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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-19-2006, 06:51 PM   #17431
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There is a really good guide to building a front end on that website.
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 02-19-2006, 07:04 PM   #17432
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
There is a really good guide to building a front end on that website.
Yes, I followed it to the letter on my Rev 4 and was really happy with the results.
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 02-19-2006, 07:11 PM   #17433
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
There is a really good guide to building a front end on that website.
He has a nice motor in that 12th scale too

Contact Us
Team EAM, Our Facebook
Xray | RCAmerica | Hudy | Apex RC | RC Mission | Killer Concepts | AVID | Hobbywing.
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Old 02-19-2006, 07:23 PM   #17434
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Send a message via Yahoo to apexraceway
Default asphalt setup for a CRC 3.2r

Does anyone have a good starting setup for asphalt for this car? Springs?...Dampener Fluid?...Tires?...

Any help would be greatly appreciated


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Old 02-20-2006, 01:35 AM   #17435
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I was racing 1/12th over the weekend, 19t Reedy Quad on Saturday and Reedy 12x1 on Sunday. The car was going soft at about 6 minutes, it was more noticeable in 19t as I then had to basically use full throttle round the whole track to keep momentum up. On Sunday it wasn't quite as noticeable but still lacked punch around the 6 minute mark and my times were about 2 seconds slower for the last few laps. My cells are GP3700 which are about 10 months old now, on Saturday I had 1000ma left in them and on Sunday I had around 600ma left discharging at 20A. So it doesn't seem to be a case of cell capacity but is it just that my cells are worn out now and thats why it's going soft? Motors were not getting hot either, just warm.
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Old 02-20-2006, 07:35 AM   #17436
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Maybe you have 1-2 bad(weak) cells in the pack.
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Old 02-20-2006, 07:44 AM   #17437
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Maybe but it was doing it with all 3 packs, all 3 were bought at the same time.
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Old 02-20-2006, 01:43 PM   #17438
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Just tested one of the packs voltages seem quite even at 6A,

at 1900ma

at 3800ma (peaked at 3850)

Similar story when discharging too at 20A so don't think it's a weak cell, don't know if those figures are good or bad though.

The only other thing is that I first noticed it in my first heat I had a very heavy impact at around the 5 minute mark, a marshall was stood in the middle of the track and I hit his foot at high speed and I noticed it after then but don't know if this is just a coincidence. I skimmed and changed brushes in motor to rule that out and tried different motor, the only other thing I could think of is the speed controller? Or is it just that the cells are old and tired? They are not dumping just going very soft around 5-6 minutes.
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Old 02-20-2006, 03:02 PM   #17439
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what is a good motor and setup to use for a 19t?
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Old 02-20-2006, 03:10 PM   #17440
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Originally Posted by SPC Racer
what is a good motor and setup to use for a 19t?
PM Lutz, He'll give you the hookup
Fantom, BL Racing, Retired
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Old 02-20-2006, 06:35 PM   #17441
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Check this out...Just what you need.


Great resource of info for 1/12 scale setup.
Thanks for the info guys. Mark's site is where I actually stole the idea from. After talking to my local hobby shop guru (http://www.hobby2000gatineau.com), it was suggested that the ball on the center post be shimmed up as mentioned by Scrad.

I think I agree with both Guru Roberto and Scrad. Even if the angle is changed slightly, I just can't see not being able to re-tune using springs. It's my opinion that a few degrees change will not affect the handling of the car. Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

Any ideas on this problem....3 foot of antenna wire!!! I'm thinking of wrapping it tight on the roll over. Any other suggestions? Can't afford another receiver right now.

As I write this, can someone explain the no cutting of the antenna wire? I always beleived that the antenna was tuned via lenght. How can this be since we can change xtals? Does my question make sense?

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Old 02-21-2006, 09:24 PM   #17442
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Default CRC delrin steering blocks

I recently added the CRC delrin steering blocks with axles to my car. Its got axles which are secured with an e-clip on the inside. I can't find anything like them on the crc site. The question is, what size are the nuts to secure the wheel? It's roughly the size of a 4-40 but with finer pitch. Is it metric? I lost a wheel in my last main because the nylon in the nuts that came with them is worn out. I need some new ones!
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Old 02-22-2006, 04:22 AM   #17443
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Unless you rae running on a very large track I would not think that you would need three feet. Mine is at best 14-16 inches. I even cut a couple inches off of the roll over antenna trying to loose a little weight and have had no issues with the signal at all. It is common to coil the receiver wire around the antenna.


The new steering blocks have a little slop in them that you can take up with the threaded titanium axels which will use the standard small nuts. I am not sure what size the ones are that you are needing but your hobbyshop should have them and if not a hardware store would. I highly recomend switching the axels though for the titanium.

I'm not as good as I could be, but I am a much improved version of what I once was.

Last edited by Greg45231; 02-22-2006 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 02-22-2006, 05:59 AM   #17444
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Default Freq's

As I write this, can someone explain the no cutting of the antenna wire? I always beleived that the antenna was tuned via lenght. How can this be since we can change xtals? Does my question make sense?
It has to do with the band of our radios.The 75MHZ/27MHZ thing.Not the particular frequency within the band.Mario.
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Old 02-22-2006, 08:22 AM   #17445
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the small changes in frequency we make using our christals don't affect the ideal lenght of the antenna much (mere millimeters probably). Most antenna's are "in the ballpark" in the lenght.
Normally, you should be able to cut your antenna wire exactly in half (as measured from the print inside the receiver), without much range loss. 1/4 lenght should also work. Be precise, and you should have no problems.
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