic, just what i've been looking for. Will be very helpful
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:26 PM   #20205
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Good info thanks for doing the "cheat sheet"!
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