PartTime

iTrader: (10)

Gain Time...thanks for the responce but, I thought it was a rubber tire setup. My bad.

Any body have a good starting setup for 13.5 rubber on carpet? I looked at rc10.com and took all the common parts of the listed rubber setups for a base. And will tweak from there but, would still like to try a setup that sombody says is good right off the bat.

Thanks
DK

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

PartTime, try this one that Ken Pepe used at the Novak race. The bite was high so you might need to make some changes for your track conditions but this does work.

Front
5mm ride ht
1.5 camber
4* caster
toe 0
hex space 0
wheel base spacer 2mm
steering link 2b
bumpsteer 2mm
1 way diff
cam holder a
tension 8
shock 35 wt AE oil
#2 piston
25% rebound
blue spring
no foam in bladder
shock pos. 2b
camber link 3
no shims
fwd mount 1a
fwd shim 2
rwd mount 1a
rwd shim 2
droop 6 on gauge
no roll bar
REAR
5mm ride ht
1.5 camber
0* toe hub
3* total toe
1mm wheel base spacer
diff-set a bit loose
cam holder a
2 tension
shock 35 wt oil
#2 piston
25% rebound
no foam in bladder
silver spring
shock pos. 3b
camberlink 3a
1mm spacer on outer ball
fwd arm mount 2a
1.5 fwd shims
rwd mount 1a
4.5 rwd mount shim
5 droop on gauge
no roll bar
chassis itf top plate itf w/ 4 orings on layshaft (rear) area screws
rp30 or jaco green
use full dope on rear, almost full on front
MAzda 6 body

rosko

kevins setup from cleveland is also really good. my personal opinion the car is slightly harder to drive than most but handles very well on foam tires.

walterhenderson

The tires wear pretty flat. I ran for 3 days on 2 sets cut to race size.

overflow

iTrader: (8)

Ok, new to running sway bars. Aside from just putting them on the car, is there a way to set them up after installing them? For instance they have the set screws, how do you make sure they are evenly set on both sides?

steve eaves

iTrader: (74)

Be sure to diconnect the shocks,when installing and measure side to side to be sure you are the same length,a few pages back there was a good explanation on this

HB Moose

Don't help Overflow. He's fast enough already.

overflow

iTrader: (8)

found it, thanks!

overflow

iTrader: (8)

Far from it lol...
WHAT UP MOOSE!!!!

Arn0

For the ones struggling to get setups, bookmark this page: http://www.petitrc.com/view_news.php?id=7450

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

Overflow, there are a lot of small tricks to getting sway bars to work well. I have seen a lot of cases where they are not done properly and cause some very odd handling.

I always make sure to start with a flat bar, testing and tweaking it on a peice of glass. Then make sure you are starting with even length end links. Last before the real fun starts, make sure the mounting points are free, but not loose.

Now take out the tweak station and disconnect one side of the sway bars. Set the tweak in the car as precisely as possible. Reconnect the bar and recheck tweak. If the bar is right, it will not effect the tweak.
This is where the tuning comes in, since it will take some trial and error to get it to remain untweaked with the sway bar connected if it is not right to start with. I NEVER tweak a car with the sway bars connected the first time I check it.

The ultimate test is on the track. If it steers better to one side with the bar connected, pop one link off one of the sway bars and see if the problem goes away. This is a subtle problem, sometimes not even noticed by a lot of racers. But if you are really getting a lot out of your car and want that last little bit, this should help. If the car steers fine with the bar disconnected, but is better to the left for example with the bar connected, lengthen the link on the right rear, or left front an 1/8-1/4 turn, retest.

Hope that makes sense?

...Jim
W.E.D.

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

I got to drive my new TC5 yesterday for the first time. Thing thing is 100% more responsive than the 007 I had before it. WOW.

Anyway, the car wants to square off the corner instead of going around it. Im thinking it may be the steering links but not to sure. I am 1a with 2mm bumpstop.

Kraig, thanks for the set up. I looked at all the rubber setups I could find and put all the common parts on mine. Stuff like the 2b and 3b shock position, 3 and 3a with 1mm upper link, stuff like that. I have #3 pistons in the car and am really thinking about going to #2 to settle the car down a touch. Its border line too responsive. Iam i correct in thinking it wont be as responsive?

DK

Gain Time

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Arn0. Associated hasnt been updating their own site with the new set up sheets.

Does anyone know if Juho liked the Snowbirds set up better than the one above in this thread?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I would go with the steering linkage change first, back one hole on the inside and out on knuckles. Plus it is a lot easier to do. This should slow down the response of the car, at least it did for me.

I haven't played around with shock oil enough to say what it will do. I will say that the front of my car is very stiff when compared to others running rubber tires and I don't really care for how it feels right now. I will probably change everything on the front and hope that it works.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Definitely go 2B on the steering first. I just ran rubber tire last weekend w/2B, and it was great.

As far as the shocks, I'd say that stiffer will = more responsive. The #3 pistons are gonna make the car pack up more too, which will definitely be responsive. I ran #57 losi pistons (kinda like a #2.5??) with 30wt oil, and i liked my car a lot. This was pretty high bite. Maybe if the bite was lower, I'd like a bigger hole piston.