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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-17-2001, 11:42 AM   #181
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Ty: Do you feel that there would be that much difference in stiffness between the FRP and Graphite chassis? I guess I was thinking that the chassis area is so small that the difference wouldn't be significant.

Yeah, I knew about the bloddy knife, but I don't really much care for the red stuff. Plus, it would be nice to be successful racing a car that others aren't using, hence the Corally.
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Old 10-17-2001, 11:46 AM   #182
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There will be a big difference in flex from GRP to graphite. Stick with the SP12G3. I know you want to be competitive and the GRP version won't cut it. Check out Corallyusa.com If it is still the case, Corally cars can only use Corally wheels, not the standard TRC or Jaco 3 hole wheels.
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Old 10-17-2001, 11:51 AM   #183
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Hey, I just got a 12L3 and need some basic setup to start out. I have raced touring for years and now that we are going to have a close indoor track I figured I would try it out. We ae going to be running 4 cell stock and I will most likely run a GM3. What would be a good starting point for gearing??? I have heard that Purple fronts and White or Gray rears is a good starting point. Also what front springs, etc?
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Old 10-17-2001, 11:55 AM   #184
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Try this CIVIC91.


Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
Fire-The RC12L3 has adiffrent chassis tha the LC. Is is a few 1/1000ths thinner and has more cut outs for a bit more flex. I think the L3 was the 1st RC12 with the 3 bolt stealth rear axle too. The RC12L3 is the best asphalt car you can buy. Carpet is a diffrent story. CRC and Trinity cars a a bit better on Carpet. The L3 has too much traction on carpet. To win on carpet you have to reduce traction and stiffen the car.

There are a few things you can to to a RC12 to make it competitive on carpet:

1. Run a RC12LC Chassis. It is stiffer and will free the car up for more efficiency and speed.

2. Run the .075 T-Bar and use all 3 screw positions to affix the T-Bar to the motor plate. This will loosen up the rear once again for more efficiency and speed

3. This sounds like a step backwards but you will go faster on carpet if you ditch the reactive front end and install the old fashioned fixed front blocks fron the RC12L w/.022 springs. Make sure you get the springs for the fixed blocks as the reactive springs are too long to fit properly. Put a 1mm spacer under the front blocks.

4. Use a bit of Trinity Purple stuff on the damper plates and king pins.

5. Use the AE green spring on the center shock. Fill the shock with 30wt oil.

6. Use TRC Purple (F) and Grey (R) tires. I have no idea why but Jaco tires seem to gave too much traction on carpet.

7. Use the #4 rear axle cam to get the rear axle as low as possible.

8. Cut your tires so the ride height is 1mm higher than the minimum. After qualifying you should be right on the money.

9. The light weight Protoform P-35 is the only body to run.

10. Practice, Practice, Practice!
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Old 10-17-2001, 06:56 PM   #185
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Hey all......couple 1/12 motor questions....I'm running 4 cell stock, track size approx. 50' by 100' medium to high traction, not a really tight track.2000mah.What motor/brush/spring combo do ya'll suggest.A long time ago i saw where people would use a "1/12 cut brush" cutting the brush face in half, is this technique still used???or full brush face???Any help would be great.
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Old 10-18-2001, 02:15 AM   #186
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
The RC12L3 is the best asphalt car you can buy. Carpet is a diffrent story. CRC and Trinity cars a a bit better on Carpet. The L3 has too much traction on carpet. To win on carpet you have to reduce traction and stiffen the car.
...So since i have a Trinity 'Blade and you're sayin to stiffen up the car for carpet to be with Trinity and CRC, if i were to race on a asphalt track (Prepped Parking lot) i should actually loosen my car up to be about as flexable as the L3s out there?

Since my blade has a AE center shock i suppose i could take spring rates and such from you L3 guys that know about it. Right now i have simply ran my car at a practice day and got it used nearly brand new because it had only been run on carpet, how i love carpet cars, immaculate condition Too bad i run on asphalt . Right now i dont know what the side dampers are filled with, or what the TBar thickness is or the fluid inside the center shock. Such a sad thing. Oh well, I guess i can start from where i am then. Right now, the center spring is silver, oh and all 3 screws holding on the T bar on the motorpod are intact (should i take out the center one?)... I know that much! Geze...

And its surprising how well i can just think of something at quarter after one in the morning i didnt think about when i was doing the solder job or any time in between about my motor. Uhm, stupid me, either way Doesnt P2ks have little surface mount caps already on it, so as to not require the use of those 3 that are soldered on with the diode on other motors without the premounted capacitors? Argh, that sucks, either that or i really cant think but think i can and am all wrong, bleh. Please tell me if i REALLY need those 3 caps that i soldered on with the diode ..Thanks ofta bed'

Last edited by JB; 10-18-2001 at 02:19 AM.
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Old 10-19-2001, 02:11 PM   #187
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i am thinking about going 12th scale, since the last outdoor race of the season is tommorow. anyway, i am probably going to get a speedmerchant rev 3, since one guy who races at my track won the carpet nats in 2000 with one, and a few other guys run them, so i figure it would be easier for parts and set up. i just have a few Q's:

-from what i have seen in 12th scale results, EVERYONE runs a p-35, just wondering, why? (or is it the dodge stratus, dont question the authority rule?)

-traction compound, what to use? i am pretty sure the track is going to be rather large, with high ceilings (its in the process of being built, but from what i have been told its 100x50ft), so i dont think ventalation should be a problem, so should i get paragon? and which one of theirs? and if not which traction compound, also what should i clean the tires with/ how should i prep them?

-electronics: c2/tc2 or quantom? i have heard that the quantoms have been blowing up for no reason, have they fixed that? also should a reedy 10 turn ti be a safe bet? i am currently running a few of em for tc, so i need to know if i should change motors.

-also will a hudy set up system for tc's work on a 1/12th scale?

-tire truer, do i need one, if i am to race competitivly in the A main (which i feel i can do driving skill wise with some practice, since i am low A main, high B main right now in tc, and i am only getting better each week, since i went back to electric last month)

thanks! any other advice would be much appreacated!

thanks!
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Old 10-19-2001, 03:44 PM   #188
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Storm,

- Yeah, it's the "Dodge Stratus" principle at play. Actually, I believe it's the only body that Protoform still produces in 12th scale. If you want to be different, Hot Bodies makes a few 12th scale bodies.

- I haven't run pan cars in a while, but the last time I did, I used Permatex Orange Clean. It's a smooth cleaner (don't use GoJo Orange, it has pumice granules in it!), which worked well for me, and smelled Orange-ey. A lot better than that Winter Green or other toxic smelling compounds!

- I've always used Novak, so I'd be a bit biased... I haven't tried a C2/TC2 yet, but I'm happy with my Cyclone TC. The 10-turn might be a bit hot for 8 min. I think most guys I hear run 12-13, but you should ask around at the track to see what people are running. I'm sure no one keeps secrets, right?

- I doubt the Hudy setup will work because of the difference in wheels. If the SpeedMerchant uses the Associated front end (most 12th scalers seem to), RaceTech makes some pretty good setup tools and accessories for this front end.

- If you can afford it, sure! If anything, you can use a truer to round out the edges of the tire. In my experience, I found that it helped prevent chunking. Of course, if others at the track already have one, I'm sure they'd be willing to let you use it once in a while. If you find yourself using it a lot, it's time to buy one...
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Old 10-19-2001, 04:21 PM   #189
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i have no clue which front end it uses. however, are the front wheels bolted like the rears, or do they have an axil? i would assume though that i could fit the hudy gauges on the front, then cominsate for the high in the rear, or would this not work? (ie, are the thickness of the front axles on a 12th scale car not the same as on a tc?)

and if not, should i just use a rpm camber guage? or what the are part #'s for the racetech stuff? (or a website)

ya, i was a little concerned with a 10 turn and lasting the whole 8 minutes, since i can barely last 5 in my tc3, and this is with SMH's and sanyo 3k's. but a ti wont have too much torque or have a bad powerband for 12th scale?

also about the wheels chunking, i have seen these things that go on the side of the wheel, dots or something, do they snap into place, or are they glued (i would think if they were glued that it would be hard to secure the wheel on, since there arent any holes for drivers) and if i were to get a tire truer, would i need to worry about changing the camber angle in the rear (ie coning them) or doing anything funky like that? and will the cobra lathe work as well as the hudy exellent, what are the differences?

thanks for answering my questions, i know i have alot, but i want to get it right the first time around
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Old 10-20-2001, 11:11 PM   #190
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The cars are 2wd so theyre gonna just be riding on bearings on an axle, and the axle is a smaller diameter than TC axles.

I'll let the others answer the other questions.
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Old 10-22-2001, 07:21 AM   #191
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stormperson: I just picked up a SpeedMerchant Rev.3 on Saturday. I haven't run it yet, and I have limited experience racing 1/12th.

The front end is not the Associated front end. I've heard it referred to as the "old style" front. The front wheels are held on using "E" clips, and camber is adjusted using shims under the front ends, not using camber links like on touring cars.

When I last raced 1/12th I used the Andy's Mercedes Sauber C9 body. There are about 4 or 5 bodies available.

Had you condisered the Novak Atom?


Here's a link to the SpeedMerchant Rev.3 page: http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/cars/rev3/rev3.html
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Old 10-22-2001, 08:00 AM   #192
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Geppetto,
I recommend you pick up some threaded front axles. It will be much easier than the e-clip front axles. Good luck with the car.
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Old 10-22-2001, 08:55 AM   #193
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Ty: Thanks for the tip. I actually had a set of the threaded front axles made by Calandra, but I sold them along with my Carpet Knife.
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Old 10-22-2001, 09:07 AM   #194
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Geppetto - The "old skool" front end that they refer to is the old Associated front end. The new Associated "strut" suspension should fit this car with no problem, although if the team prefers this setup, I guess that's their perogative - after all, this front end was originally designed for the original RC12L. The new associated front end will mount to it. They mentioned on the website that they even use the new front end on occasion.

The thing I never liked about the old front end was that camber was never adjustable. We used to cut slivers of soda cans and wedge them between the chassis and the inside or outside of the arms to adjust camber. With the new front end, you have adjustable camber, caster, and you have the option of dynamic caster. I honestly don't see how the team wouldn't get the car to work everywhere with the new front end, but then again, they get more track time than me...

Storm - Like JB said, there's no way you'll be able to use the Hudy TC setup for the 12th scale. RaceTech is a division of Bolink; follow the link and look up their RaceTech division. There, you'll be able to find both the setup gauge, the threaded axles, and an adjustable caster rod conversion.

If you're looking for a broad power band, you might want to look into a triple. Reedy doesn't make triples at this time, probably because most TC's need the torque provided by a single or double. If you're interested, Fantom makes triple winds with the Ti can.

As for the dots, there used to be a company that made plastic disks that mounted to the inside of the rim. They had a lip which protected the side of the tire. I think the company is long gone. Some people just take round stickers and stick them to the outside of the wheel. Regardless of what you do, you should know that if a dot comes off your car during a ROAR sanctioned race, by ROAR rules, your car will be DQ'd for that heat. Your best bet is to take my advice and round the edges of the tires a bit, believe me, it helps.
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Old 10-22-2001, 02:23 PM   #195
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thank you all for the help and suggestions. as it turns out i will be racing 4 cell stock... which is even better because i dont have to worry about the batts lasting, i have a rather old GM3 laying around, however i ordred a new one, as well as a p2k2.

as far as the front ends are concerned... can or cant i adjust camber? and i did check out the site, and it did have a little thing about how the old front end is better, however i will ask the guys at my track what they recommmend and use.

also bolink's site is down, so i cant find the racetech stuff, however on tower's site, they had a whole gauge thingie for the "new style" front end.

you were saying something about a camber mod, does that just mean i can replace the current top piece with a turnbuckle and 2 ball cups or is it more complicated.

thanks!
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