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Old 07-15-2011, 05:16 AM
  #466  
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Originally Posted by MobileSuit
My motor is 4.5T Octa Wind. I will upload a picture ASAP.

Thanks

This is what I'm talking about:




Many Thanks
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Old 07-15-2011, 05:19 AM
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It is a definite part from the outside of can and not rotor.
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Old 07-15-2011, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by olly986
It is a definite part from the outside of can and not rotor.
You're definitely right about not coming from the rotor because as mentioned earlier,it is about the a quarter size of the circumference of motor can.

It fell out from the motor can when I pulled apart so definitely somewhere from within. But where does it go back is the question.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:00 AM
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when you opened the can (shaft side) first did it come from that side or the other (which is the endbell side)

I 'll have to open one of my LRP to check what it can be, except if someone has an answer for you first.
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Old 07-15-2011, 07:22 AM
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It came from the shaft side,not the endbell.

I can't imagine trying to put it back because when I open the motor can,the shim immediately zapped to the rotor. That's another reason why I can't see where it was original from.

Normally I'm quite careful about disasseblimg parts but maybe not this time!
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Old 07-16-2011, 12:16 PM
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Did you remove the rotor to check inside?
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Old 07-16-2011, 03:29 PM
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What is the best temperature to keep 12x 13.5t at so it does not fade
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Old 07-16-2011, 04:55 PM
  #473  
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I had a set up that ran 175-180 and faded badly, when I went down to 150-155 the fade stopped. Was running 1/12th with a Black Diamond V1 on 5, 2 dot insert and 71.5 rollout. Had to go to 4 dot insert, 62 rollout, and open the scoop in my AMR to get there.
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:34 AM
  #474  
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Mobile suit, you need to glue this part at the top, right in the center of the gap, i glue with cyano, without problem.

Here, with 4 dot insert go up to 190+ without fade.

Regards, Luis C.
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by luic
Mobile suit, you need to glue this part at the top, right in the center of the gap, i glue with cyano, without problem.

Here, with 4 dot insert go up to 190+ without fade.

Regards, Luis C.
RedBullFiXX: many thanks again

luic: it seems CA is the magic cure for this,thank you

Still wondering why they have it at first place and it would be good if LRP could update their instruction manual to show this too.

I'm guessing these shims only appear in the Octa Wind version?
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Old 07-17-2011, 02:09 AM
  #476  
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Yes, only in Octa, and basically, to have more magnetic power (over copper), need more iron core, sorry my english is not good, and less for explain technicians.

Regards, Luis C.
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by luic
Yes, only in Octa, and basically, to have more magnetic power (over copper), need more iron core, sorry my english is not good, and less for explain technicians.

Regards, Luis C.
Yes, to agree and elaborate, these shims simply lay on the end of the stator stack. There was probably three of these in the motor, one for each side of the stator stack.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:14 AM
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Default 17.5 Blinky

Is the consensus still a FDR of 4.0 with 4 dot for 17.5 Blinky TC?
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:38 AM
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I bought 2 LRP SXX v1 used recently. I have2 x-12 17.5 motors, one in my RB5 the other in my RT5. I was wondering if someone could help me out with some prfile setup tips for running these on a clay indoor track using ROAR stock rules. Any help isappreciated.
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by swimbikerun
Is the consensus still a FDR of 4.0 with 4 dot for 17.5 Blinky TC?
good question, would love to know the answer to this one...specially regarding timing insert
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