Xray T1
#1772
Originally posted by rcfiend
I built the shocks per the instructions............
I built the shocks per the instructions............
A few points on the Serpent shock build;
1. Put the shock shaft into the body, then the O-ring onto the shock shaft before you clamp down the O-ring holder on the bottom. The transisiton between the threaded portion of the shock shaft and the smooth portion is very sharp with the Serpent shafts. If you secure the O-ring in place first and then push the shock shaft past it, the chances are the O-ring will be cut.
2. The edge of the bladder on Serpent shcoks have a lot of moulding flash...cut this out with a pair of sissors before you install.
3. Put the bladder onto the top ballend and run your fingernail into the corner lip of the bladder. You will see that the lip of the bladder is "square" and you will get a good seal on top. Now put the top ballend and bladder over the shock body together....lots of shock oil everywhere! If you put the bladder onto the body first and then the top ballend over the bladder, it is a hit n miss affair as to whether you get a good seal!
4. Tighten the alloy top ring whilst holding down the top ballend into the shock body.
Perfect shocks each time.......I have "never" built a leaking Serpent shock!
#1773
i have had some problem with my xray shocks. they apear to be leaking from the top actually. i have replaced the top seal (did not remove the flashing though), but i still hear a small air popping noise coming out of the top of the shock, and sometimes i see a bubble come through between the plastic part and the metal ring that secures the top of the shock.
#1776
I raced the evo for the first time on carpet with foams today. Raced all last season with the T1. The car was very fast. Everyone wanted to run 19T class so that's what we ran (I was more prepared for stock). I managed to get TQ from the first round and got faster every round after that. I did some minor testing with the eccentic's on the front and found running the arms in the upper position worked best. I asked a friend (he didn't race) to finish dumping my pack after the main to see how he felt about the car ( he wants one but still not sure) and 4 guys (all friends) came running, all wanting to drive my car. It was kinda funny, they were grabbing my radio and stuff. I had to calm them down some, I thought they were going to rip my radio up. LOL Anyway, I liked the way the car felt and will do some more testing next week. I started out running real light with the springs w/swaybars and finally ended up with purple and violet springs and no swaybars. The car was very planted and stable with great steering and the rear stuck good but rotated easy. Oh, the car was over 2oz light with body and P/T.
I'm happy with the outcome of the day.
I'm happy with the outcome of the day.
Last edited by GregH; 09-28-2002 at 08:27 PM.
#1777
Hobbytown Racer :: Awesome!
I too had a great run today on concrete. I started out slow and picked up the pace each round. I can't get over how free the drivetrain is. I got a compliment from a sponsored Schuie driver about how free it is.
I ran the locked diff and it is the ticket boys......it pulled the car like a one-way. I later ran the layshaft one-way tight and I improved my time. The C-Hub kit is awesome....and it had too much steering for at first but I adapted.
I am very pleased with this kit!
I too had a great run today on concrete. I started out slow and picked up the pace each round. I can't get over how free the drivetrain is. I got a compliment from a sponsored Schuie driver about how free it is.
I ran the locked diff and it is the ticket boys......it pulled the car like a one-way. I later ran the layshaft one-way tight and I improved my time. The C-Hub kit is awesome....and it had too much steering for at first but I adapted.
I am very pleased with this kit!
#1779
my car was fine on carpet until i ran mod with it. the car comes down after the straight into the first turn and its bounching up and down like a lowrider. this is the same car that i had tq'd and won with in stock multiple times. as it turns out the chassis flexing so much was causing it to do that. i found this out, after talking to the schui mod drivers who had had this problem last year.
i am running an evo 2 with the stock upper deck, although i do have the normal one, but it doesnt fit on due to the hole required for the servo saver. i am running an extemely stiff suspenion, which worked great in stock, but the car cant handle the high g-loads in mod.
does anyone know of a "factory only" upper deck that xray might make or someone else, that makes the car as stiff as a tc3 or stiffer? since i am losing over half a second to a second a lap on the tc3's since i just cant go fast in fast corners.
i am running an evo 2 with the stock upper deck, although i do have the normal one, but it doesnt fit on due to the hole required for the servo saver. i am running an extemely stiff suspenion, which worked great in stock, but the car cant handle the high g-loads in mod.
does anyone know of a "factory only" upper deck that xray might make or someone else, that makes the car as stiff as a tc3 or stiffer? since i am losing over half a second to a second a lap on the tc3's since i just cant go fast in fast corners.
#1780
hey guys, i ran my evo2 on carpet today, i started with the stock set up and it just felt to soft for the high grip carpet as well as real loose,so i switched to associated purples all around. that seemed to help but I tightened the rear diff and that seemed to help the rear end stick better. Also during the course of the day I managed to tear the lower right front pillow ball out of the arm in a wreck where i hung on the pipe. it was not really stripped out so i reinstalled it and hit the wall again later and managed to knock it slightly loose again, so ill be replacing the arm. sorry for lthe long post but if you guys have suggestions for anyrthing let me know.
#1781
spaz-where do u race?
and i would suggest trying AE whites or yellows all around and also sway bars front and rear.
and i would suggest trying AE whites or yellows all around and also sway bars front and rear.
#1782
TRINITYRACINNUT
Stephen, would you happen to race at Trackside? I was wondering how the crowds are at the new track? I haven't been there in a few years. Are there any X-RAYS running up there? Just thinking about a trip up there , Dave
#1783
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Yes I do race at Trackside Dave! And I am the only one running an xray. everyone looks at me like im nutz. i love the durability, how can ne one say this car is fragile! this thing is more durable then my tc3 by far. Hey dave we are getting big crowds back again and just got brand new carpet Sunday racing will be more fun than the being rushed tuesday nights. I am going to Oktoberfast this weekend and I would liek to meet you so do u think u could stop down on Sunday October 19th?
Thanx alot
Stephen
([email protected])
Thanx alot
Stephen
([email protected])
#1784
Stephen, I'll try to be there on there on the 19th. It all depends on my scheduke. I have found my X-Ray to be able to take more abuse than any other sedan I've owned.
#1785
Dogbone plastic clips
I have some more observations on the C hub conversion.
When running the pivot suspension I was perhaps getting through a set of dogbone plastic C clips once every 3-4 months. Since switching to C hubs I have found the plastic clips break after around 5-6 packs!! Finually got round to seriously looking into this problem tonight.
If you run a front one way and a camber of 1 deg (or less). The cross pin of the dogbone only just makes contact with the edge of the one way cup when the suspension is compressed. I'm pretty sure this is the problem on the car, the edge of the cup is cutting into the plastic clip. I have now used 1mm shim behind the drive cups to extend them out further and the cross pin on the dogbone rest a lot better on the slot.
Hopefully this will cure my problem! I'll keep you guys updated! Has anyone else seen this with the C hubs? If you run more than 1 deg camber the dogbone is pushed further into the drive cups.
When running the pivot suspension I was perhaps getting through a set of dogbone plastic C clips once every 3-4 months. Since switching to C hubs I have found the plastic clips break after around 5-6 packs!! Finually got round to seriously looking into this problem tonight.
If you run a front one way and a camber of 1 deg (or less). The cross pin of the dogbone only just makes contact with the edge of the one way cup when the suspension is compressed. I'm pretty sure this is the problem on the car, the edge of the cup is cutting into the plastic clip. I have now used 1mm shim behind the drive cups to extend them out further and the cross pin on the dogbone rest a lot better on the slot.
Hopefully this will cure my problem! I'll keep you guys updated! Has anyone else seen this with the C hubs? If you run more than 1 deg camber the dogbone is pushed further into the drive cups.