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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-26-2006, 10:46 PM   #19561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedxl
Hey guys we are going to have to put a rain check on mod! about 6 oval guys are running 12 scale, Mike bean , Mike Boylan, Billy Bruce, and a couple others! The clincher is we are allowed to run the ultra bird adjustable timing motor's.

So Adrian, Jason, Marcos, Potter! we need to make some ponies with them Locked timing motors!!
I always pack the ponies
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Old 07-27-2006, 02:26 AM   #19562
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hi All,

Is there any way/mod that we can run 12L4 without using battery TAPE ?

-Kai
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Old 07-27-2006, 02:48 AM   #19563
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Originally Posted by kyang
hi All,

Is there any way/mod that we can run 12L4 without using battery TAPE ?

-Kai
There have been many different battery retainer systems over the years, from velcro to carbon fiber straps. Many of these really do work and some just create more issues than they seem to solve. I have always been a tape person, it's pretty easy and hands down the lightest.

Embrace the tape =)
Nick
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Old 07-27-2006, 04:26 AM   #19564
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Would this fit a 12L4 as well?

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...oducts_id=8489
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Old 07-27-2006, 04:34 AM   #19565
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the IRS adjusters are the only way to go.they have a bunch of adjustments inbetween the standard 1-4.plus they are a better fit.
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Old 07-27-2006, 06:46 AM   #19566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kwik
There have been many different battery retainer systems over the years, from velcro to carbon fiber straps. Many of these really do work and some just create more issues than they seem to solve. I have always been a tape person, it's pretty easy and hands down the lightest.

Embrace the tape =)
Nick
have you used the rubber o-ring type battery fixing stay, i think it works togeter with upright pins front and back of the battery? and how good does this system work as the tape method for me is a little like micro surgery
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Old 07-27-2006, 06:54 AM   #19567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b
have you used the rubber o-ring type battery fixing stay, i think it works togeter with upright pins front and back of the battery? and how good does this system work as the tape method for me is a little like micro surgery

Even on my CRC 3.2r I use a very narrow piece of tape along with the O-ring.

Tape is all in the mind. Just get a routine down that is easy and you'll find its not so bad after awhile. My buddy cuts the tape and pulls the battery out after every run and retapes. Thats his ritual. I use the same piece of tape for 3 or 4 runs.

The number one thing is to make sure the tape is VERY TAUGHT before putting it down.

For what iots worth-I usually pre-cut 6 strips of battery tape at the start of a race day-that way if I am in a rush or stick the tape into itself-at least the tapes ready to go!

Sorry so much blab about tape!!
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Old 07-27-2006, 07:05 AM   #19568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Even on my CRC 3.2r I use a very narrow piece of tape along with the O-ring.

Tape is all in the mind. Just get a routine down that is easy and you'll find its not so bad after awhile. My buddy cuts the tape and pulls the battery out after every run and retapes. Thats his ritual. I use the same piece of tape for 3 or 4 runs.

The number one thing is to make sure the tape is VERY TAUGHT before putting it down.

For what iots worth-I usually pre-cut 6 strips of battery tape at the start of a race day-that way if I am in a rush or stick the tape into itself-at least the tapes ready to go!

Sorry so much blab about tape!!
thanks for the vote of confidence
i'll try the tape forthe batteries and see how it goes,
just wondering with the L3's 6 cell layout, is it better to have the 4 cells to the back or the front? it's my first 1/12th scale and i hav'nt even run the car to test it out yet
cheers
joe
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Old 07-27-2006, 07:10 AM   #19569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b
thanks for the vote of confidence
i'll try the tape forthe batteries and see how it goes,
just wondering with the L3's 6 cell layout, is it better to have the 4 cells to the back or the front? it's my first 1/12th scale and i hav'nt even run the car to test it out yet
cheers
joe

Joe-put them in the back for a couple reasons. #1 its where most people would run them so your set-ups can be closer to what you read here and #2-probably the most important-youll need the extra room on the chassis for the electronics!! Batteries forward leaves very little room for electronics.

Ray
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Old 07-27-2006, 07:25 AM   #19570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
A 4.5 would be nuttier than elephant turds.
.

You mean: nuttier than squirrel shit

I thought Orr used a 4* at the worlds...
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Old 07-27-2006, 07:46 AM   #19571
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what degree of toe is the norm in these cars?
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Old 07-27-2006, 08:10 AM   #19572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
what is a good starting setup for a 12L4 for high grip asphalt. the track is very fast and flowing, european style horsepower track. need info on body, tires and such as i am new to 12th scale but not onroad.

???
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Old 07-27-2006, 09:12 AM   #19573
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Taping is not so bad... I'm not so much a fan of the o-ring, it tends to put unnecessary stress on the chassis. The chassis also has to be wider to accomidate the attaching lugs for the o-ring allowing the sides to drag going around tight or highspeed corners.

Tape has been used for years. If you cannot get the black battery tape (Speed Merchant No. smr5024), standard fiberglass filiment tape from your local hardware store will work. Like Ray said, pull the tape tight before sticking it. This is what will help keep the tape from breaking in hard impacts. People that leave slack in the tape have the tape rip in crashes due to the rapid acceleration/deceleration of the batteries moving around on the chassis.
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Old 07-27-2006, 09:55 AM   #19574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70
Taping is not so bad... I'm not so much a fan of the o-ring, it tends to put unnecessary stress on the chassis. The chassis also has to be wider to accomidate the attaching lugs for the o-ring allowing the sides to drag going around tight or highspeed corners.

Tape has been used for years. If you cannot get the black battery tape (Speed Merchant No. smr5024), standard fiberglass filiment tape from your local hardware store will work. Like Ray said, pull the tape tight before sticking it. This is what will help keep the tape from breaking in hard impacts. People that leave slack in the tape have the tape rip in crashes due to the rapid acceleration/deceleration of the batteries moving around on the chassis.
we have a blue battery tape just for this purpose but its only 1/2 inch wide, but most guys use it in tc but i guess it'll work better with the 2x2 saddle layout with less weight to push against the tape.
(sorry if i ask too many questions, just dont want to have any misshaps due to missing something ) which has happened in nitro with disaster the result
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Old 07-27-2006, 10:13 AM   #19575
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Tape is for packages!!
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