R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-20-2002, 04:27 PM   #1906
Tech Master
 
theRED5's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Athens,GA
Posts: 1,022
Default

From what I hear, the GP 3300 cells are only larger because they have extra layers of heatshrink on them...I'm not tearing the wrap off mine to find out, though.

I, too, have run both the Proto and Parma Bentley's...I didn't like the Parma because the LHS only had the .020 thickness, the Protoform has and extra Gurney Flap on the rear, in the cutout, that makes it give as much rear DF than the Parma one.
__________________
I [I]AM [/I]the Driver !

Murnan Modified Motors

Mugen MRx4

Rocket Science Fuels

Auto Racing, Mountain climbing, and Bull fighting are the only true sports, all the rest are just games.
theRED5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2002, 04:30 PM   #1907
Tech Addict
 
Skid Marks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: ~ O.G. Style ~
Posts: 535
Default

i believe the cell is actually longer than the 3000. more than just the shrink wrap
Skid Marks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2002, 04:39 PM   #1908
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

theRed5, .020??? Isn't that the lightweight? That's the best!
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2002, 04:47 PM   #1909
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 192
Default 3000 or 3300

I'm planing on going to my first carpet nationals in March in Minn and I need to get some more batt's but I don't know if the 3300's are roar approved yet. I'm going to be running a Carpet Knife 3.1. in stock but, I might run mod that depends on how good my driving gets.
TC racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2002, 04:55 PM   #1910
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

you shouldnt need a wickerbell/guerny flap on a 12th scale on carpet.

for stock try using purple fronts and grey rears, and for mod just switch the greys for whites. i run a rev. 3 and have like 50-60% servo throw and half sauce on the front tires and full rears. you shouldnt push with that set up or scrub too much speed.

as far as which body though, the parma has more downforce i am pretty sure, the protoform has no rear wing.

if you need alot of rear downforce try the new yokomo body that comes with the new 12th scale. speedtech sells them, and the lightweights are slitghly heavier than the parma lightweights. they have a large rear wing and should give you more traction, although for carpet you should be able to adjust the chassis and not rely on downforce, since that just adds drag, and on carpet there is generally plently of grip to be obtained.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2002, 04:59 PM   #1911
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

A thing about the Yok MS1 body though.... Skid told me it won't sit low enough if you use the flat blocks on the front, the body will hit the blocks, that body is pretty much only good for the dynamic front end.
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2002, 08:21 PM   #1912
Tech Addict
 
Skid Marks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: ~ O.G. Style ~
Posts: 535
Default

true, the only way i see that thing fitting is with the dynamic front end and if you remove the front chassis protectors. or if you mill down the body posts
Skid Marks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2002, 05:03 AM   #1913
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

i run a old style front end i have had no problems with it fitting, although i generally run no spacers for the front wheels to decrease ride height.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2002, 10:28 AM   #1914
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

12L3 owners...

4cell chassis is now available. same as the YRX-12 but in black graphite. More than half the cost for the silver chassis alone.
you can order it from RcModel in HK.
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/eshop...xd.asp?id=1814
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2002, 10:35 AM   #1915
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Cool!

I'm going to email my contact in Hong Kong now and buy them all!!!
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2002, 10:41 AM   #1916
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 38
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Anybody ever run on carpet in a place where traction compund isn't allowed. If so what tires worked if any. Also does traction compound mess up the carpet, or is there a traction compound that doesn't leave any marks on the carpet. We have a new track here and they won't allow traction compund because they are worried about the carpet. They don't own the biulding the track is in.
MystRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2002, 10:45 AM   #1917
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Huh?

I have never heard of carpet race that doesn't allow any sauce at all? Geez, if they don't want the lethal Paragon, at least use the TQ crap!

Carpet with no compound, that's crazy!!!
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2002, 12:28 PM   #1918
Tech Regular
 
HYDRAMATIC99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colorado
Posts: 492
Send a message via AIM to HYDRAMATIC99
Default

mystracing, I assume you are talking about the Westminster track. I practiced there yesterday and I seemed to have enough traction with the grey/purple combo.
HYDRAMATIC99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2002, 02:11 PM   #1919
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

thats so stupid to not allow traction compound. It doesnt hurt the carpet that much, and yes it does leave a slight black groove, but if you dont use it much the groove wont get bad, and it wont ruin the carpet.

i would suggest trying whites in the back to add some rear traction to get a higher corner speed, and to make the car easier to drive without having to soften the suspenion alot.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2002, 03:06 PM   #1920
Tech Addict
 
Skid Marks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: ~ O.G. Style ~
Posts: 535
Default

yeah we are switching to TQ traction compound up here. im gonna miss the smell of paragon. i love that stuff. its nasty though. i had a friend spill some on his crouch and it started to burn! hehe it was funny!!!!!
Skid Marks is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:05 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0